I had to make my first oil and filter change on my '95, 3.0 liter Ranger. I had a hard time trying to get to that oil filter. I tried it from the top and from the bottom. Getting it off was rather easy, but trying to screw that thing on was another story. Does anyone have any tips on making this job easier? I had the same engine on my '90 Taurus and had no problem because the engine was mounted transversally and the filter sat right in front. But not so with the Ranger. I have a hunch you just have to bite the bullet with another of Ford's after thoughts.

 

Donald,
I have a 91 Ranger 3.0L and i remove my filter from the top. Mine is on the driver's side and it is just below the oil dip stick and above the starter. When i'm not being careful i can count on getting a burn from the exhaust manifold.

I use an oil filter strap wrench which can be bought at any automotive store. When screwing the new filter back on i just reach down and wiggle the filter onto the threads until i know that it is lined up. Then you just twist it tight by hand and then a turn or so more with the wrench to snug it up nicely. Hope this helps, it's a lot easier job than working on a 4.6 merc cougar!

-hooD

 

Hi Don,

Your post made me recall an email I received from Bob Ayers many months ago wherein he passed along a tip regarding an alternate way to loosen up a stuck oil filter on a 3.0L Ranger vulcan. He even took some pics.

This seems like as good a time and place as any to pass along Bob's tip to the rest of the forum. I don't think Bob will mind me doing this, so I will even quote the relevant part of his message:

 

AWESOME!! Rock
I bought a Vulcan Ranger a few months ago.
Now I can't wait to grab my pry bar and knock the filter loose.
I would do it now but it is -3 deg in my garage :-(

 

I go through the side. Reach over the wheel, and through the splash guard. Mind you, I have a specialized filter plier from Mac Tools that I bring home from work.

Similar to these: http://www.channellock.com/acb/store...&Product_ID=26

Only mine have more teeth, and have a red Mac Tools handle.

 

Getting it loose never seems to be the problem though. Its getting the thing lined up and threaded on thats the pain. They didnt leabe much room for guys with any meat on their forearms.

 

I would venture to guess that you could get a filter relocation kit fairly cheap. that way you could put it up on the fenderwell or wherever you want to.

 

Be careful with the little drip funnel between the filter and the starter...it's a great idea but really should be constructed a little more sturdy, it's too flimsy.

 

I always use the stock motorcraft filter (FL-400S). I crack it free with a regular oil filter wrench from up top. I remove it from underneath and the is barely enough room in between the frame and the heat shield for the starter to force it out. As for installing the new one, i snake it in under the steering shaft and then grab it with my free hand and then line it up. I have 52K on my truck this is the best way i've found. oh yeah and do it when the engine is cold so you dont burn yourself on that exhaust manifold. I usually drive is about half a mile so the oil flows better, and then rotate the tires first while it cools down again.

 

Yeah, there's no easy way to do it. The first time I changed mine I got burned good. Still have the scar. Now I drain the oil and then let her sit for about an hour to cool. And yes, getting it started on the threads is the toughest part. Filter relocation kit, huh? Would probably be a pain to install at the present location end, but interesting enough to look into!!!!!!!!!

 

I still have my scar from my oil change that I did in July. I had gloves on but the edge of the glove got caught on the exhaust and I couldn't get my hand out of there. My scar is the size of a quarter on my right wrist. The last time I changed it I couldn't get the damn thing loose and my filter wrench was slipping. I put some duct tape inside of the wrench and it quit slipping but then the filter with the wrench stuck on didn’t fit between the frame and the exhaust.

 

One of Ford's better ideas!!!!!!!!!!

 

I agree with bigrigfixer.....for me on my 98 4x4, going in from the side and moving the splash guard out of the way seems to be the easiest way, especially to get it on. If you turn the wheel all the way to the left before starting, it makes it even easier (I don't jack mine up....probably wouldn't turn the wheel if you do). For me, it always seems that draining the oil is the worst part. It never fials that I always hav ethe drian pan a little too far forward or back, and the oil shoots out all over(the pavement and me) before i can get the pan moved.

 

No problem at all Joe, I hope it helps somebody else out!!!!

 

Hi Bob,

I bet you did a double-take when your saw your truck and tool in the pics.