Hello,
I have an '89 Ford ranger with a v-6. After driven for about 20 minutes the valves start to rattle and soon after the oil light comes on. I started it back up after cooling off. It ran fine at first and then the same thing started again. Could the oil pump start to die with the heat? Truck engine temp seems normal. Oil changed not too long ago. Thank you for any help. I really need it.

 

I have an 85 which acts similarly. Having had conversations with Ranger owners, & reading a number of forum posts, it seems that the OE oil pumps used in Ranger engines are barely adequate. After significant wear from high mileage (or abuse) occurs in then entire engine (not just the pump), it can no longer keep up with the demand. It is accentuated when it gets hot, because the actual viscosity of the oil drops (even though it is multi-vis). Other individuals who know more about it than myself have strongly suggested replacing the stock pump with a high volume pump. Until you find the time, money, & enthusiasm to replace the pump, you can "band-aid" the situation temporarily. When you're ready to change your oil, BEFORE you do, start the engine cold, and pour some crankcase flush in SLOWLY while it idles. Let it idle at least 15 minutes, DON'T DRIVE IT! Then, drain the oil pan as per usual, but put a higher viscosity oil in (like 20W-50). The next time you drive it long enough to get good & hot, observe its behaviour. If the oil light still wants to come on, and/or valve noise occurs again, add a little STP oil treatment WHILE IT'S HOT & RUNNING! Don't add it to a cold engine! If one bottle of STP doesn't do it, you COULD slowly add a second bottle, but try to avoid it if possible. You don't want your cold start viscosity too high.

 

The Ford 351M/400's did this a lot also. I would not put STP in it to stop the problem. If heavier oil does not solve the problem a HV pump can be used. Unfortunately both are band-aid solutions that can still leave you stranded somewhere. The only real solution is rebuilding the engine.

-Sorry


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They are known for having camshaft bearings get too much clearance, and then the lifters clack and eventually it dies. Band-aid is the correct description for putting in a hi-vo oil pump or heavier viscosity lube. Covers the wound, but does not heal it.

There is no quick fix except turning the truck upside down and shaking the engine out. Turn it shiny side up, and pop in a new one! Easy as pie. I wish.

tom

 

I agree about the cam bearings but it could also be a clogged pick-up screen on the pump. There are also modifications that can be done to the valve train to improve the upper oiling.

 

Clogged pickup screen from silicone RTV buggers and Penzoil carbon flakes.

Same worn bearings as in a 400?? I can't wait to tear down my 400 and analyze the oiling system. Just a little hydraulic design problem. No biggie! I also suspect a manufacturing problem in the intersection of some of the drillings, since it does not happen to ALL 400's. But that is not a problem for this forum...

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Are we speaking about (orginal post) a specific V6 (or any specific designs w/in the V6 family) and are there any PREVENTATIVE measures that can be taken (other than potentialy damaging "flush" chemicals? Does pre-filling the oil filter at changes help along these lines and would an occassional MMO "bath" (added to the fuel) help with modern upper-cyl. lubrication? How about using that (TALL-PAUL) "solution" of Shaler's Rislone (small amounts 10-20% run for short periods of time) or even the same w/ ATF - though one of the "guys" was saying ATF, though very high in detergent, is also very thin, and will "find" leaks - or could it cause leaks?

Thanks in advance, Glenn . . .

 

The only thing that Rislone may help with in this case is to dissolve some carbon/varnish crud on the oil pickup screen. At this point in addition to worn cam bearings the oil pump probably looks like it has been pumping sand. A replacement HV pump and screen will "band-aid" the problem for a while but the only real solution is a total rebuild. This engine is close to total failure. Oil metering in the top end will not solve the problem at this point either, improving top oiling will probably make it worse.

Sorry guy, but my 400 is going thru the same failure mode and I have already replaced the pump with a HV unit about 10,000 miles ago. In the summer I now have about a 20 minute range b4 the lifters start to rattle. B4 the pump change I had about a 15 minute range. The pump change gave me another ~8000 miles of normal driving. My bearings are just shot and deteriorating rapidly. I just hope I don't spin one or throw a rod b4 the rebuild.

The only preventative is regular oil changes and high quality oils and filters. Pre filling the oil filter does not do any good, it doesn't hurt either. I pre fill if the engine sat without an oil filter and drained for a long time (hours). Otherwise there is a tremendous amount of oil in the oil passages and bearings. There is a big discussion thread on pre filling in the Garage Forum if you are interested.

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