Have a 1999 F-150, 4.2 liter. Takes about 20 minutes to start, engine turns fine, took it to the local ford dealership to put it on the computer everthing checked out. And the truck started fine at the dealership. It seems the problem is only ini the mornings. Any help would be appreciated.

 

Hi and welcome to the forum
Can you leave your truck overnight at the dealer so they can check it when it wont start? If I was working on it I would probably start by hooking up a fuel pressure gauge before I tried starting it and see what the fuel pressure does.

 

Hi ewylie,
Here's a TSB released by ford that covers your truck's no start condition.
Although i'm leaning toward the fuel pressure area also.

Try this one morning when you know it will be difficult to start.

Before you start cranking
Turn the ignition to the run position but not all the way to the start position.
You should here the hum of the fuel pump coming from the back and your dashboard lights should light up.

Turn it back to the off position.

Repeat this at least 5 times.

Now, turn it all the to the start position to see if it will start normally.
If it does, then you know you are losing some or all of your fuel pressure overnight.
Next to figure out why. Maybe fuel pressure regulator.
Hope this helps.



Starting System - No Crank/No Start Condition
Article No.
01-21-8


10/29/01

<TABLE cellSpacing=2 cellPadding=1><TBODY><TR vAlign=top><TD>^</TD><TD>DRIVEABILITY - NO CRANK, NO START -
CORROSION OF THE STARTER CABLE B+
TERMINAL AT THE STARTER SOLENOID

</TD></TR><TR vAlign=top><TD>^</TD><TD>STARTING - NO CRANK, NO START - CORROSION
OF THE STARTER CABLE B+ TERMINAL AT THE
STARTER SOLENOID

</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>FORD:
1997-2000 F-150



ISSUE

Some vehicles may exhibit a no crank, no start condition. This may be caused by corrosion of the starter cable B+ terminal at the starter solenoid due to a reaction between dissimilar metals (steel nut used to attach the battery cable to a brass stud on the starter).

ACTION

Whenever the starter or harness is replaced, the new brass/tin plated nut (W706414-S413) replaces the old service steel nut. Follow the appropriate model year Workshop Manual for harness and starter replacement procedures.

NOTE IF CORROSION HAS DAMAGED THE STARTER CABLE END (CRACKED, ERODED METAL), THE APPROVED PROCEDURE IS TO REPLACE THE HARNESS.
DO NOT ATTEMPT TO REPLACE THE STARTER CABLE EYELET.

 

I have had the condition you describe happen to me. I repaired the cable because a new one is very expensive.

 

Thanks for the tip n2dfyreigo, will try it.

 

That did it. my truck won't start, did the pressure check you told me about, "turn to run, then back na drepeat 5 times" the truck started right up. Now I know what the problem is. Any thoughts on how to track it down. Thanks for all your help.

 

Here's what the Haynes manual says could be the problem if the fuel pressure isn't being held when the truck is off:

a. The fuel lines may be leaking
b. The fuel pressure regulator may be allowing the fuel pressure to bleed through to the return line
c. A fuel injector (or injectors) may be leaking
d. The fuel pump may be defective.

 

Hi ewylie,
Glad to see your having some luck narrowing this down. Here's an easy
way to check your pressure regulator.

1) Start engine and run for about 10 seconds.
2) Key off, wait about 10 seconds.
3) Start engine again and run for 10 seconds.
4) Key off, remove vacuum hose from fuel pressure regulator port.
5) Check for gas inside the vacuum hose and inside or on the regulator port.

If you do find gas in this area, then you know its bad.

This will be easier to do with a flashlight or shoplight.
Remember to discharge potential static electricity since you will be working
around gas. Just touch the truck on the fender before you get near the
fuel rail in case you do have a fuel leak.


Here's a web page with a picture from a 1998 f-150 pressure regulator.

http://www.geocities.com/n2dfyreigo/...ssure_reg.html

Post again with what you find out.

P.S. Found one at advance for $50.