hey guys I know you say the primer sealer is really thin and i was wondering what size tip should i use? should i use the 1.4mm tip or the 1.7mm tip? I know for the 2kprimer i used the 1.7mm tip. Please let me know.
thanks,
Jimmy

 

I can make either one work, but you probably will be fine with the 1.4 if your sealer is really thin. What brand & type product are you using. What type of gun ? Do you have a good air regulator for the gun ?

 

yes the air regulator works great. Also it is a HVLP gun. I have both a 1.4mm nozzel and a 1.7mm nozzel. The primer sealer is from napa it is "synthol" synthetic enamel my Martin senour. Grey quickseal non sanding primer. I dont know the mix ratio but they gave me a quart of the primer a quart of medium evaporating reducer what is the mixing ratio for this stuff. i was told between the both of the it would be 1/2 gal. so my gues would be mix them 1:1. does that sound right?
thanks,
Jimmy

 

I'd use the 1.4 for a sealer. If it is an actual product that is sold as just a sealer, then activate and reduce also if it says to in the tech sheets. If you are using an epoxy primer or urethane primer as a sealer, then again look in the tech sheets for how to mix to spray as a sealer. It would be reduced more if used a non sanding sealer then if you were using it as a primer to give fill and sanding itafterwards. The object is to get the sealer to lay out flat so you can spray your base and clear after allowing proper flash time, without sanding in between. You could always sand, but if you lay it out good, no reason to if you don't get past the time window allowed to spray your base coat on. Reading more now what you posted. If your 2k primer is a color that will cover well with your base, I'd skip using that sealer. It sounds like a 1k unactivated sealer from what you have posted. Is there not an activator. I see no advantage to using it if you are spraying the entire truck with 2k primer and sanding smooth, final sanding that with between 400-600 wet. That sealer may cause more problems then good. If it is unactivated, take it back and ask your paint supplier why he is selling you crap 1k sealer when you have it all in 2k primer. If it were an epoxy product, it would be different. Wtf? synthetic enamel, geez.

 

If you bought an epoxy primer like I suggested earlier, reduce that and use as a sealer if you want to seal (probably need a good 2 quarts mixed to spray the outside of the truck with a coat, a little more if you are doing inside the box too. Or just base over your sanded 2k filler primer. You would be taking a step backwards if you go and use a 1k product now after using all 2k thus far. Jobbers, geez.

 

You do not have to worry about gun tip size when you are spraying epoxy, urethane or enamel or whatever you are goin to use. The only time you should worry about tip size for is when or if you will ever spray metal flake paints.

 

Also if you do alot of painting, you shouldn't really need a air pressure regulator for spraying because the sound should tell you its at the right or wrong pressure goin through the gun.
If you are a beginner at painting the regulator gauge is good cause you set it and leave it then the sound of the air flow becomes locked in your brain and you will be able to notice if your regulator is too high or too low of pressure later down the road.

 

This statement is totally wrong. Why do paint manufacturers put tip size recommendations and there product sheets then? Different viscositys need different tip sizes to atomize properly and go on smooth without a lot of orange peel or to even get out of the gun in the first place. A thick filler primer will need a much bigger tip size to spray then typical basecoat which reduced properly is somewhat thin in comparison. Singlestage enamel may need just a little larger tip then basecoat. You could probably spray basecoat with a 1.7 like your primer, but with that large of a tip size, the droplets hitting the car would be large, not being atomized enough by the tip, and finish would have a lot of orange peel. Not only that but coats would likely be heavy and possible having problems with solvent buildup, which can cause solvent pop or other problems. Its easier to lay material that is thinner without orange peel then thicker stuff. Most epoxy primers are not really a high build type primer and are mainly used for there corrosion protection, how well they stick, and that fact when cured they are not porous like urethane and lacquer primers are. They can usually be sprayed with a 1.4 like used for most basecoat and clear, with a little reduction if needed.

 

primer sealer seems odd to me. I know of primer, primer surfacer, sealer, and epoxy primer, etc.. But not primer sealer. What brand are we using? Typically, I've used the bigger tips on primer surfacer, but that's for scratch fill/build up and gets sanded down anyway. And I've typically used the top coat/clear gun for the sealer.

 

Im just saying from my experience of painting. Enamels are harder to spray that bases and urethanes. I dont worry about tip sizes, every paintjob I've done I just shot with what I got for a tip. Each job turned out just fine. Its all about the setting you spray the paint mostly whether its humid, dry, cold or warm.
Orange peal or fish eyes can happen in any climate anyways even with a properly mixed and right tip size recommended by PPG or Dupont or whoever ya know.All I know for sure Don't buy Stato-clear by PPG unless you like razor blading drips out.