I am looking for instructions on how to change spark plugs in a V-10 Superduty. Info like special tools needed, what needs to be removed, how long it takes, etc.

I found some info on the V-8 and can use that but would prefer hearing from someone who has done it on the V-10.

Thanks.

 

There were (3) answers here but they got deleted
So do a search in the V10 forum.

 

There was a problem with the database just around the time I posted that LENGTHY speech...

Guess it got lost... here it is again:

Haven't done it to my V10 yet, but have done both my 4.6L's multiple times.

A few givens:

The V10 has COP - coil-on-plug. Everytime you change the plugs, you should also change the boot on all the COPs. I've seen them for $3-$5 each. Also, get dialectric grease. ALSO very important - you need an air compressor to blow out the plug holes multiple times.

List of materials:

10 COP boots
10 spark plugs (Motorcraft original equipment GREATLY prefered)
1 air compressor and a nozzle that can fit down into the spark plug hole.
1 bottle anti-sieze (the greasy silver stuff)
1 unit of dialectric grease - medium size (a few ounces?)

You can remove all the COPs at once, or one at a time, whichever you prefer.

1) Remove COP - only one bolt holds it on. Make sure the boot comes with it, otherwise, fish that out (needle nose pliers).
2) Blow air into the hole, making sure the nozzle gets all the way down to the bottom of the hole - you can use a piece of vacuum (or larger) hose if you don't have a nozzle that long. WEAR GOGGLES!
3) Loosen spark plug carefully - do NOT turn it more than one turn!
4) Blow more air into the hole - loosening the spark plug will loosen more dirt. Keep at it.
5) Remove plug
6) Take a picture, and post them here (optional)
7) Apply small amount of anti-sieze to the threads of new plug - only enough to coat the threads, do NOT get it on the combustion chamber side.
8) Install plug and torque to specs (not sure what that is offhand - someone else will answer that one).
9) Apply dialectric grease to tip of boot that seals against the plug. Also, apply a small amount around where it seals to the COP - install on COP.
10) Install COP w/boot into the hole, first coating the outside of the boot with dialectric grease, not a lot, just enough to cover the seal area.
11) Reinstall bolt and connector to COP.
12) Repeat 10 times

Differing opinions (and rightfully so) about blowing air into the hole after the plug is out - if the valves are open, that might blow stuff into the motor that you wouldn't want. I would probably make sure to get a hose stuffed all the way into the cylinder before blowing it out.

art k.

And:

Oh, one other thing, or more:

Sockets - use a 5/8" spark-plug socket with the rubber insert to grab the plug - however, when you do the first turn-and-blow, that rubber insert will keep the socket on the plug when you pull out the extension - so, take it out for the first turn, and then put it back so it pulls the plug out.

Various-length extensions. You will need quite a few different-length ones... I personally wouldn't use a u-joint, but rather use a swivel head 3/8" ratchet - in the Superduty, you should have enough head-room to get the ratchet on a straight extension instead of using a u-joint.

Torquing down the plugs can be a pain - try to get the smallest-length torque wrench you can, that should help. When you torque down the plugs, make sure the extension is as straight-up as possible! If the extension is pushed to one side, you can get much more (or less) torque than the wrench will read.

I never got the idea of a rubber hose to put the plug back in - didn't these people ever hear of the rubber-insert in the spark-plug socket?

 

Thanks for the info krewat. I think the rubber hose idea is to hand thread the plug in so you are sure you haven't crossthreaded it. You can do this with the rubber-insert socket as well.

Several years ago I got a rubber spark plug installer (made by Champion I think). I always use it to hand install spark plugs before putting the socket on it.

 

No problem - sounds like you have a handle of the mechanics of the job

 

Good post, Art

I would like to throw in one option: After step 5 I would get a mechanic's mirror and a flashlight and take a good look at those threads...especially if I bought a used truck.

 

The torque spec on the v10 is 11 foot pounds no more no less

 

one thing tho the new plugs ford has released are 9/16'' socket. so the old ones may have a 5/8'' base but the new replacement ones have 9/16''.

 

Ok a real dumb question for you wrench heads. To torque the plugs, would you prefer to use a wrench that reads in ft/lbs or in/lbs? Most have the foot/lbs wrenchs, but I was thinking that the error margin on a ft/lb wrench would make it questionable for something where we are using such small numbers. A ft/lb wrench with a range of +/- of 1 ft lb is +/- 24 in/lbs. Also most wrenchs work best at settings in the mid range correct? this would make an in/lbs wrench set at 132 a better fit, or am I way over thinking this? StevenG

 

I'm going to be using my inch-pound torque wrench, just because it's smaller than my behemoth 150ft/lbs wrench

12 inch/lbs per ft/lbs...

 

Yes use an inch pounds torque wrench 132-140 inch pounds

 

Is this for the '06 models? I take my '99 model all the way to 14 and that takes into account the anti-seize factor.

 

2002 F350 V10 Triton 6.8L. I just changed the plug and cop on the #10 cyl because it coded as a misfire and was "chugging" at idle. It smoothed out a little bit, but not like it was before - about 4k miles ago it ran like new and then I think I got some bad, watery gas. I wasn't happy because I never got the feeling that the boot seated properly on the plug, though I tried several times - no click like I've heard on other vehicles. I have no idea when the other plugs were changed. If I can figure out how I'll post a pic of the plug I pulled (pretty black & rounded off). Should I go thru and change all the plugs or the plugs + COPs (I'll at least replace COP on #5, as I hear it's a bear)? And what am I looking for when I inspect the COPs? Oh - it has about 175k on it.

 

To each their own but I found this site founded by a Ford master mechanic. I had read 18-20 ft/lb somewhere but derned if I could remember where when trying to verify it for Krewat on another thread/discussion. I thought there was a tsb about it but haven't been able to find yet.

The q&a is interesting reading throughout but #25 and 37 is regarding his recommended torque. Check it out FAQs

 

Well now I'm really confused. I've heard "11 ft/lbs, no more no less"; 132 in/lbs; 150 in/lbs; 12-14 ft/lbs with anti-seize; 25 ft lbs dry; and now 28 ft lbs. I torqued mine to just over 132 in/lbs with anti-seize and guess I won't be driving it again until I get a better consensus. It's a 2002 F350 V10 Triton.