Proper Engine Flushing Coolant Procedure, 2001, 4.6
#1
Proper Engine Flushing Coolant Procedure, 2001, 4.6
Hello Fellow Forders,
I've got a 2001 Supercrew with a 4.6 liter engine and 71,000 miles. I believe the engine has the original factory coolant and I'd like to change it. I've read the tech article in this forum about engine coolant flushing and my question is: How do I know how much 50/50 mix to put back in the radiator?
If, according to the article, I keep flushing the system with water and engine cleaner until it runs clear, then how much water is left in the system after the radiator has been drained?
If, say the system holds 20 quarts (for the sake of an example), and after I drain the system 10 quarts of water remains, then I would need to pour 10 quarts of antifreeze in the system to get a true 50/50 mix in the ENTIRE system. Am I thinking about at this properly?
Also, how do I know what antifreeze I've got besides being green, or is green a specific type. What does Ford recommend?
Any help is greatly appreciated,
Jack
I've got a 2001 Supercrew with a 4.6 liter engine and 71,000 miles. I believe the engine has the original factory coolant and I'd like to change it. I've read the tech article in this forum about engine coolant flushing and my question is: How do I know how much 50/50 mix to put back in the radiator?
If, according to the article, I keep flushing the system with water and engine cleaner until it runs clear, then how much water is left in the system after the radiator has been drained?
If, say the system holds 20 quarts (for the sake of an example), and after I drain the system 10 quarts of water remains, then I would need to pour 10 quarts of antifreeze in the system to get a true 50/50 mix in the ENTIRE system. Am I thinking about at this properly?
Also, how do I know what antifreeze I've got besides being green, or is green a specific type. What does Ford recommend?
Any help is greatly appreciated,
Jack
#2
When I flushed mine I bought a flush kit (cleaner) and a couple of gallons of coolant. I used the coolant from my local auto store that is NOT pre-mixed.
This is what I did:
1.) Drain radiator
2.) Fill completley with water
3.) Run for 10 minutes with water (idle)
4.) Drain water
5.) Fill back up with water
6.) Run for 10 minutes with water again (idle)
7.) Drain water
8.) Fill with the cleaner kit I bought and water
9.) Ran for 15 minutes (actually drive it this time, nothing over 50 MPH)
10.) Drain water and cleaner
11.) Refill with water
12.) Run for 10 minutes (idle)
13.) Drain water
14.) Add 1 gal of coolant, add 1 gal of water, and keep on going this until full.
15.) Your done, keep a eye on the coolant level
Now this is what you call a FULL flush. Well, you could drain your engine block but oh well.
This is what I did:
1.) Drain radiator
2.) Fill completley with water
3.) Run for 10 minutes with water (idle)
4.) Drain water
5.) Fill back up with water
6.) Run for 10 minutes with water again (idle)
7.) Drain water
8.) Fill with the cleaner kit I bought and water
9.) Ran for 15 minutes (actually drive it this time, nothing over 50 MPH)
10.) Drain water and cleaner
11.) Refill with water
12.) Run for 10 minutes (idle)
13.) Drain water
14.) Add 1 gal of coolant, add 1 gal of water, and keep on going this until full.
15.) Your done, keep a eye on the coolant level
Now this is what you call a FULL flush. Well, you could drain your engine block but oh well.
#4
When I flushed mine I bought a flush kit (cleaner) and a couple of gallons of coolant. I used the coolant from my local auto store that is NOT pre-mixed.
This is what I did:
1.) Drain radiator
2.) Fill completley with water
3.) Run for 10 minutes with water (idle)
4.) Drain water
5.) Fill back up with water
6.) Run for 10 minutes with water again (idle)
7.) Drain water
8.) Fill with the cleaner kit I bought and water
9.) Ran for 15 minutes (actually drive it this time, nothing over 50 MPH)
10.) Drain water and cleaner
11.) Refill with water
12.) Run for 10 minutes (idle)
13.) Drain water
14.) Add 1 gal of coolant, add 1 gal of water, and keep on going this until full.
15.) Your done, keep a eye on the coolant level
Now this is what you call a FULL flush. Well, you could drain your engine block but oh well.
This is what I did:
1.) Drain radiator
2.) Fill completley with water
3.) Run for 10 minutes with water (idle)
4.) Drain water
5.) Fill back up with water
6.) Run for 10 minutes with water again (idle)
7.) Drain water
8.) Fill with the cleaner kit I bought and water
9.) Ran for 15 minutes (actually drive it this time, nothing over 50 MPH)
10.) Drain water and cleaner
11.) Refill with water
12.) Run for 10 minutes (idle)
13.) Drain water
14.) Add 1 gal of coolant, add 1 gal of water, and keep on going this until full.
