Is the head gasket job on the 3.0 very difficult? anything special to watch out for? I really want to do the job my self and I really feel I have enough know how with a little help. any info would be appreciated.

 

OK, I'll bite. Nothing special if you have a distributor equipped engine. The intake bolts and probably head bolts are 'torque to yield' which means you get to buy new ones if you want it put together right.
You need special gizmos (cheap) to disconnect the fuel lines, and maybe some coolant lines (heater core).
How did you determine that you need to replace it(them)? The Vulcan may be pokey, but it sure is reliable, IMHO. Got over 200k on mine, and still running good. What symptoms? You may be surprised at how much mechanicin' and diagnosing can be done over the net.
tom

 

It sure is realiable, It runs great I have 129,000 on it I bought it new in 99 great truck, I have alot of pressure in the cooling system, I have replaced the rad cap the t-stat
drained and back flushed the cooling system, I started it up cold and run about 4 miles the temp gauge went to normal and I had normal heat, then the temp gauge went down to cold and then up to hot and back to normal all in about 1 minute. then it stays normal. after about 15 miles I shut off the engine and the coolent recovery tank is almost to the top. The top hose seems very hard also. The truck has never overheated on me. But I think I have a failure in the EGR system,

 

There are a few comments regarding 3.0L vulcan headgaskets in this article:

http://www.babcox.com/editorial/ar/eb90450.htm

But I also would be hesitant to condemn the headgaskets on your '99, not until you've ruled out everything else.

 

good article. what else should I be looking at,