The manual says the following are on fuse #27 (I thought it was 26)

transmission control switch
DRL module
backup lamp switch
digital TR sensor
pulse vacuum
hublock switch solenoid

My model does not have DRL and its 2wd so I think that rules out the DRL module, pulse vacuum, hublock switch solenoid, and maybe digital TR sensor?

 

Ok I thought it might be the 5R55E tranny.

My manual shows the N/Start switch to be on the drivers side, locacted between & above the shift cable bracket & where the shift cabe end, connects to the tranny.

It's sort of round shaped, with a hex body & electrical connector on the end.

Not sure where the OD solenoid connector is located, but it's probably more toward the front of the tranny, closer to the torque converter, but someone else will have to pinpoint it for us.

 

on my beater the OD connector is really close to the torque converter. It's on the outside of housing, on top, next to the bellhousing. If your overdrive is really a lockup torque converter then I'd start looking around the bellhousing and see what you find.

 

Well I was not able to find a connector that looks like that. I only see three electrical connectors on the tranny. One towards the back with only two wires and a small black connector. I tried disconnecting this and it still blows the fuse. Then there is the large black connector that connecs where the shift cable arm connects. Tried this and and the fuse still blows. There is one other connector just in front of the main shifter linkage connection with a blue cap on it. I was not able to disconnect this one. I did try pullling the fuse number 25 from under the hood (manual says the auto tranny is on this one) and the fuse still blows. I also noticed that it will blow as soon as you pass over from R to N on the shifter.

I am still at a loss on this one.......

 

It would be real handy if you pulled the trouble codes & a P-0705 came up. "Transmission range sensor out of self test range or shorted to ground."

Have you tried removing the connector from the TRS & see if the fuse still blows? If it does, my guess would be the TRS is shorted to ground.

 

I don't have a check engine light on. Can I still pull the trouble codes? Also where is the TRS sensor located? I will be happy to try disconnecting it and see if that works.

 

Eyeball, after re~reading your above post about about the fuses, I'm a little confused about which number fuse is blowing.

Is it #26, or #27?????

There can be "Pending" codes stored in the computers CM, ("Continuous Memory") that won't set the CEL until they occur a certain number of drive cycles.

Also does your CEL illuminate when you first turn the ignition switch to "RUN", before you crank it????

If not, it's probably burned out.

If it is, for sure have the computer rescanned for codes.

It really sounds more like it's a solenoid problem to me, but it could be the N/Start switch, or a wiring insulation problem to them, as the fuse doesn't blow until you move the shifter.

So knowing if the CEL lamp is ok & illuminating, having the codes rechecked as 87XLT suggested & knowing for sure, which # fuse is blowing, all will help narrow it down a little more IMO.

We just need to know for sure where the solenoids & N/Start switch are located on your 5R55E tranny. My manuals illustrations & pictures arent real clear on where the solenoids are, especially the OD solenoid.

 

Since the TRS monitors the position of the shift lever, I thought it would be mounted to the steering column. But I just looked it up in the EVTM, and it's plugged into the drivers side of the trans with an 8 wire connector attached.

If you remove that connector & the fuse DOESNT blow, you've found your problem.

As pawpaw mentioned im also confused on the 26 or 27 thing.

The range sensor is wired to fuse 26.

Excuse me for asking, but have you considered buying your next truck with a manual trans?

 

OOPS, i just read post 19 & I guess you have allready removed this connector from the trans & the fuse still blows.

Have you looked where these same wires go thru the sheet metal into the cab? Might be shorting there.

 

Sorry for the confusion. I thought it was fuse 26 but its 27 on my truck. I think some trucks the revers lights are on fuse 26. In one of my previous posts I listed what my owners manual lists on that fuse.

I have tried disconnecting two out of the 3 electrical connectors on the tranny and no help. I was not able to disconnect the other one but I will try it again.

The wires look ok where they go through the cab but they had a rubber gromet on them so I could not see all the wire.

I wanted a standard transmision in the first place but my wife is horable at driving a stick so I opted for an automatic. Its actualy nice on the commute to work.

 

along the same lines of this thread, i just purchased a 2002 explorer and am having the same problem. no reverse lights, and every time that i put a new fuse in and put it in reverse, the fuse blows. i have checked the bulbs and didn't see any physical trouble, no corrosion, no blown bulbs, sockets are clean and dry, no idea from here, any insight would be great.

 

Well if you ever figure it out please let me know! I have pretty much given up on mine at least for now. I don't have to get my truck inspected until March 2007 so I am driving with no reverse lights and a cracked windshield for the time being. The crack is only in front of the passenger so I really could care less. My fuse blows now as soon as you shift the tranny. Good luck!

 

as soon as i find out something, i will be sure to let you know.

 

damienlike, assuming someone hasn't put in over wattage lamps, or tapped in extra backup lights on this circuit, it sounds like there may be a short circuit somewhere between the switch on the tranny & the backup lights.

Seeing as how the fuse doesn't blow right away, but only when you shift into reverse, says the wiring between the fuse block & neutral/start switch is ok.

So I'd maybe suspect a problem around the neutral/start switch & work back toward the backup lights until you find something.

Look for problems with the switch first, as it's the only part in this circuit that moves.

If that proves out ok, move back along the wiring looms & look for places where the wiring comes into contact with anything that moves, vibrates, is hot, or sharp & check for chafed wiring insulation.

Let us know what you find.

 

Eyeball--did you ever find your solution? I, too, have the problem with my '97 Ranger. It blows about 1 second after I put it into reverse. All other functions on the fuse (O/D, etc.) work fine.