I'm new to the site and am hoping to find lots of info about my truck. I haVE A 99 F250 PSD. This morning I went out and noticed that my camber was jacked! The wheels look like an old TTB. How do I sjudt the camber to get my wheels back in check. I jacked the truck up and shook the tire. I didn't notice in excessive play. Seemed pretty tight to me. Anyway, any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

 

First off....welcome. You've definitely come to the right place for information.

Need some info. from you.
I take it, that this is not a 4x4; jacked up with alot of chassis mods. Just a plain jane F250.

If so, I'd have it checked by a front end alignment shop. It may be fine. I've seen some strange front wheel cambers that I would have sworn had a ball joint problem, but didn't. Just something to think about.

 

thanks for the welcome. as for the specifics, i have a 4x4 with the stock wheels and 265/75/R16s on it. i didn't really notice it that bad until I rotated the tires. once i did that it became apparent something was wrong. this morning is when i really saw the evidence.

 

On my 00 4x4 there is no camber adjustment. The top ball joint does have a camber sleave like most trucks, but it is notched, and mates with a tang on the steering knuckle.
I'm thinking that the tire lean may be caused by either a bad lower ball joint or a bad bearing hub. As I stated earlier.....a front end shop could be your best bet for determining what is wrong. Then it would be up to you wheather to tackel it yourself or have someone do it for you.

 

If you have to do an camber adjustment, you will need to take it to an alignment shop unless you can measure the camber. There are measurements they need to decide what sleeve you need if you need a sleeve. Here is a section from the procedures for 2000 Camber and Caster Adjustment — F-250, F-350 4x4 and F-450, F-550

3.Check and note the amount of camber in the current camber adjuster sleeve.
4.Select a new camber adjuster sleeve.
lThe camber change required to obtain the optimum settings must be added or subtracted from the amount of camber in the old or production camber adjuster sleeve.
Use this example as a guide. If the LH wheel camber must be reduced 1 degree and the existing camber adjuster sleeve has a +0.5 degree of camber, select the -0.5 degree camber adjuster sleeve.

 

The only way to get a good alignment is to take it to a shop with a "GOOD" alignment tech. You can have the best equipment in the world, but if nobody knows how to use it, then it is no good.

On straight axle Ford 4x4's, the best camber is 0 degrees, however it is better to be a little negative tham positive to compensate for whatever you may want to load in the bed.

The caster and camber are adjusted by an eccentric bushing on the top balljoint. Toe adjustment is adjusted at the tie rod. Remember that caster is NOT a tire wearing adjustment, only toe and camber.

You can check ball joints by jacking up the truck so the tire is just about an inch above the ground, then take a long bar, screwdriver, pry bar...whatever and lift up under the tire. If it is not tight and is sloppy, chances are you have a worn ball joint(s). It is also good to look at the ball joints while somebody is lifting up on the tire because just a tiny bit of play can cause alignment problems.

One more thing to remember, it is impossible to knock a vehicle out of alignment. BUT it is possible to damage front end parts from impact, or just plain wear and tear.

 

thanks guys. i have plans to take it to a allignment shop monday. the joints felt tight to me but like you said, i didn't have anyone looking from the front. i appreciate the info and hope that not too much is involved in the fix.

 

I had the same problem with mine when I got it, I could see the camber was off, just like you described. The spare was worn horribly, inside of tire was about bald and the outside had most of the tread.
I took it to our local mechanic that has been really good for us and does really good alignment work. He said it was within specs and didn't need any work. But I could visually see the camber was off, and tire wear showed it. My dad took it to work (works at local dealership) and had the alignment guy there check it, and he agreed it was within specs, but he fine tuned it so it was perfect. Night and day difference! Handles better and wheels are straight now.
So what I'm saying is, if one shop says its fine, go to another one until you can get someone to make it perfect.

 

My F250 is pulling to left a bit. I have to maintain some pressure on the steering wheel to the right to make it go straight.

To it to the alignment shop, toe and steering whhel position were adjusted.

Caster is were it should be. Truck has 4 inch lift so its using specialty products sleves to correct caster

Driver side 23268 Cam +.50 / Cas +2.3
Passenger 23269 Cam +.30 / Cas +2.6

Alignmet shop says that I need to adjust the driver side camber since its a -1 degree. All other numbers are spot on. Ill rotate the sleve a bit to get some camber but I dont think this is the culprit.

Any other ideas on why it would pull to the left? How about a misaligned rear axle? Or a bad steering damper?

Thanks

 

Could be a lot of things. Mine used to pull to the right on me and since I put new tires up front it stays where I put it. I'm glad I didn't go on a goose chase trying to track it down.

 

 

Thanks pirate 4x4

what is a slide pin? Do you mean the caliper?

Tyre pressure checked

Caster is within the allowable limits with the Bushing suggested by Specialty Products

Camber off -1 on driver side but I doubt this is the problem.

 

Thankyou walleye hunter

Actually problem started around when I put new tires. Nitto Exo Grappler 35x12.5. Before I had mud Terran 37x13.5 on it and didnt really feel the pull. But Mud Terrain Tires feel loose and wondery on pavement anyways so maybe were masking the problem.

Today after 5000km I rotated the tyres front to back to see if this was the problem, and it wasnt. Tires seem to be wearing fine.