I have a 1993 f250 7.3 diesel 5 speed. I need someone elses opinion. this year i noticed i had to push in the clutch harder to get the truck to start. now i have noticed it is getting harder to shift into first and second. i know the clutch starter switch is not bad, because i can pull it up with my hand and it starts fine. so i know it must be in the travel of the clutch pedal. the clutch pedal seems to have some slop where it joins on the shaft the switch travels on and the i guess fork. my clutch does not slip at all. need advice please

beach

 

This is typical of the clutch going bad on the 7.3 diesels. Your truck came equipped originally with an 11" clutch and dual mass flywheel. Ford recommends replacing the dmfw at the same time as the clutch. Luk makes a conversion which will increase your clutch size to 12.25" and is a smoother more durable clutch than the original. Give me a call if you need additional info. 888-462-2739

 

do you think an adjustable master cylinder rod will buy me a little more time. thanks for responding

 

I doubt it. You can only depress the diaphram fingers so far which they are probably at the max now. I would also suggest replacing the master and slave while doing the clutch especially if you go with the Luk unit. Let me know if you have any additional questions or give me a call. 888-462-2739

 

one more question mr. clutch. I ordered factory service manual today. also today i took apart linkage from master cylinder to the fork pedal. the master cylinder linkage was worn the back part was still a circle, but the front part that gets all the pushing was clearly worn to a egg shape. i think this is why i am getting so much pedal play. the pedal is moving a good2-3 inches before any pressure is felt. i am going to replace that rod first, cheaper is better, right. but my real question is if and when i do the clutch, how difficult is it, I have done a clutch in 2 ford escort front wheel drive and it was easy. but i have not done a 4 wheel drive truck. my fatherinlaw has no faith that i can do it. but i would rather do that than attempt an auto tranny swap. can you give me some hope. i am going to try that rod first , because it was really worn.
thanks
greg beach

 

That would be a good place to start. Also on the earlier trucks like yours they have had problems with firewall flex. Make sure you are not getting alot of flex at the fire wall. If you are Ford has a 15 fix for this as well. As for the clutch replacement it is pretty straight forward. Nothing to complicated. Keep in mind though this is not an escort tranny it is much bigger and heavier so have a trany jack.

 

thanks for your help. linkage ended up being the problem. i didn't even have the plastic bushing that is supposed to be there. so it wore the fork flat and the clutch master cylinder rod. thanks for your help $33 beats $333.

 

The Ford dealership doesn't want to help with the fix kit. I have the very problem you mention. Do you know where the kit can be purchased and for how much?

 

i ended up buying a new clutch master cylinder at oreillys. it is exactly the same as the stock one, and it has plastic bushing, and a lifetime warranty, but you will have to get the metal linkage arm at the dealer or you could try rockauto. I had to go to the dealer.

 

The plate that fixes fire wall flex is just a square piece of flat stock with a hole in the center for the clutch rod and two holes for the master cylinder bolts to go through.

I think it was about 4" square and 3/16" thick, but that repair was several years ago on my 86.

To check for firewall flex, have someone push the clutch to the floor while you watch the clutch master cylinder.
If the master cylinder moves, you need to reinforce the fire wall.

The reinforcement plate goes on the inside of the cab, so it does not affect the length of the push rod..

 

bsckona,
Welcome to FTE and the IDI diesel forum.

 

I've been battling my clutch problem for the past few years. I had to "stand" on it all the way to get it to disengage, and it engaged as soon as I lifted my foot slightly. A new clutch and master/slave did not fix it.

What did fix it was help from this web site. I never heard of the fire wall flex issue until I saw it here. The next day I called my Ford dealer, and believe it or not the parts man knew the part number off the top of his head. The plate cost $5.25 and he had one in stock. The bushing was 11.50 or something, but 30 minutes later the clutch was finally the way it was supposed to be. I am thrilled, and it cost under 20 bucks!

Thanks to all who posted that info!

Wayne

 

There are two repair kits for the firewall flex issue. There is the cheaper version which has been mentioned and a version that if memory serves me cost over 150 for the part last time I got one. I think I had to pull the column, pedal assembly,booster, and clutch master to install it but it fixed the issue and didn't make me have to weld the firewall where it tore.

 

yes, this one was a simple bolt on plate. The trick was getting the top bolt back on the master cylinder, it's not exactly in the easiest spot. I suspect a lot of people have chased clutch problems on these trucks that were really an issue with the firewall. It sort of dissapoints me the shop I had look at it did not figure it out or know about it.

wayne