Hi:

one of rocker arms stud nut keeps loosening and make that noisy clicking sound.
I tightend it couple of times, still nut comes loose. Was it the nut that need replacing or the stud threads are kinda worn?.

I appreciate if anyone could explain how to solve this problem.

 

My truck had this exact same problem. I fortunately had another truck to pull parts from and could swap the rockers.

I've yet to find a auto parts store that carries the correct size nuts for the rockers. Every place i've went to seems to have a smaller, say 7/16ths size nut. Mine are closer to around 9/16 inner diameter as the nut itself is a 5/8ths.

 

Desperado:
But what does the rocker arm have to do with looseness of the nut, why do I have to replace them. Thanks.

 

If the threads are worn the vibration of the rocker arm can force the nut to loosen. I know it'll happen as it was doing this on my truck before i had to tear into it again.

I can't really make sense of what i said either...i guess i was half asleep when i said it. Fwiw, it might be worth it to just replace the rockers and the nuts all at once.

 

Thanks Desperado for your help.
I guess I have to adjust all valves for better performance.

 

Just wondering if you got the problem fixed, I'm having the same problem. I'm thinking about either using some loc-tite or maybe double nutting them. I'm not sure if the loc-tite can handle the temperature though.

Hopefully someone here can offer another fix. This has to be a common problem.

 

Ya, still have that problem, I djusted the rocker arm nut in a wrong way using the timing mark and other 2 marks I made on the cranckshaft pully (that divided the pully into 3 sectors).
The wrong thing I done is not setting loose rocker arm valve to the TDC.

This afternoon I adjusted all valves correctly, drove the truck 50 miles, I still can hear little valve ticking, I am sure the sound will increase the more I drive the truck.
I think the nut keeps getting loose (wished I measured the threads).
I thought of the double nutting the stud like you said, but I rather get more ideas, replies and hints from the members if I am lucky.
I am plannin on 1500 mile round trip, dont know waht I could do to work this problem out. I am thinking of double nutting seriously.
I appreciate if somone can drop me some guide lines to fix this proble.

 

I double nutted today, reset my valves, drove over 70 miles. Worked great. It runs like a charm. The nuts are 5/16-24 tpi. The original used a 9/16" wrench. The nuts that I bought only use a 1/2" wrench. I tried to buy them at the local parts stores but nobody carried them. I tried Ford. They no longer make them and only had 9 left at almost $2.00 a piece. Hell with that. They gave me the size and thread count and I went to Lowes. Didn't have them, they only had 5/16-18. I had to go to a specialty fastener store and 12 of them were under $1.00.
I measured my pulley using my belt. I wrapped it around and marked it with a marker. I then measured the total, split it in 3 portions at 7 1/4" between each mark. I set my first mark with the #1 cylinder at top dead center. Checked with the distributor rotor. No need to take out the plugs. I set the number 1 intake and exhaust valves. I then rotated the pulley to the next mark and one by one went down the firing order and moved the pulley each time. Double nutted, worked great. Good luck.

 

Good job Steamir, but did you double nut all studs or just the bad one.
Some studs I have with not much threads to hold the double nut.

 

I was tired of dealing with it, so I readjusted and doubled all of them. I backed off the nut and with both hands slowly tightened until the lash was just off from the rocker so that I couldn't lift the rod any longer, then I turned an additional 1/2 to 3/4 turn. Some only let me go 1/2 before bottoming out. I had plenty of thread to put the other nut on. I was concerned that I wouldn't be able to hold the bottom nut while tightening because of the shoulders on the lifters. But I didn't need to. The bottom nut didn't move when I tightened the top nut. Hope you get it figured out.
And by the way, great job on that truck, your gallery is inspirational.

 

I will drive the truck more 120 mile trip to see how loud the noise will go, I will adjust the nuts if I have too.
wait till I post the results. Thanks for your reply.
Hamid.

 

I forgot to mention that one or tow rocker arms has very little oil coming through lifter push rod lube hole, what does that indicate?, anything should done or replaced?.

 

Did you take them out and very that the passage is clear? Blow through them. You should be able to see light through them if you hold up to the light. Hopefully there's nothing wrong with your lifter. Also, I suggest that you check to make sure that they are straight.
If you wait till the nut backs off before fixing it, it may get to a point where that valve is no longer opening or functioning properly. That makes for a very rough engine.

 

Thanks Steamir for your explanation, I drove the truck another 100 Miles after all valve s adjustments everything is ok no valve or rocker arm sound, if it will happen again I will double the nuts.
I will be headed for my 1500 Mile trip the end of November, and I am expecting the rocker arm will come loose, hope that extra nut will do the job.
Hamid.

 

Good luck to you Hamid