I have been reading, has anyone been able to find a way to do this job without removing the dash?
A friend wants me to do his, and I do not want to pull the dash to do this, If that is the only way I think I will send him to a shop.

thanks
Doug

 

I think that everyone here would love to know how to do it without pulling the dash.

 

We just done a 97 F-150 about 2 weeks ago, and I'd be safe to say that I believe my dad is a great evaluater, and if there was anyway to find a shortcut,
he usually finds it,,,,,, But there seems to be none on this model. Now as usual when we get one of those we really dislike, we've got another one to do this Friday. REMEMBER,,,,,,, Buy a good quality heater core for these tough ones, no one wants to go back into it a few weeks or months down the road.

 

Thanks! I was hoping that someone had found a secret!!!!

 

Let's try this angle - is there a way to pull the dash that is easiest?

I just watched a buddy of mine at work volunteer himself for a core replacement, and I KNEW what he was in for. I guarantee ya, that thing is still in pieces!

 

On my Bronco II is is a simple remove cover drop the core and replace 1 hour including refilling rad and testing for leaks. That leak turned out to be from a cracked drip rail at the roof, but still an easy cheap job. Ford sucks with their F150 design. I have a 2003 F150 and I plan on taking a different route. Keep the core from rotting in the first place. I plan on a 50K mile anti freeze change out and there after every 36k miles. I also will used some Bars-leak powder after every refil. I have used it on all my vehicles and have never had a heat or leak problem. Good luck, as a helpful hint I have read to put all screws back into the hole you removed them from, so you wont have to guess during re-assembly.

 

ANTI-LEAK junk can block your radiator flow, and should never be used except as an emergency measure on a road trip. If you go there - find a way to clean it out once you get home.

My ethic is to never use it AT ALL!

The cheap seeming way out is the most expensive you can possibly go...

 

Some new cars come with it already installed in the cooling system from the factory. I will admit that not all stop leaks are not equal. I dislike the silver suspensions, and the pellets. But I have never had a problme with the powders. Of course your results may vary, but I dont intend on removing my dash to replace a heater core either.

 

i downloaded instructions on how to get to the heater core without removing the whole dash, but they're on my other computer. i'll try to post it up or send u a PM either tonight or tomorrow. it's still a biatch to get to, but it'll save u a good bit of time

 

Hindsight for me includes not tearing apart everything I see in the dash, but to look for how the factory installed it as a finished piece - which is what they do.

Modular construction is an industry MUST. Assemblies are built on seperate lines, then brought together at the right point on the main line.

In theory - disassembly is the reverse of assembly...

If it is designed to be easy and fast (IE: Cost and Labor Efficient) to install in a factory, the "Principle of Least Action Required" leads me to believe there must be an easy way to reverse the process.

(Or did you think FOMOCO pays people to cuss and bust their knuckles until it finally goes where it is supposed to?)

 

NEEDING A HEATER CORE REPLACEMENT MYSELF...I have asked the same question as I dont want to remove my dash...1998 ford f-150 4x2 4.6l ext.cab.
I was told one guy had located the enclosure under the dash (I think he removed the glove box) and took a dremel tool to the box and cut out a hole big enough to get to the core and remove and replace it. to seal it back aftewards he used the same tape ac techs use to seal AC ducts...ugly yes but who will look under the dash?
I am so tempted to try this fix myself...but I dont recommend it!

 

There is no known way to replace the heater core in a `97 - `03 F-150/Expedition without pulling the dash out far enough to access the heater plenum. The instruction for this procedure (not mine) are available here. http://my.voyager.net/~sscully/F-150...50_Exp_002.doc

Best of luck!

 

Unfortunately, something like that was done by the young man at my work who recently quit.

The heater core is new now - but it does not provide anything like the amount of heat it should because of frankly massive air flow losses due to the hole he cut out of the box. As far as I know - he made no attempt to close the box back up. The salesman he attempted this "REPAIR" for is very, very upset. And I don't blame him. The jury is still out on the A/C, but I fully expect a similar report.

There are some things you should never attempt unless you have made a complete commitment to do the whole entire job exactly right. If this means it takes a lot longer, AND that you have to go to a great deal more trouble - you should DO IT on general principles if for no other reason.

I think I will now have to get involved before this gentleman is truly "taken to the cleaners" over it.

PS: The DEALERSHIP price of this operation IN TENNESSEE (relatively low cost of living area) is roughly $850.00 before taxes.
If you really think about it - what you are attempting is on the close order of a thousand dollars worth of labor. So why cut corners anywhere?

Many thanks to KingRanchMan - I printed out a copy, I think I'm going to need it.

 

As stated before if there is a shortcut that can be taken without screwing anything up, or without screwing the customers opinon of us up, we usually try to find it. THERE IS NONE ON THIS MODEL, unless you want to do one or both of those things i just mentioned. If you think of tackling this yourself, and have never changed a heater core that is this hard to get to, you may seriously want to re-think the issue. How does it compare to other (bad) ones? It isn't ALL that bad we just done our second one on this body style, (1997-2003) last week and we did make better time on the second one, now if you want to practically watch someone lose their mind, drop by and watch someone change one in a late 80's to early 90's model Mustang, Thunderbird, or Lincoln Towncar. Your talking 8-10 hours and PILES of screws with any of those. Oh another good one is around a 90 model Subaru Staion Wagon, my dad still has nightmares over it. LOL Someones got to do it!

 

nvm, a guy above already posted the link to the instructions i have

p.s. a friend of the family who owns a mechanic shop just looked at my heater core yesterday and said he was too unfamiliar with this model to be fixin it (especially conisderin he dont charge us much, so he's not as motivated to do any extra work). but he did call up a ford dealership and told them the problem (i happen to have a pinhole leak in the heater core, which i already knew). they said to fix it (not sure if they would flat out replace it or not, but considering how much cheaper it would be to buy a new one or just fix it myself, i thought the price was absolutely ridiculous) would probably cost about $1200. better off just dedicating the weekend to fixin it yourself, or just one day if ur lucky enough to have a garage, i unfortunately live an apartment now (thanks a lot Katrina...) where ur not supposed to work on vehicles AT ALL, but shhh don't tell em..