patching floor boards
#1
#2
I did this repair on my 82 F100. I bought repair panels from jeff's bronco graveyard. Cut the old metal out with a cut off wheel and weld in the new piece. It took me about 4 days per side to fix. Fred
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...=57666&width=2
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...=57667&width=2
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...=57666&width=2
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...=57667&width=2
#4
Thanks its alot of work. What year truck do you have? I have some more pictures if you need some help.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...&albumid=12758
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...&albumid=12758
#6
Here's what I did on my Bronco. Since it is used for fishing, hunting and is not a show truck--strictly utility--and because I don't have a welder, I used fiberglass. first, I cut out all the rusted areas back to good metal. Using fiberglass sheets, I carefully placed three layers over the holes, which were just like you describe.
After those cured, the areas seemed as solid, if not more solid, than the rest of the floor pan. I then went underneath and sprayed undercoating over the fiberglassed and adjoining areas, after making sure I was not spraying it on any rusted areas.
That was nearly five years ago and the repair has held just fine. However, if I had the equipment, I would have done what 1982fordf100 did to his.
After those cured, the areas seemed as solid, if not more solid, than the rest of the floor pan. I then went underneath and sprayed undercoating over the fiberglassed and adjoining areas, after making sure I was not spraying it on any rusted areas.
That was nearly five years ago and the repair has held just fine. However, if I had the equipment, I would have done what 1982fordf100 did to his.
#7
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#8
Originally Posted by 1982fordf100
I did this repair on my 82 F100. I bought repair panels from jeff's bronco graveyard. Cut the old metal out with a cut off wheel and weld in the new piece. It took me about 4 days per side to fix. Fred
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...=57666&width=2
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...=57667&width=2
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...=57666&width=2
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...=57667&width=2
#10
Originally Posted by Ford150/428/dud
When i had to patch my floor boards i just cut sheetmetal off of my dads box sides on his 77 with the sawzall. Its ok the truck is on its way to the bone yard.
#11
Originally Posted by woodzracer
My '87 has a small hole right at the inner edge of the trough under the door sill. My question is how much does the patch panel you used cover and how mutch did you cut out? Mine seems real solid except for the hole and down in the trough there is some surface rust. Can you give me an idea as to how much you cut out and disassembled. Thanks
http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-...n_80-96_lh.htm
#13
wow, how did you get your steel sheet so cheap. i bought a 4x8 piece of 18 ga last fall and was 65 bucks at the steel distributer here in green bay. Did you check around any of the places that sell replacement panels. Maybe one sells just a section unstead of the whole pan, don't know.
I think thats what he is trying to get rid of LOL
Cut them out and pop in a clear piece of plexiglass for your floorborads. Wouldn't it be neat to watch the road go by as you drive?
#14
Originally Posted by kenseth17
wow, how did you get your steel sheet so cheap. i bought a 4x8 piece of 18 ga last fall and was 65 bucks at the steel distributer here in green bay. Did you check around any of the places that sell replacement panels. Maybe one sells just a section unstead of the whole pan, don't know. I think thats what he is trying to get rid of LOL
#15
After looking a little closer (with my eyes open this time) I finally understand how the cab is put together. When the floor pan makes a 90 degree bend downward to form the inner part of the wiring channel it runs along side and is spot welded to the rocker panel. That is where I got confused. So now I know all I have to do is cut out that floor section, drill out the spot welds and cut a matching patch out of my donor truck, weld it back in and I'll be good to go. It looks much easier than i thought, but thanks to all for your help.
P.S. alot of times steel can be had cheaper in small pieces if you ask the distributor for mill ends. Most steel comes in coils (rolls) and the distributor unrolls it and cuts it into whatever size pieces they need. When they get to the end of the coil, whatever is left is considered a mill end.
P.S. alot of times steel can be had cheaper in small pieces if you ask the distributor for mill ends. Most steel comes in coils (rolls) and the distributor unrolls it and cuts it into whatever size pieces they need. When they get to the end of the coil, whatever is left is considered a mill end.