Tune-up specs needed for a 352
#1
#2
#3
#4
Tune-up specs needed for a 352
Dave, for starters, Chilton's is quite good. In fact, that's where I got the specs all in one place, and didn't have to search the big bulky volumes for them.
It depends on what kind of work you are doing to determine which books you need. Are you going to trick it up with after-market or later production modifications? Then interchange manuals might be a better bet. Others on this forum would have a better opinion on that, I think, because I am leaving mine mostly stock. The biggest changes I'll do to mine is add power steering, add front disc brakes, and change the 352 to a 390. For the major modifications like the brakes and power steering changes, I'll use the knowledge of the great folks on this board. Other stuff, it depends, and what I have access to I'll share as I can.
That doesn't mean that the original manuals won't be of some value, but $75 is a bit much, in my opinion. For example, I got the 1968 (and earlier) Ford Truck Service Bay Parts books (well-used, of course) for $50 on E-bay a while back, and got the original (yes, original) Service Manuals for F-Series for $35, all four or five volumes of it.
The deals are out there, just keep looking.
Good luck!
It depends on what kind of work you are doing to determine which books you need. Are you going to trick it up with after-market or later production modifications? Then interchange manuals might be a better bet. Others on this forum would have a better opinion on that, I think, because I am leaving mine mostly stock. The biggest changes I'll do to mine is add power steering, add front disc brakes, and change the 352 to a 390. For the major modifications like the brakes and power steering changes, I'll use the knowledge of the great folks on this board. Other stuff, it depends, and what I have access to I'll share as I can.
That doesn't mean that the original manuals won't be of some value, but $75 is a bit much, in my opinion. For example, I got the 1968 (and earlier) Ford Truck Service Bay Parts books (well-used, of course) for $50 on E-bay a while back, and got the original (yes, original) Service Manuals for F-Series for $35, all four or five volumes of it.
The deals are out there, just keep looking.
Good luck!
#5
Tune-up specs needed for a 352
I'll be scanning my copy of the owner's manual specificiation section. This is not something i've seen on the web site... I'll take the time now to quote the pertent info, though they agree with the prior poster
Compression presure - 160-200
Idle speed
Std transmission
Non-thermacator 550-575
thermacator 510-636
Auto trans (in drive)
Non-termacator 475-500
Thermacator 525-550
Oil presure hot (psi at 2000 rpm) 35-55
Cylinder Firing order 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8
Sparc plug replacement number BF42
Plug gap .032-.036
Distribtor point gap .017
Ignition timming
non-thermacator
STD 6 (degrees) (3) (4)
auto 6 (degrees) (3) (4)
Thermacator
STD TDC(3) (4)
auto TDC(3) (4)
(3) if the individual requirements of the vehicle and/or use of sub-standard fuels dictate the inital timming may have to be retarded from the "pre-delivery" or "Normal" setting to elimate detonation. If retarding is nessicary it should be done progressivly not to exceed 2 (degrees) BTDC.
(4) For altitude operation and/or in order to obtain optimum engine performance and fuel economy it is permissible to further advance the inital tignition timming to a maximum of 5(degrees) in excess of the "mnormal" setting. No further improvement in engine peformance or fuel economy will be achieved by advancing beyond this point. To Pperform this operation the timming should be advanced progresively untill engine detonation (sparc knock) is evident under ideal road test acceleration, following which the timing should be retarded sufficiently to elmate detonation.
Compression presure - 160-200
Idle speed
Std transmission
Non-thermacator 550-575
thermacator 510-636
Auto trans (in drive)
Non-termacator 475-500
Thermacator 525-550
Oil presure hot (psi at 2000 rpm) 35-55
Cylinder Firing order 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8
Sparc plug replacement number BF42
Plug gap .032-.036
Distribtor point gap .017
Ignition timming
non-thermacator
STD 6 (degrees) (3) (4)
auto 6 (degrees) (3) (4)
Thermacator
STD TDC(3) (4)
auto TDC(3) (4)
(3) if the individual requirements of the vehicle and/or use of sub-standard fuels dictate the inital timming may have to be retarded from the "pre-delivery" or "Normal" setting to elimate detonation. If retarding is nessicary it should be done progressivly not to exceed 2 (degrees) BTDC.
(4) For altitude operation and/or in order to obtain optimum engine performance and fuel economy it is permissible to further advance the inital tignition timming to a maximum of 5(degrees) in excess of the "mnormal" setting. No further improvement in engine peformance or fuel economy will be achieved by advancing beyond this point. To Pperform this operation the timming should be advanced progresively untill engine detonation (sparc knock) is evident under ideal road test acceleration, following which the timing should be retarded sufficiently to elmate detonation.
#6
Tune-up specs needed for a 352
DFOX,
I bught the CD-Rom manual for my 66 through the online store here. It's well worth the money, and if you need a page to take out to the truck while you're working on it, just print it out. If it gets filthy with grease, just throw it away. Try that with a print manual?
Just my .02
Kyle
Dayton, Texas
I bught the CD-Rom manual for my 66 through the online store here. It's well worth the money, and if you need a page to take out to the truck while you're working on it, just print it out. If it gets filthy with grease, just throw it away. Try that with a print manual?
Just my .02
Kyle
Dayton, Texas
#7
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#8
Tune-up specs needed for a 352
... and if you need a page to
>take out to the truck while you're working on it, just print
>it out. If it gets filthy with grease, just throw it away.
>Try that with a print manual?
While this is a decent feature, imagine the feature of a passive indexing system where by the most commenly used pages are marked clearly with the fingerprints of the user there by forcing the documenation of all sections accessed and manipluated by the end user.
Actually I've made insurance clames based on this passivly indexing technique. they made the mistake of asking me if I bought parts for my car, and I could clearly state with 100% assurance each part purchaced based on my finger print etched on the page.
Actually, I'm a fan print your self manuals, provided they are printed on a laser, not inkjet. Though I only have one HP laserjet II series, and recently aquired a similar vintage TI microlaser plus, both being in the goodwill $20.00 catagory, they don't suffer from the ink smearage that lasers do.
Alternativly speaking, I know places like kinkos offer laser printing at a nominal cost per page, and possibly a cost per keystroke to peform the fuction, but hey.
>take out to the truck while you're working on it, just print
>it out. If it gets filthy with grease, just throw it away.
>Try that with a print manual?
While this is a decent feature, imagine the feature of a passive indexing system where by the most commenly used pages are marked clearly with the fingerprints of the user there by forcing the documenation of all sections accessed and manipluated by the end user.
Actually I've made insurance clames based on this passivly indexing technique. they made the mistake of asking me if I bought parts for my car, and I could clearly state with 100% assurance each part purchaced based on my finger print etched on the page.
Actually, I'm a fan print your self manuals, provided they are printed on a laser, not inkjet. Though I only have one HP laserjet II series, and recently aquired a similar vintage TI microlaser plus, both being in the goodwill $20.00 catagory, they don't suffer from the ink smearage that lasers do.
Alternativly speaking, I know places like kinkos offer laser printing at a nominal cost per page, and possibly a cost per keystroke to peform the fuction, but hey.
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