79 f100, 302.

Going to install Holley manual 2 BB choke carb. Tired of these electronic chokes by Motorcraft.

Once installed are there anything special I need to do as far as adjusting anything, like the adjusting the tension on the cable for the manual choke. Are most new carbs set where they need to be as far as idle/mixtures should be?

I live on the east coast, where the coldest temps at the max in the winter are 30 degrees.

What is the best way to operate a manual choke, when starting up for the morning?

 

The manual chokes are pretty straight forward. The cable isn't spring loaded so there's really no adjustment to make.

Put the carb on and run the choke cable from the cab to the carb. Push the choke cable all the way in (in the cab) and make sure the flap on the carb is all the way open. Attach the cable to the flap and you're done. Just make sure that when the **** in the cab is all the way in the flap is all the way open.

You'll have to use trial and error in using the choke. Sometimes it takes a lot and sometines it takes very little. I have a Holley 750DP on my 460 and never use the choke. But that could be because I don't have it adjusted right.

As for adjusting the idle mixtures, see my post in the BIG BLOCK forum about "tuning my 460/Holey 750". I got a lot of good advice there from guys who know what they're doing.

Good luck.

Kevin K.

 

If you're an "all manual" guy, here's just a thought: I have a manual choke Holley 2bbl on my old International. I have the manual choke, with its fast idle cam, AND a manual throttle. The choke will advance the idle when it's applied. But sometimes you want a fast idle and you don't need all that enrichment. Granted, I work it offroad quite a bit, use the 10,000 lb. PTO winch to pull logs, and have an assortment of work lights, so maybe I have more use for a manual choke than the average guy. But a throttle can be handy. They used to be common. The dash of the '48 Dodge one-ton Dad used to have, or the '52 Dodge heavy half ton he has now, will show factory choke and throttle *****, (as well as a factory "panel" light switch next to the headlight switch). Just thought I'd toss that thought out there.

 

on my truck the colder it is and the longer between starting it the more choke it takes to keep running. As it warms up I adjust the choke as needed.

 

On the Holley,(2bbl) does the manual choke operate the choke plate only, or does it ALSO operate a fast idle? I have a 302 from 73, I HATE that Motorcraft choke...

 

P.S. How do I hook up a manual throttle, sounds excellent...I assume I use an additional cable, like the choke cable, but where do I hook it up, and what is used as a clamp to hold the housing?

Thanks!

 

I would assume your Holley, like most manual choke carbs, has a fast idle cam.

On my International, the throttle cable is a separate cable, anchored to a separate support. From the end of the wire cable, there's a short chain to the throttle linkage on the carburetor. This way, the hand throttle can PULL the throttle open, but if you're opening the throttle with your foot on the accelerator, you're not pushing against the hand throttle wire. You want to make sure the two can't fight each other.

My throttle cable is one of those big industrial looking black ***** with a large red button in the center. Turning the **** counter clockwise pulls the throttle out for higher rpm. Hitting the red button in the center releases it to spring back to idle. You don't have to get that carried away if you won't want to. There are some nice chrome "T" handled throttle cables. You just twist the handle to lock into position.

Have fun.

Lane

 

I also got so tired of fighting the auto-choke stuff on the 2 motorcraft carbs I had before that I put the Holley on. The 2300 2-barrel manual choke operates the choke and the fast idle. A separate throttle cable would be great although the fast idle speed can be adjusted and if it's all working right that should be enough. I like the Holley a lot; idle quality, mileage, and performance are all better with it than either of the auto-choke motorcraft 2150 carbs I had on there before.

I found that it's critical you adjust the idle mix screws correctly on the Holley or the choke overwhelms the idle (tries to flood). I used a vacuum gauge to set mine. I ran my idle screws in until vacuum started to fall off, and then backed them back out until the vacuum just came back up. No extra 1/8 or 1/4 turn or anything like that that some people call for. That finally let the choke work correctly and also brought my mileage up to a better (but still disappointing) 10 mpg. However, that's up from a low of 7.5 mpg so it is better. Not great, but better.

I was hoping to be able to get it into at least the 12-16 range, but that's apparently not to be. The truck is just too big and heavy for anything better. Due to the overall poor mileage I leave it parked for the most part now. Just not very practical as a daily driver!

 

65CJ5, what engine do you have, and how much tuning was involved in a swap from the Motorcraft to the Holley 2300?
Thanks!

 

78 f150 351M and C6 AT
I checked my EGR plate to make sure it wasn't too boogered up and it was OK. Then all I did was pop the Holley on there using the thin gasket it came with, and set the curb idle. All the linkages and stuff hooked up without any problem. I also re-jetted it from the #61 (sea level) jets it came with to #57s due to my altitude. Later I set the fast idle and idle mixture screws. Setting the idle mixture was the critical thing for me to get the choke working right.

 

Mine was easy 300 cid with the pathetic carter yf-a 1bbl. Attaching a manual choke kit was a piece of cake.....but then the whole engine/carb is easy on this truck. That's my 2 cents.