15.) Your done, keep a eye on the coolant level
Now this is what you call a FULL flush. Well, you could drain your engine block but oh well.
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#5
When I "flushed" mine, I opened up the drain on my radiator and let it drain completely. Then I started the truck and let it run until the thermostat opened. When it did, I put the garden hose into the overflow tank and left it going (circulating through the block) for about 10-15 minutes.
After that, I drained the radiator, and started the procedure over again with 50/50 mix until the 50/50 started comming out the radiator drain. I then closed up the drain and filled it up with 50/50.
My coolant is still brown. I have never seen a Ford truck without brown coolant (except for my bronco I just got).
After that, I drained the radiator, and started the procedure over again with 50/50 mix until the 50/50 started comming out the radiator drain. I then closed up the drain and filled it up with 50/50.
My coolant is still brown. I have never seen a Ford truck without brown coolant (except for my bronco I just got).
#6
#7
Determine your coolant system capacity, divide by 2, then add that much coolant.
The procedure I follow is guaranteed to provide exactly a 50/50 coolant-water ratio and a complete flush.
1.) Drain radiator
2.) Remove upper radiator hose/thermostat housing
3.) Remove thermostat
4.) Reinstall upper radiator hose/thermostat housing without thermostat
5.) Fill completley with distilled water
6.) Run for 1 to 2 minutes with distilled water (2000 rpm)
7.) Drain water
8.) Fill back up with distilled water
9.) Repeat steps 5-8 until the drain water looks clean (usually about 5 times depending on how dirty the system was)
10.) Install NEW thermostat (preferably Motorcraft)
11.) Pour the predetermined amount of coolant into the coolant reservoir
12.) Top off with distilled water until the desired coolant level is achieved
13.) Add 1 bottle of Redline Water Wetter (Optional)
14.) Check coolant level after a drive and top off with distilled water if necessary.
Once the new thermostat opens up the coolant and water will be properly mixed by the water pump. I also recommend flushing the system with distilled water to avoid any mineral deposits remaining in the system, which is what will happen if you flush with tap water. The Redline Water Wetter helps the efficiency of the coolant system and it also helps prevent electrolysis/corrosion, extending coolant life. I am not a believer in coolant system flush additives unless the system has significant buildup due to an extreme lack of maintenance.
CHANGE THE THERMOSTAT! More engines are lost to stuck thermostats than just about anything else.
The coolant will remain 99% as green as it came out of the bottle up to 40,000-45,000 miles or so following this procedure.
The procedure I follow is guaranteed to provide exactly a 50/50 coolant-water ratio and a complete flush.
1.) Drain radiator
2.) Remove upper radiator hose/thermostat housing
3.) Remove thermostat
4.) Reinstall upper radiator hose/thermostat housing without thermostat
5.) Fill completley with distilled water
6.) Run for 1 to 2 minutes with distilled water (2000 rpm)
7.) Drain water
8.) Fill back up with distilled water
9.) Repeat steps 5-8 until the drain water looks clean (usually about 5 times depending on how dirty the system was)
10.) Install NEW thermostat (preferably Motorcraft)
11.) Pour the predetermined amount of coolant into the coolant reservoir
12.) Top off with distilled water until the desired coolant level is achieved
13.) Add 1 bottle of Redline Water Wetter (Optional)
14.) Check coolant level after a drive and top off with distilled water if necessary.
Once the new thermostat opens up the coolant and water will be properly mixed by the water pump. I also recommend flushing the system with distilled water to avoid any mineral deposits remaining in the system, which is what will happen if you flush with tap water. The Redline Water Wetter helps the efficiency of the coolant system and it also helps prevent electrolysis/corrosion, extending coolant life. I am not a believer in coolant system flush additives unless the system has significant buildup due to an extreme lack of maintenance.
CHANGE THE THERMOSTAT! More engines are lost to stuck thermostats than just about anything else.
The coolant will remain 99% as green as it came out of the bottle up to 40,000-45,000 miles or so following this procedure.
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#8
#10
I hear that. Quiet frankly, I'm tired of doing my own maintance when I can go to the dealer, pay a couple bucks more and look over the lot. Maybe put a few miles on, and some rubber off, a test drive.
Mike
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