Hey all! I am currently using a Motorcraft Fl820-S filter, and changing Mobil 1 5w-30 every 5000 miles. Its getting about time for a change, and I was thinking of using the Mobil 1 Extended Performance oil filter. Do any of you have any experience/opinions with this filter? I wonder if it's any better than the Motorcraft? Thanks!

 

It's more expensive, I know that! I'm running one on dad's truck, a 2006 F150 with the 5.4L motor. I think the anti-drainback valve was different on it than the Motorcraft. I had already bought it so I used it, but I'd take a look before buying.

 

Different how? Does it seem like it would not work as well?

 

It looked like the bypass was at the back, whereas the Motorcraft has it on the front. Compare the two side by side; you'll see what I mean.

 

Will do! Thanks

 

Awhile ago there was a link for a fairly extensive oil filter article... Not really a test per se, but more of a thorough exam of each filter element and design features (perhaps someone will post the link). The M1 filter was rated quite well from what I recall with a synthetic element (rather than paper) and the only negative noted was the high price.

 

If your filter is mounted inverted, with the closed end pointing down, you'll want a filter with the bypass located in the base (the open threaded end).

This is so that when mounted inverted, any debris, or water, collected in the closed end, won't be recirculated through the open bypass valve and into the engine, when the filter goes into bypass, on those cold starts, or when you feel like getting up to warp factor one or two!!!! lol

The Motorcraft filter has it's bypass valve correctly located, for it's inverted operating position, in the filters base (the open threaded end).

You'll also want to be mindful of the bypass valves specified psi opening pressure, the pressure drop accross the filter media, the media type, it's filtering area & the viscosity of the chosen lubricant, as all those will go together to figure into the equation for how well our engines will be lubed during all ocasions, in a particular OCI.

If your going for an extended OCI, then imo, the filtering media material & filter construction, should be taken into consideration, as they'll need to hold up for a longer time without failing.

Don't think I'd want to consider using an inexpensive filter, with a small surface filtering area, or a surface filtering paper filter element, or one with cardboard end caps, or plastic internal parts, or inexpensve rubber seals, for any extended OCI's!!!!!

Seems to me it should be a synthetic depth type filtering media, with a large surface area, metal parts, silicone gaskets for the base & anti-drainback valve & a non leaking bypass valve design, all intended for extended OCI's.

Just some more ideas for consideration.

 

PawPaw, Thanks for the response. Should I take this as an "OK" on the Mobil 1 filter? Where can I find out if this filter meets the requirements you have laid out?

 

Well PW01 I suppose you could look on the Mobil web site, maybe you could find some of the info your interested in, listed there.

Otherwise I'd call or draft a carefully worded "E" mail to their "technical" group & see if you can come by the "official word" on the info you want.

Often times if you are a user of their products & want to change, upgrade, do something different, ect, they'll sometmes offer up info or advice thats unpublished & I'd trust that kind of info more than something posted on some web site.

I don't have enough up to date info, or feel I have enough technical knowledge about how the "extended life" filter you are interested in, is constructed, to comment on it, one way or the other.

I've heard many favorable comments about this brand filter, but most were just feelings, not comparitave analisis of published specs, or actual measured test results on the product.

If your trying to filter out finer particles, over a longer OCI, then seems to me, things like the type of filtering media (surface, or depth type & paper or synthetic, ect) & the area of the media would be of prime importance.

Filtering out small particles is nice, but at what point are we willing to tolerate pressure & flow drop, accross the filter, to get that better filtration?????

If our goal is to just run the filter for a longer OCI, the same sort of questions arise, as a filter slowly plugs over time, becoming more efficient at filtering smaller & smaller particles, but suffering pressure & flow drop, because of it.

Now one way around that dilemma, is to stuff more filtering meida into the filters can, so you have more filter area & theoretically you can filter finer particles for longer times with less flow & pressure losses.

Some argue stuffing more media in an already crowded can, only creates flow & pressure drops, because of flow turbulance. Sorta the ten pounds of stuff, in a five pound bag scenario!!!! lol

Then they say, well just put the extra media in a larger can, to cut turbulance losses, but then as soon as someone realizes there is extra room in there, they want to cram more media into it & make more claims for it's filtering abilities & the turbulance loss argument begins all over again!!!! lol

SO, who/what do we believe????? Well I'll just stick with my FL-1A & change that puppy & the lube twice a year, typically spring & fall.

Some say, well on extended OCI's, just pull a sample for analisis, change the filter & add another new qt of makeup lube & motor on.

Well for me, that oil analisis, filter & makeup oil cost, is more than just changing the oil & filter & knowing for sure, everything is good to go!!!! lol

Do what you want, just take the time to get good info, so you make the right decision for your situtation.

