What I thought was the CPS or CAMP sensor turned out wrong.

I was finally able to retrieve the code using a snapon code retriever.

I understand that the code has something to do with a pressure sensor, but it is off of the exhaust, then I was told that it is a boost sensor.

1.) What is it?
2.) Where is it?
3.) Is it a PITA to change?
4.) Is there anything elese I need to do before changing it?
5.) Is there anything else that can be related to it, like the PCM?

Paul

 

comes up- Exhaust Back Pressure sensor circuit performance-

Says its plugged, stuck or has a leaking hose

hope that helps

 

P0470 is Exhaust Back Pressure Sensor Circuit Malfunction just as Duane99 said.

it is located on the right side of the engine, on the top, beside the HPOP and behind the A/C compressor i believe. follow the tube from the front of the right manifold to this sensor. it's the sensor that's faulty. to fix it, remove the tube from the manifold, blow it out with compressed air, and also do the same thing to the sensor. i have a feeling that the tube or sensor is carboned up.

 

If you can't get the code to go away, even with cleaning, you may look at this, its about 1/2 the cost of buying a new sensor and will take care of all of your 047x codes.

 

Thanks Duane and Strokin for your fast replys.

Before it set this code, the truck would be running fine, then it would, I don't know how to describe it, like cough or buck similiar to a plug misfire on a gasser. If it did it twice within a mile or two the SES would lite. Shutting down and restarting would turn the lite off.

I finally got ahold of a FORD truck mechanic who now works for as a Service manager for and International Truck Dealer. We had quite a conversation. At first, he thought cam sensor and told me that he had a Snapper that would read it and bring it by. I questioned him about the blue CPS and he stated that they were for the 6 cylinders and that they were having a rough time with them failing and if that was the problem, he would give me a black IH sensor to try.

Upon arrival, the first test KOEO, showed the code. He cleared it and then he tested it KOER with no code. He did do a few of the test that shut the sensors down and make it jump and rattle, but as soon as it was turned off, the code returned. As we were outside and it was raining cats and dogs, he was not able to show me where it was and as he did the test free, I did not push him for any more answers. He did tell me to remove the pipe and clean it, clean the bottom of the sensor and then see if the problem returned. He also told me to dog it a little coming home, in otherwords keep the tach above 2500 and see if I could blow out a little carbon. Now the truck is straight piped, so that puzzled me a bit.

Now, this dealer is approximately 1 1/2 hours from my home. On my way home, the rain had stopped, I cracked the passenger window so I could hear it and I started playing a little bit, shifting down to 4th and taching it up. After doing this several times, I noticed that the truck seemed a little different in the power band. It was coming on faster and stronger each time. This time as I powered it up, then shifted into overdrive, a weird noise occurred. I cannot describe it. It was like a muffled bark in a can. The dang thing took off like a rocket, actually on the wet road in a curve, it was more like a 75 mph powerslide. It scared the daylights out of me it happened so fast. It was more like a shot of Nitrous had been injected. Also, I could really hear the turbo through the exhaust. It seemed to be twice as loud.

The truck did not buck, there is no SES light. I am completely puzzled. I don't know if the code is still there.

Is there a possibility that the wastegate was stuck partially opened and would cause this type of code? I had noticed what seemed to be a loss of power, but I also changed tire sizes (taller) and put that for that loss. I jsut know that it seems to run a lot better than it did.

Also, Garrett, thanks for your response. I checked out the page, but I do not have a pyrometer, so I do not want to override the sensor just yet.

 

No problem.
A pyrometer isn't required to run the code eliminator, though

 

It is my understanding that the eliminator kills about 35 codes, some of them to do with high temps. Don't want to melt the old girl down. $8K is a lot of bucks for a new heart. I would rather put up with the code and find the problem and fix it.