Changing the heater core
#16
Here's my question - I"m going to be pulling my dash out for some other work so should I change out my heater core since the dash will be out anyway? I do know this is a big job - and for the 50 bucks or so for a new heater core do you think it'd be worth it? How life limited are these stock heater cores? Is it kind of a crapshoot or because of coolant not being changed? Or is it common they fail after 10 years or so? my 98's never been changed and I sort of think if its broke, don't fix it - yet if I"m going to have the entire dash out now would be the time rather than have it go out in a year and wish I'd changed it now... Is there much risk to having the replacement leak because of improper installation or is it pretty fool proof packing it in snug and tight?
Any of your thoughts???
Any of your thoughts???
#17
Good time to spray evaporator/ductwork for "funny odors?"
Has anybody had an anti-freeze odor coming from their vent ducts as a result of the anti-freze wafting through the plastic channels and coating them? If so, is there something to spray in there that will dissolve/eliminate the resdue that wont be poisonous to breathe afterward? I have had odors from my a/c during the summer - kind of a musty mildew smell at times - is it OK to spray the evaporator with something like Febreeze or some other deodorant? Anybody out there done this with bad results (i.e. evaporator corrodes through due to chemicals in spray cleaner)? Hoping to hear back from someone on this topic - thanks from a "newbie"
#19
Could someone please send me the instructions on how to change the heater core to
j.butt@miamicountyymca.net
Thanks Jon
j.butt@miamicountyymca.net
Thanks Jon
#20
Welcome to FTE j.butt! Go to this link and click on the word "here" it will take you to the document requested. Good luck!
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/3...ml#post5294447
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/3...ml#post5294447
#21
dude don't waste your time with the clamps. i pryed em off and then cut em off. then i put adjustable clamps when i put em back on. i did this over a year ago and have checked them a couple times a month since, give em a nice hard tug, never came loose nor leaked whatsoever.
other than that, i'd say follow that word document. the first time i did it, it took me a while. i had to do it two more times though because i lost a couple screws and the noise they were making drove me nuts. i found em both, and each time it took me about 45 min to get everything done (partial dash removal, etc.)
oh and you don't hafta unplug all the wires and stuff, theres only a couple you absolutely need to unplug due to lack of reach (just make sure the battery is disconnected!!)
p.s. if you need the word document, i may be able to send it to you via email. so email me at atramont@uno.edu with the subject "Heater core" and i'll see if i can find it once i get my laptop back from the repair shop
other than that, i'd say follow that word document. the first time i did it, it took me a while. i had to do it two more times though because i lost a couple screws and the noise they were making drove me nuts. i found em both, and each time it took me about 45 min to get everything done (partial dash removal, etc.)
oh and you don't hafta unplug all the wires and stuff, theres only a couple you absolutely need to unplug due to lack of reach (just make sure the battery is disconnected!!)
p.s. if you need the word document, i may be able to send it to you via email. so email me at atramont@uno.edu with the subject "Heater core" and i'll see if i can find it once i get my laptop back from the repair shop
#23
Htr Core instructions
1. Disconnect the battery.
Its repeated in the instructions as a warning not to procede unless the battery is completly disconnected. Just like the illustration shows.
2. Your Expedition's console may be in the way of the dash when you try to pull it out to expose the heater core plenum. If it is, then Yes remove what you need to move the dash out far enough to access the Htr core.
The back page of the instructions shows the expedition addendum.
Heres the link to the instructions
javascriptl('http://my.voyager.net/~sscully/F-15097HtrCoreRepairF150_Exp_002.doc');
Best of luck,
dfkelly42
Its repeated in the instructions as a warning not to procede unless the battery is completly disconnected. Just like the illustration shows.
2. Your Expedition's console may be in the way of the dash when you try to pull it out to expose the heater core plenum. If it is, then Yes remove what you need to move the dash out far enough to access the Htr core.
The back page of the instructions shows the expedition addendum.
Heres the link to the instructions
javascriptl('http://my.voyager.net/~sscully/F-15097HtrCoreRepairF150_Exp_002.doc');
Best of luck,
dfkelly42
#25
"what about the battery to starter relay cable where is it located"
Refer to the illustration in the instructions, (Step1) The cable your refering to is the Positive connection at the battery. That connects directly to the remote starter solenoid. Disconnect both cables "at the battery".
Best of Luck, here's a quick link to the instructions online
javascriptl('http://my.voyager.net/~sscully/F-15097HtrCoreRepairF150_Exp_002.doc');
Don
For 1997 (and later) F-150 and Expedition models.
Allow yourself all weekend to get it done but dont be surprised if you get it completed in 4-8 hours. (even less with help) I could have saved alot of time if I didnt have to learn these lessons the hard way. The service manual recommends removing the dash completely, dont bother, it just needs to be pulled out far enough on the passenger side to access the heater core plenum. Just follow the instructions and skip the steps labeled "optional"...
If you read the instructions all the way through you'll see what I mean.
Here you go, ...
Be patient with it, have "all" your tools ready and take it one step at a time...
Don
Refer to the illustration in the instructions, (Step1) The cable your refering to is the Positive connection at the battery. That connects directly to the remote starter solenoid. Disconnect both cables "at the battery".
Best of Luck, here's a quick link to the instructions online
javascriptl('http://my.voyager.net/~sscully/F-15097HtrCoreRepairF150_Exp_002.doc');
Don
For 1997 (and later) F-150 and Expedition models.
Allow yourself all weekend to get it done but dont be surprised if you get it completed in 4-8 hours. (even less with help) I could have saved alot of time if I didnt have to learn these lessons the hard way. The service manual recommends removing the dash completely, dont bother, it just needs to be pulled out far enough on the passenger side to access the heater core plenum. Just follow the instructions and skip the steps labeled "optional"...
If you read the instructions all the way through you'll see what I mean.
Here you go, ...
Be patient with it, have "all" your tools ready and take it one step at a time...
Don
Last edited by 97fordf150; 09-20-2010 at 12:20 AM. Reason: adding information
#26
Hello everyone...a newbie here. Been reading about replacing the heater core and I have to admit, it sounds intimidating but have no choice but to do it myself. My question is, besides having no heat, defrost, etc., is there any harm done by by-passing the heater core until I have both time and money to replace it? Thanks.
Wayne
Wayne
#27
Hello everyone...a newbie here. Been reading about replacing the heater core and I have to admit, it sounds intimidating but have no choice but to do it myself. My question is, besides having no heat, defrost, etc., is there any harm done by by-passing the heater core until I have both time and money to replace it? Thanks.
Wayne
Wayne
yes - you can by pass the heater. we used to do this back in the 60's to avail the engine of all the cooling we could get.
when you do get around to replacing the core - don't forget to replace the heater blend door also. only makes sense to do it while you've got the dash apart.... or you'll be back under there to do the blend door.
trust me - I learned the hard way.
#28
I guess that proves that information is timeless! Thanks for your response. Good advise on the door replacement too. Got it on "cool" right now to by-pass the smell. Thank God spring's comin'!
#29