Changing 1990/4.9 oil pan gasket
#1
#2
I have a 1991 F150 4x4. I unbolted the motor mounts, placed a wooden block against the crank pulley and used a bottle jack to lift the front of the motor. I had to remove the windshield wiper motor to get enough clearance because the back of the intake touched the motor. You can then remove the bolts and slide the pan out the back. In replacing the gasket, I did not use any specific sequence but make sure you don't overtighten the bolts. One thing I wish I had done last time... Replace the oil pump whether you think it needs or not. I didn't and now I need to do it again.
#3
i just did mine thinking it was the oil pan gasket but found out it is actualy the rear seal leaking into the front side of the tranny/engine plate by the back of the oil pan..just unbolt the motor mounts,jack it up..put blocks under the motor mounts..do it from there like was said..slide it out the back..i put a high volume oil pump in mine while i was in there..this engine has over 250k on it & still running strong..even ran for a few months with a cracked because of an overheating incident..put a new head on it & pulls like crazy.
#4
I just replaced my 1990's 4.9 oil pan gasket with a Fel Pro and it took me about 5 hours without lifting the engine. I am an intermediate mechanic but pretty straight forward. Drain the oil, drop the pan, and shimmy the new one in. It can absolutely be done without hoisting the engine though, confirmed.
#5
Just fwi, the previous message was 8 years ago. Always a good idea to check the post date before replying (unless you're asking a new question on old information). Otherwise it just clutters up the front page.
But yes, I've done it without a hoist (a lot easier with one) by using the same method of a block of wood on the front pulley. Unbolting the transmission and exhaust helps too.
Put ALL the bolts in before doing any tightening, and then start from the center and move out toward the ends. Never overtighten, even if it doesn't feel snug enough, or you'll crush the gasket and you'll have to start all over.
One of my least favorite jobs on the engine.
But yes, I've done it without a hoist (a lot easier with one) by using the same method of a block of wood on the front pulley. Unbolting the transmission and exhaust helps too.
Put ALL the bolts in before doing any tightening, and then start from the center and move out toward the ends. Never overtighten, even if it doesn't feel snug enough, or you'll crush the gasket and you'll have to start all over.
One of my least favorite jobs on the engine.
#6
took me 2 days
Changed the gasket in my gravel driveway. Had a hangup when my engine got off balance on myblock of wood and jack. Had to wait for a neighbor to come home and muscle it back on the motor mounts correctly. No fun at all. It wasn't 3 months and my rear main seal went out. Going ttj
Just fwi, the previous message was 8 years ago. Always a good idea to check the post date before replying (unless you're asking a new question on old information). Otherwise it just clutters up the front page.
But yes, I've done it without a hoist (a lot easier with one) by using the same method of a block of wood on the front pulley. Unbolting the transmission and exhaust helps too.
Put ALL the bolts in before doing any tightening, and then start from the center and move out toward the ends. Never overtighten, even if it doesn't feel snug enough, or you'll crush the gasket and you'll have to start all over.
One of my least favorite jobs on the engine.
But yes, I've done it without a hoist (a lot easier with one) by using the same method of a block of wood on the front pulley. Unbolting the transmission and exhaust helps too.
Put ALL the bolts in before doing any tightening, and then start from the center and move out toward the ends. Never overtighten, even if it doesn't feel snug enough, or you'll crush the gasket and you'll have to start all over.
One of my least favorite jobs on the engine.
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bigdaddylove
1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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06-29-2012 10:24 AM