I need to remove my rotors to have them turned. I have removed the 3 Torx screws and the cover plate. There is an aluminum piece next that I can't get to come off either side. It doesn't seem to have a lockring. Does it screw off? Also I have heard bad stuff about rotor warpage. I haven't had the truck but 7 months and now I have warped rotors..

Gary

 

This is a huge task. I did it last summer. There is a ring clip in there but it is very hard to see. I suggest you get a factory manual, or maybe a chiltons has good instructions. I got the factory manual and it was pretty good. The real hard part is istalling the new rotors onto the hub. You need to torque the lugs through the hub and rim (being very careful). This is the only way to get the lugs to seat good. If you do this wrong you can warp your new rotors. Torque the lugs in small increments. Also, be careful when you tighten the axle bearing lock nut (you need a special socket). It will also rotate the inner nut - binding the bearings. You have to try this a couple times to get it right. Make sure there is a little end play in the bearings when you are done to allow for expansion when the hubs get hot.

 

Thanks for the info. I've got a Haynes manual and it doesn't have much info at all on it. I'm sort of scared to mess with now.

 

I just took my auto hubs off my 95 F-150 2 weeks ago. I did myself a favor and switched to the manual hubs right away. The Ford tech said that was a good idea too. The standard Warn hubs were about 70 and you have to get a special adapter kit from Warn as well, which I think was close to 120. I didn't need to do this, but I'm glad I did. Once you are stuck with the auto hubs on the 95 you will not get out, the wheels have to turn one revolution for them to lock, for me that was not an option. I'm very happy with my manuals.

To get that ring clip off I purchased a dental like pick. I had one person push in on the aluminum hub protruding to release the pressure off the clip, then managed to get the pick under the clip and it was easy. The first one took an hour, the second wheel 3 minutes.

One question for everyone. I repacked my original wheel bearings, which looked good. Cleaned out the old grease and used disc brake wheel grease to repack them. I also torqued the new adapter lugs correctly and found that with the wheel on I could barely get it to turn one full rotation giving it a good spin. My question is, is it ok for the hubs to get hot, and I mean after towing my boat 50 miles I could not hang onto the hubs they were so hot. Could I have gotten the bearings too full of grease, and the lugs too tight to push on the bearings?

 

Its best to use a torque wrench when adjusting the wheel bearings . Initial torque should be 70 Ft Lbs as you work the hub back & forth , Back the the adjusting nut 90 degs & then retorque to 20 Ft Lbs , there should be 0 play in the hub & it should turn fairly easily . Hubs will get warm , but they shouldnt be so hot that it burns to touch them .

 

Thanks for the info Paul. I believe the conversion kit instructions said 50 ft lb, then back off 90 degrees, then torque between 30 and 40. I know they are close to 40 lb, but this was with one of the bending bar torque wrenches, not sure how accurate they are. I was hoping that they were running hot from the extra grease and that it would go away, but maybe I should retorque them to 20 ft lb.

I'm not looking forward to taking them off because with the kit it is basically two nuts and a lock washer. The second nut was torqued to 160 - 210 ft lb. That was not fun with a wrench that went to 150 ft lb, I was waiting for it to snap.

Joey