Can someone please post a picture or at least type out the firing order of the motor and coil pack for a 1998 f-150 4.2L

ex:
motor

firewall
x x
x x
x x
front

coil

firewall
x x
x x
x x
front

engine light is on and had the code read..... #5 missfire.


thank you!

 

Why, do you think that your plugs are crossed and your truck is firing out of order???? If that were true, you'd have a much bigger problem than simply throwing a code. I don't even think your engine would start, and if it did, it would run so bad that you wouldn't need a code to tell you something was misfiring. You sure it ain't something else? did you recently take off ALL of your plug wires at the same time and then put them back on without marking them???? Give us some details. The firing order IS listed in your manual, i just don't have mine on me right at the moment.

Tom

 

Hi tom, i just wanted to know which one it was so i could check that particular plug/wire. I am going to replace them all. I have replaced them all before one at a time when i had the same code, that was about 15-20k ago. The truck idles a little rough and seems to miss fire, but no back fire. Also i bought the truck used a couple years back and did not come with a manual.

thanks
paul

 

Hmm, makes me wonder why that one plug keeps going bad. What type of plug are you using?? You should get more than 15-20k out of them, unless they're just plain copper plugs. Heck, for 2 bucks each, i'd just replace them all again.

Tom

 

I will say i used autolite this last time, but that was before i did some reading on this board about them. I am going to get the motorcraft from the dealer. This is the 2nd time i have received this code for this cylinder. I'm not much of a mechanic but some people who hear my truck say "what's the noise?"

 

The 4.2V6 naturally makes a ticking noise. All of them do. It's been discussed many times. This noise is normal. Switching to a 5w30 or any heavier weight oil will significantly reduce this noise.

I run Autolite Platinum plugs and found that they work perfectly. However, if your sceptical about aftermarket plugs then just toss the motorcrafts in there. They're a great plug too. The only reason I don't use them is that they are very very expensive here and hard to get. Mostly, I have to order them over the internet because the dealer doesn't even stock them (the dealer network for Ford is terrible down here). I've been running Autolites for about 15K miles now and haven't had any problem, truck runs great. But you'll get mixed feelings about autolites here.

On the other hand, I've tried some NGK's (which I run in ALL of my motorcycles) in my truck and they stunk!!!! But other people swear by them. So just because someone says they had a bad experience with a particular item, it doesn't mean they won't work great for you.

Proper gap is very important also. Alot of people assume that when they buy plugs they are already gapped to spec, but they are not. And they need to be properly gapped before installation.

The Autolites factory gap is WAAAAAAYYYYYYYY off of Ford spec. I mean WAAYYY off!!!!!!, which is why you probably read alot of people complaining that they don't work right, because they probably buy them and just toss them in assuming that they are already gapped. That's where they run into the problem.

Nothing wrong with Autolites, they are one of the biggest spark plug companies in the world. They didn't get there from manufacturing an awful product. You just need to set the gap to spec before installing them, that's all.

Tom

 

firewall
engine
3 6
2 5
1 4
front

firewall
coil
3 4
2 6
1 5
front
Firing order; 1-4-2-5-3-6
I recommend using Motorcraft plugs!

 

thanks guys!!!! exactly the advice and info i was looking for!!!

 

ok paul i had to replace the coil pack and the idle air control on mine. and still doesn't start. i have checked the firing order and is correct. any ideas as to why it want may not start.

 

I am having an issue with cylinder 1 misfire on my 2000 4,2 v6. I changed all plugs with motorcraft 1500 miles ago, just changed the #1 wire, coil pack and a new plug in #1. No water in block or oil, but an issue with spark plug being really fowled. Does anyone have any thoughts on this? In regards to spark plugs i always use motorcraft. Never had an issue at all.

Also, it has a real rough and loud idle when started and obviously is misfiring. However, when run at high rpm's and 70 mph it dramatically smoothes out. I am told a possible compression issue and to do a compression check. I am not able to do so right now, but hope it isn't a piston or ring. There is also a high top end rattle and valve rattle. Father in law says it may be a hole in the piston. Any help would be appreciated.

 

I did the coil pack, the wires and all new plugs. Mine starts but sounds like hell when it does get going. Fuel or fire are the obvious first things to look at. Spark plug gap should always be done since plugs settle from the shipping. I always use motorcraft plugs.

Now with that in mind, maybe look at the fuel delivery system. You may have a bad fuel pressure regulator, a clogged fuel filter or a bad fuel pump or simply a fuse that went out for fuel delivery. Just a thought. In addition, i would put the key in the ignition and try to listen for the fuel pump whinning. It is a low zzzzzzzt. Do not crank, just get close to cranking and when you power on the fuel pump should whine. You can hear it with the doors closed and quiet outside or in the garage. If not you might need to check out the fuse for the fuel delivery system. If not the fuse, then maybe the 12 v pump went out. I would definitely change the fuel filter if you havent already done so. Always a good practice. If you use seafoam, which i highly reccomend, then the octane and additives may have dislodged some tank trash and caused a clogged filter which wont let you start the vehicle.

If this is not your issue, sorry. It would then be a possible compression problem. This would also cause the motor not to start if bad enough. This could be a piston, ring, valve etc... I would think though, it isn't so. Usually a big give away when the rings or valves or pistons go.

The other possibility is you have a bad timing chain, timing issue or broken chain.

I am a good shadetree, and have had the timing issue do the same. No starting of the vehicle. I dont have a lot of valve, ring, piston troubleshooting experience, but am told a good possibility. I may have to do a complete rebuild on my 2000 4.2 v6.

Good luck and hope this helps you somehow.

geoffrey

 

you mention a "rattle" from the top end.

There have been a few broken rocker arms reported here and if memory serves me well, the symptoms are pretty much what you describe.

Maybe worth pulling a valve cover?

 

That would be great if it were a rocker arm instead of a valve, ring or piston. What would a clogged fuel injector sound like? Similiar? Im going to pull the upper air plenum and Intake off. Clear all the egr holes well, install new gaskets and maybe install new head gaskets while i'm there. I have heard bad reports of intake gaskets going bad and also head gaskets and egr being blocked.

I have been smelling a strong antifreeze odor for the last month off and on. I suspect the heater core, but possibly a gasket leaking a small ammount. Drained radiator, added new anti-freeze and some prestone radiator liquid sealer and water pump lube. Does anyone have some thoughts or similiar experiences with the smell and the engine issues? never overheated or even got hot.

 

I am experiencing a ticking in my 2004, F150 4.2l. Only noticiable with engine loaded between 700-900 rpm and goes away with engine rpms above 900. I plan on adjusting the rocker arms this weekend before digging deeper and replacing the lifters. Any recommendations? Where can I find documentation that describes the 4.2L ticking as a normal event?

 

not sure where you might find any official documentation.
The 4.2 is known to have a tick/click at lower rpm related to oil pump I believe it is. Nothing wrong or broken - just a characteristic.Most noticeable when (for example) sitting at the drive through window with a wall immediately to your left.

If you are unsure of the source of your noise, buy a mechanic' stethoscope and use it to find the area of origin.