Power Door Lock Problem on 2000 F250
#1
Power Door Lock Problem on 2000 F250
I am having a door lock problem on the passenger side door of my truck. It won't work off the keypad and it wont work off the controller on the door. It sounds like it might be a solenoid. Anybody ever encounter this? Also I am getting an intermittent door ajar signal which is probably related.
#3
#7
Defective door locks it seems
My 2000 f350 i replaced 3 of 4 door lock actuators. They would work sometimes and not others. They are poorly made from what i was told by ford. Mine went bad about 100k. The front was hard to remove. There is a tab in there that you gotta press but it gets pressed and pushed at the same time it is about 1/2 inch by about 1 1/2 inches long. Then i found out it slips off sometimes once you put the new one in so it stops working. But I just have to click in place. I finally tye wrapped it to the door frame so it wouldn't move. The door slaming seems to make it come loose. Maybe I broke something putting it in. I fought it on instalation then figured it out. It was easy once i could see in the door with a mirror and flashlight. Hope I remember when they go bad again...
Regards,
Doug
Regards,
Doug
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#8
Replaced my original actuators with OEM'd
My 2001 F-250 SD door lock actuators got so bad I went to using a key! I bought a pair of OEM actuators from:
http://www.commandoalarms.com/itm30005.htm and mounted them under the latch inside the door using screws supplied where the door starts to round up.
They fit nicely in this position but it does require forming a stiff piece of 1/8" push-pull wire with 90 degree bends to the hole in the latch where the old actuator arm was located. It took me a few hours of time but when I was done the lock actuators worked flawlessly using the existing 2 wires that went to the old actuators. Wire plug needed to be removed and end conneted to the new actuators that were installed. Two holes had to be drilled in the inside door metal to mount with screws supplied. stiff wire length was about 8" for each door. Be careful to route wires so the window does not lower onto them. position use tie wrop or tap to be safe.
The reason I went the OEM route was because of all the post on lock actuators in FTE. Not a job for the faint of heart but about the same difficulty as changing spark plugs on a 2001 F-250 SD 5.4 ltr. Hey it was almost fun again!
http://www.commandoalarms.com/itm30005.htm and mounted them under the latch inside the door using screws supplied where the door starts to round up.
They fit nicely in this position but it does require forming a stiff piece of 1/8" push-pull wire with 90 degree bends to the hole in the latch where the old actuator arm was located. It took me a few hours of time but when I was done the lock actuators worked flawlessly using the existing 2 wires that went to the old actuators. Wire plug needed to be removed and end conneted to the new actuators that were installed. Two holes had to be drilled in the inside door metal to mount with screws supplied. stiff wire length was about 8" for each door. Be careful to route wires so the window does not lower onto them. position use tie wrop or tap to be safe.
The reason I went the OEM route was because of all the post on lock actuators in FTE. Not a job for the faint of heart but about the same difficulty as changing spark plugs on a 2001 F-250 SD 5.4 ltr. Hey it was almost fun again!
#9
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#11
Originally Posted by oddjobs2do
When did they change the door locks....I replaced mine in 2003 but imagine the othe ones were originals? JUst wondering if i have a bad set of new ones still.,
Doug
Doug
Left, 3L3Z25218A43-AA
Right, 3L3Z25218A42-AA
Joe
#12
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#15
If you have the time this is the fix.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...-pictures.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...-pictures.html
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