a couple weeks ago had some problems with engine running very rough.Thought I might have gotton some water in fuel.The problem went away.Now having problem again.Engine started missing and gets worse as rpms go up.Any ideas?Thought I would replace the fuel filter to see if that fixes it. HELP!!!!!!!

 

CPS or IPR neads replacing. do CPS first

 

water in fuel can ruin injectors very fast.............
i suggest doing a buzz test. that will let you know whats up.

 

????????????

 

ditto i second that.

 

far from retired.........
i am 26. full time dad,husband, and sailor.
spend early morning time on here and late nights.
who did we help???? glad they got there stuff fixed.

my dad had water ruin 3 injectors in 3 minutes. i know i was driving it. he didnt want me to pull over to drain the bowl.....he is not the first i heard this happen too.


i am thinking more along the lines of some burnt wiring maybe getting cut and shorted by a rocker/pushrod.

a buzz will tell all either a bad injector or burnt wiring.
also dont rule out anything like already mentioned cps.

not all codes set a light. who ever buzzes it can also pull codes. or just go to a parts store and try to get codes pulled first.
good luck here to help when i can...........

 

if i were as good on this computer as i am on psd i would be ok.

 

dumb question, what's a cps, ipr, and a buzz test anyway? i love working on my truck, just never got to that kind of stuff yet... only owned 2 years. although, it sure does pour out the blue when it gets cold outside.

 

CPS= Camshaft Position Sensor. IPR= Injection Pressure Regulator.

A buzz test test's the electrical solenoid packs on top of the injectors.

Smoke from a cold engne on a cold day is normal....as long as it clears up as the engine warms.

 

Is it a 5 speed manual? If it is, it could be the flywheel. When mine went bad I thought it was the truck just iddling rough. (which it does if the flywheel goes out!)

Just a thought.

jimbo

 

I bought a '97 on ebay. Previous owner said that it runs rough when cold, but goes away as soon as the temp gauge starts to move. Not really! During 70° weather it would take my truck 3-5 miles on Wisconsin roads, to stop running rough and feel somewhat normal. After that it felt OK, but nothing to exciting. Small town Ford Dealer had the truck, said #6 injector was intermittent. They changed it with a Ford replacement (rebuilt, not new Alliant brand). They said problem was fixed. Before I left the parking lot, I knew nothing was different. Drove the truck to Idaho, Wyoming, etc. 4000 miles round trip. Mileage ranged from 9-15 with a big camper on top. Took it back to the Ford Dealer. They said now #8 is intermittent. I said put it back together, and I'll pick it up. My test is: with a warm engine, in neutral hold the engine at 2000 rpm for a few seconds, then go to 2500 rpm for a few seconds, and then 3000 rpm for a few seconds. Even when warm, my engine didn't feel strong/smooth at 2000 rpm. At 2500 rpm, there would be excessive white smoke, and then it would smooth out, no smoke while revving to 3000. I took it to the local ADS diesel sservice shop. Explained the situation. He put the truck on the computer, and tested several times, each time showing that different injectors were intermittent. His conclusion was that the injectors had suffered from lack of lubrication or poor fuel causing late fuel timing. To test the late timing theory he programmed a 50 hp chip and installed it. The throttle response on a warm engine is much better, and no white smoke at 2500. He said this is only a band aid, and that I need new injectors. My truck still needs a few miles to not shake and shudder (manual trans) until it is fully warm. I watch the temp gauge, see the temp rise, thermostat opens, temp stabilizes and then the truck will begin to run smootly. It's almost like somebody flips a switch. These engines are programmed for (2) fuel timing curves based on EOT (engine oil temp). As I understand it, cold oil calls for more advance, and then the timing is retarded as the temp increases. That might be the switch effect that I feel. When the oil temp reaches the setpoint, my computer switches timing curves, allowing the engine to smooth out. I can let the truck idle for 5-10 minutes before I drive it, plenty of white smoke, that clears up within the first mile, and then it chugs runs rough for the next 2-4 miles until it finally clears out. My truck is not able to be used as a daily driver since I only work 10 miles from home. My diesel guy is tough to get in touch with, but he wants me to do a compression check to verify that the engine is good (140K miles), and I think I need some glow plugs, so I'll change those while I'm in there. I think the engine is good, and if so, we'll go towards injectors. About $2500 for the set of 8. I'm looking for another truck to use as a test vehicle, or injector donor. I don't want to pay for new injectors, just to get stock performance. Guys will say $800 -$1000 for injectors from beans or swamps, but they have disclaimers about inspecting the your injectors. If mine are worn as expected, I don't think they would return the full core price. You can e-mail me for my phone number to discuss in detail. Don't waste your time with a Ford dealer unless they are a high volume diesel service center, otherwise look for an ADS member shop. Our local Ford mechanic is supposedly an expert in everything from brakes, to AC, to transmissions, to diesel engines. It's more like a jack of all trades, master of none!

Good luck,
Tim

 

Tim I have the same exact thing to my 2000 F350. Sometimes I start it let it run for a few minutes. Then let it get heat soaked and then start it and it will seem to run normally. I to suspect its bad (sticking) injectors when cold. I do notice that when I do a buzz test they all do not sound the same, some are quieter than others. Also it will not start when cold, only if it plugged in for a hour or so. I was told to check the injectors while cranking and see if they are pumping out oil. The other thing is the harness under the cover needs to be checked. I know what you mean about flipping a switch. Mine will shake for a while then after a few miles if I floor it all of a sudden it takes off like someone flipped a switch.

 

I have a cold starting problem with some similarity to those posted above, however I suspect mine to be fuel related.

Situation:
- After truck has not been running for 10+ hours, when I go to start I cannot seem to get fire until I have cranked the engine 3 or 4 times (for around 5 seconds each time)
- Once it starts, it seems as if it is flooded with fuel as smoke emits (which does not occur any other time)
- Directly after the truck starts, fuel leaks onto the ground from what appears to be the drivers side of the engine. This ceases fairly quickly, but is consternating nonetheless.

My initial guess is that I have a fuel line leak which is allowing pressure to gradually release and forces the fuel pump to build up the pressure upon the next start. However this does not explain the short term fuel leakage after the cold start.

Any ideas or similar problems conquered???

Thanks,

 

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What injectors did you decide? And how is it going with your truck now. I have the same year, doing the exact same thing. Thanks Ryan