Just a note: my Chiltons 61-71 all truck manual shows all the V8's to have the same firing order. They ignore the y-block series.

I thought the standard was to put a long straw in #1 to get TDC along with the timing mark to get it real close. Wonder if the timing chain has ever been messed with. For that matter, I would wonder if the valves are set right to. If the PO didn't have the right firing order, what else did he get wrong?

As for oil pressure, the Y isn't the best at oil distribution...

 

Thanks Merc, Sam and all who gave input for my problem. I need to buy a few repair manuals for this truck (63 f-100) Any suggestions would be appreciated.

I did as 286merc suggested, reset the distributor, and it fired right up! It was not as easy as it sounds, though. I had a tough time getting the distributor to seat. I figure the rod for the oil pump was messing me up.

I did discover a few more issues though. I noticed the bolt holding down the distributor wasn't very tight. After I removed the bolt I was ready for a struggle to remove the distributor. It slid right out!

After I pulled the distributor out I looked down inside the engine and noticed a glob of metal shavings laying on the gear that drives the distributor. I tried to scoop it out but it fell into the engine once it broke loose. Could this be the result of lack of oil to the gear? The gear on the distributor does show some wear, but I had to scrub off the old oil residue to get a good look at it. The gear inside was too black to judge the wear on it. There just isn't much oil flow to the top part of the engine. It looks pretty dry onder the valve covers as well.

I got the distributor close to where I wanted it and proceeded to bolt it down. Just as it was starting to snug the bolt broke. I inspected the two halves and noticed that the bolt had been partially broken previously which would explain the ease of removal. I temporarily wired the distributor in place so that I could start the engine. Like I said, it fired right up. What a great sound! I let the engine run for about 5 seconds and turned it off.

I hadn't noticed any metal in the previous oil changes and I specifically look for it. I am wondering what would the best thing be to do at this point?

Thanks again for the help. It is much appreciated!

 

Glad that it fires!
Id suspect that the shavings are aluminum from the dizzy moving around. Brand new replacements are available from Advance Auto, NAPA, etc for under $60. Made by Cardone.

As far as cleaning I would pull the dizzy, drop the pan and flush straight thru with diesel fuel or home heating oil. Pull and clean the oil pump and screen as well as scrub out the pan. Refill the oil and let run for 30 minutes or so. Replace the filter each time.

Once you have the timing issues all fixed then it is time to pull the rocker shafts and clean the oil passages. With a clean pan, pump/screen and shafts you can start cleaning the remaining oil passages by using a top quality multigrade oil. I use only Castrol GTX 20W50 and the high mileage version on old engines with the requesite high mileage. Watch the dipstick color for oil changing times which will be fairly frequent at first.

Shell Rotella is also a good oil but only available in 10W40 multigrade.

 

I agree with 286merc 1000%. Drop the pan and clean the profanity out of the oil passages. Good advise for anyone that's bought a Y.

I have a reprint of the original FoMoCo 1961 Ford Truck Shop Manual I bought from Faxon (an e-bay store). Very happy with it. I then got an old 62-63 suppliment. That's how they were printed then - 61 manual with the 62-63 suppliment. Not much changed for 3 yrs.

 

[QUOTE=286merc]

Refill the oil and let run for 30 minutes or so. Replace the filter each time.

[QUOTE]

I meant to say drain the oil after the 30 minutes and also replace the filter again. NEVER use FRAM filters, they restrict flow and lower the oil pressure.
I use Motorcraft FL1A whenever possible or Hastings and WIX equivalents. The premium Purolators are supposedly good also.

Ive been using FL1A's on my Mopars for decades, probably why the 85 318 has 392K on it and never had the valve covers off! Most regulars on here know I swing in many directions, even have some bowties in the stable!

 

Thanks Sam and Merc for the advice and help.

I followed Merck's recommendation and gave the engine a good cleaning. I wasn't in a big hurry so I took my time and made sure I did a thorough job. I pulled the oil pan and flushed deisel fuel through the distributor hole. I used deisel to do a light cleaning on the rockers and shaft and sprayed the camshaft area using a spray bottle. I alowed the fuel to run through the oil drain holes in the heads. One of the holes had pieces of black plastic. The pieces were curved and looked to have the diameter of maybe the shaft. Anyone know what this may be?

Next I put everything back together, installed a new filter, filled her with fresh oil, connected the tach and timing light. I was good to go.

The truck fired right up! It ran a little rough, the valve train was noisy and the manifold smoked from the oil that I spilled on it. It was running though and it was nice to hear. I checked for oil pressure and adjusted the idle to around 600 rpm's.

The smoke continued and then I noticed a leak. I looked under the truck and saw that it was coming from the back of the engine. I then remembered I had only tightened the valve cover nuts finger tight and that I must be getting oil to that side. I checked the other side for a leak and discovered a smaller one. That head was getting oil as well. I also realized the noise from the valve train had almost disappeared...nice!

I adjusted the timing but I am not sure if the vacuum should be removed and pluged and at what RPM's should it be running at idle when fully warm? The timing is set to about 10 degrees before TDC.

Before I start the truck again I will give it an oil change.

Sam, I saw the manual you are talking about but could only find the supplement and not the 1961 copy. I'll check again. It is nice to be driving the truck again. These are fun to drive, as you know. What size tires are you running?

Merc, I didn't know the Motorcraft FL1A fit the 318. I have a 98 dodge van with the 318 and never made the connection. I have a Mercury 5.0 that takes that filter too so i'll have to stock up on them. The 318 is a good engine and I too like variety. Makes life more interesting.

Thanks again!

Terry

 

Need help. got a 63 ford f100 with a 292 y block. I thought it jumped time. so I jerked it apart and bought all new timing chain etc. Some guy I new told me it jumped time because the chain was off and the dots were not lining up. So uon putting the thing back together I pulled the valve cover to ensure I was on TDC on #1. Nope the Distrubutor was on It's #1 possiotion pointing towards the valve cover but the cam alignment dot it faceing the passanger side at 90 degrees or 1/4 to it goal of making it to TDC with the dots matching. What's going on. It back fired servearly before I tore it apart. I know it will do it again if I put it back together. Maybe it is the Distributor gear?????Help

 

You're much better off starting a new thread on that one.

go here: http://www.ford-y-block.com/assemblyerrors.htm

 

I have a 292 engine in my 1964 truck. I rewired the distributor.
I know I have the the right firing order.
Now it back fires. won't start. Does anyone have a photo where
the #1 plug is located on the distributor.
I need help
Thanks, Wille

 

The number "1" appears on top of the cap. It may take a flashlight to see it.


One other thing, make sure that TDC is on the compression stroke before inserting.

 

yo, got the same problem, rebuilt the carb , points fell aprt in the dist, installed new, replace plugs & wires 1 at a time & checked comp,, still has a miss I have no info this far back. what side is #1 on?? could use a diagram thanks brian

 

no 1 is on the passenger side, not the cyl. closest to the front, both the ford and lincoln y's are this way.