 

PW01, unless you are using your Ranger in a dirty construction environment or drive a lot of dirt roads, you have no need for this filter. The 2001 Ranger that you have or any modern Ford engine, unless abused, is not going to need these types of filters. These engines are clean burning so internal contaminants are not an issue and they usually hold their gasket seals really good so external dirt is not an issue. Keeping the air filter clean is the biggest issue you have. Any paper element oil filter will go far, far past 7500 miles before going into by-pass. If it gives you a warm fuzzy, buy one but don't expect more filtration because it isn't going to happen. Any oil filter, regardless of brand or cost is a compromise. The synthetic medias will generally allow more contaminants and particulates of a non-damaging size to be suspended in the oil whereas a normal filter will trap it. Any filter only has just so much capacity, the extended ones don't have more capacity, just deal with the materials in a different way.
Your engine, your money, and my .02

 

The current Motorcraft FL-820s that I run is the only filter that I have found that has the bypass in the base (filter is mounted vertically). The WIX 51372, Mobil 1 M1 210, and the Pure One PL24651 all have the bypass in the end of the filter - as a matter of fact, I have yet to find another filter for my application that has it in the base. Should I stick with the Motorcraft solely for this issue, or is it that big of a deal? Again, this filter will be changed at 5000 mile intervals.

 

IMO, if the filter is mounted inverted, with the closed end down, as my 4.0L Rangers is, I would want the bypass, located in the threaded base/open end, of the filter, as the Motorcraft filter correctly has it.

If the bypass is located on the opposite/closed/down end, of the filter, when it's mounted inverted, any sediment, water, sludge, metal, ect, that collects there, has a good chance of being circulated right back into the engine, when the bypass opens on a cold winter start, or when we put the pedal to the metal to get up to warp factor passing speed.

Don't know about you, but I don't like the idea of that possibility!!!!!

Not certain about your particular Motorcraft filter, but the Motorcraft FL-1A has a Porolater Pure One filter element in it & the bypass valve located in the base where it belongs, for inverted mounting. I suspect your Motorcraft really has a Purolater filter element too, if so, then using the Motorcraft filter will give you the good filtering ability of a Purolater element, with the bypass located properly, for inverted use.

The Motorcraft filter is designed for 7500 mile OCI's too!!!!

Just some more thoughts for pondering!!!!

 

Sounds like I should stay with the Motorcraft, but since the "spec" filter for my 4.0 SOHC is the FL 820s I'm not too crazy about my lack of choices.

 

Hey guys, I passed on some incorrect information. The Mobil 1 Extended Performance filter (M1 210) does indeed have the bypass valve in the base, so it should meet the requirements for a Fl 820s replacement.

 

Bypass location is pretty much meaningless.
There isn't any major sediment, water, sludge...... in your filter. If there was, you have bigger problems. Water is a moisture issue and will be in your oil and not your filter. Sediment does not occur in your filter. It will occur in your pan. Sludge will clog your filter rendering it worthless. Sludge should not be an issue in any modern engine with reasonable maintenance. Metallic and carbon particles should be caught and held by the media.
The media is a trap and doesn't readily release what it catches.
A bypass valve leaks(opens) when the media reaches its flow capacity. At no time does flow through the media stop which is why it will hold whatever it catches. Its the media's resistance to oil flow that makes the bypass open. There is NO washing of the media when the bypass valve opens.

The Mobil1 filters are excellent. But they are costly. You could probably double the filter change interval without worry. But, as I am a creature of habit, I never change my oil without changing the filter or vice versa.

PITA to prefill filter with front mount valves so 1st start after OCI is noisy.
Less spillage for the enviro-happy crowd when removing filter. Meaningless if you don't recycle your filter(like dealerships or quickee lubes). I actually prefer the BPV located in the non threaded end. My used filters are allowed to drain overnight prior to crushing and disposal.
Filter removal spillage is a problem on certain engines where that spillage of the filter creates smoking issues and underhood fires. Some engines come with filter spillage baffling(shoe horn) to divert the spillage away from the engine and into your drain pan to prevent the underhood oil smoke shows.
Others don't like prefilling the filter because the oil you buy isn't as clean as you think. Plastic bottle'd oil from the store is a lot cleaner than the oil in the recycled rusty drums/barrels at the local quickee lube or dealership. Hopefully the output side of barrel pump has a working filter.

For the regular OCI crowd, you really can't beat the Motorcraft filters.
For those that want to run the filter or oil longer then what common sense dictates, you should consider UOA's with TBN and particle counts. The UOA will help determine your OCI if you don't care to waste resources. The particles counts, along with soot/insolubles, are the only way to test the filter's effectiveness.

Also, don't confuse the BPV with the ADBV. The antidrainbackvalve prevents oil filters from draining dry when the vehicle sits overnight. This you can confirm if you have an engine that has a little 1st start noise, caused by the dry filter refilling prior to oil reaching the rest of the engine. I find that certain brands work better then others. This is the same noise you get when you install a new filter dry, except that it happens every cold morning. I've just about always recreated that 3-4 second startup clatter with those orange filters.