All of a sudden, the gear oil leaks out through the yoke on the rear end. I had the yoke seal replaced, and it still leaks. I've been told that the yoke is possibly scratched and that it might have to be replced. After the driveshaft is yanked, there's a large nut to be removed and then the yoke will come off the pinion shaft, then, the seal can be replaced also. Was also told to measure the amount of screw showing before removing the big nut, so, I would'nt overtighten upon reinstall, there is a crush collar on the pinion shaft.

Is this a feasable driveway repair? I've got lots of repairs under my belt, but never this one.

Suggestions please.

 

You say the seal was replaced and it still leaks. You talk about a scratch on the yoke, do you mean a cut all the way around where the seal rides?

I do not know what rear end you have, as you did not say. So I will guess it to be an 8.8.
If so this is an easy job if you have the tools, if you do not have the tools it is impossible for you to get it right.

First you have to find a way to hold the yoke from turning, not an easy thing to do. I cut out a tool from 1/4" plate with my cutting torch 4 ft. long that bolts to the yoke with a hole for the nut to come out and go in through.

Second you take the nut off with a 3/4" ratchet with a 4' pipe on it. Some say they get away with an impact wrench here but if you do you might do the bearings in.

Third mark the position of the yoke to the shaft and then you pull the yoke off with a puller.

Fourth pry out the seal and take out the crush sleeve.

Fifth put in a new crush sleeve, drive on the seal and put the yoke back on in the same position that it was before you took it off unless you are replacing it. You did mark it did you not?

Put your holder in position and tighten the NEW nut to about 12 to 14 inch lb. with your 3/4" ratchet and 4' pipe. If you go over 14 inch lbs. replace the seal and crush sleeve and start over. You can not back the nut off.

The 12 to 14 inch lbs. is how much it takes to turn the yoke with the drums off using a 40 inch lb. torque wrench on the nut with used bearings. KD tools sell the torque wrench.

 

"Put your holder in position and tighten the NEW nut to about 12 to 14 inch lb. with your 3/4" ratchet and 4' pipe. If you go over 14 inch lbs. replace the seal and crush sleeve and start over. You can not back the nut off."


Very wrong information here.

That would be 12 - 14 " pound drag on the bearing.
If you torqued the nut to 12 -1 4" pounds there would be way too much clearance.

The amount of torque to crush the sleeve is into the high 100 foot pounds.

 

The information is right, you just did like the way it was wrote. This is close to how the Ford manuals word it. This is from the Manual.

Companion Flange, Rear Axle Installation

1. Apply a small amount of lubricant to the companion flange splines.

2. NOTE: If a new rear axle companion flange is being installed, disregard the scribe mark on the pinion shaft.

NOTE: The rear axle companion flange must never be hammered on or installed with power tools.

Align the mark on the rear axle companion flange with the mark on the pinion shaft. Install the rear axle companion flange using Companion Flange Replacer TOOL-4858-E or equivalent.

3. Install a new pinion nut on the pinion stem.

4. Hold the circular rear axle companion flange with Companion Flange Holding Tool T78P-4851-A while tightening the pinion nut (see Step 5).



5. Tighten the pinion nut, rotating the pinion occasionally to make sure pinion bearing cone and roller assemblies seat properly. Take frequent drive pinion bearing torque preload readings until the specified preload reading is obtained.

New Bearings: 1.8-3.3 N-m (16-29 lb-in)

Used Bearings: .9-1.5 N-m (8-14 lb-in)

Under no circumstances should the pinion nut be backed off to reduce preload. If reduced preload is required, a new collapsible spacer and pinion nut must be installed.




There is not a torque setting for the nut, you just tighten it a very little at a time with the big stuff and then check the rotation with inch pound torque wrench.

 

But that is not what you wrote.

 

I suppose it is all in the way you are thinking when you write or read something.
The bottom line is, I was trying to let him answer his own question and I am sure I have left some things out.
His question was "Is this a feasable driveway repair?"

I have done the job in my driveway but he is going to have to answer the question for himself and I hope I have given him enough information to do that.
If not I hope he will keep asking us all some more questions.

 

Thank you subford and Stuart1 for your help. I think I'm going to look for somebody who does this kind of work. I don't think I'd like to chance screwing up the rear end by putting too much load, or little, on the big nut.

I don't know the exact reason for the leak, I was told it might be a scored yoke, I'm not sure.

I'm also afraid that the mechanic who replaced the seal a few months ago might have put an air gun to it without any regards to the crush collar.

One question though. I see in the drawings that the torque values are in inch/pounds, my 1/2 drive wrench is in foot/lbs. Can I use this wrench if needed?

Again, thanks

 

The other fellow is very knowledgable.
He just added the wrong terminology.

This is not usually a job for the fainthearted.

 

You are very welcome.
No you can not use a Foot/lbs. torque wrench.
The one I ordered from O'Reilly Auto Parts is a KD #2955. It is a 1/4" inch drive and the scale is 0 to 60-inch lbs. It cost about $40.00 and is a Beam-Type like in the diagram above.

 

Now I'm confused. How is it that you use a 1/4" torque wrench when previously you said you need a 3/4" drive and a 4' pipe extension.

Please explain, thanks.

 

The 3/4" drive and a 4' pipe extension is for tightening the nut, as it takes about 350 to 400 ft. lbs. to turn the nut. You have to change back and fourth to the inch lbs. torque wrench as you tighten the nut to make sure you do not go over the 14 inch lbs. required to turn the shaft (bearing preload).
You do not hold the yoke (flange) when you check the preload, you only hold the yoke (flange) while tighten and loosing the nut.

 

I see, thanks again.

 

You know it is possible that he used the old nut and it came loose that will cause it to leak.