I am posting this for a friend who has a 93 F150 5.0L with E4OD tranny and 137,000 miles.
He is experiencing no power "doggy" and getting only 12 miles to the gallon. He has replaced all of the sensors, with no improvements. Recently while checking the timing, for the first time, he discovered that the SPOUT connector was missing and the timing was set at 22 degrees. He promptly got a SPOUT connector and set his timing to 13 deg. After setting the timing he noted that his timing moves from 10 deg. to 16 deg and back again, this does not change when the SPOUT conn. is removed. He is getting frustrated with all of the work and no improvement. Could it be in his control module? Has anyone had his problems? Any and all suggestions will be considered.

 

Keep the SPOUT CONNECTED (except to set initial timing). The SPOUT is a advance cut out for setting initial timing. Once the initial timing is set re-connect the SPOUT and let the computers advance and retard the timing like it's supposed to.



As for the low power and Sucking down gas like a kid drinking Coca-Cola.........Usual tune-up stuff and pay particular attention to vacuum lines, and connectors, the vacuum can (coffee can), and EGR. Clean or replace the EGR, check the coffee can for splits or rusted holes (esecially around the end seams.)
Make sure all the sensors are working, and the Catalytic converters are not clogged. (Check this with Vacuum gauge. Look in Chiltons/Haynes for test details).

Tire pressures, bearing tensions, etc.

Larry

 

It sounds like it could be a CAT problem.

Jakegypsum // Ford fleet, soup to nuts.

 

Also remember to erase the trouble codes. The easiest way is to disconnect the battery for a few seconds (you will need to reset your radio and clock again) or if you have a code reader, end the code test before it is finished reading the KOEO codes. The truck may run funny for a few minutes until the computer relearns the parameters. Drive it around then retest the trouble codes again.
If you have a code 111 you are all set, otherwise do more troubleshooting. Good luck.

 

Low gas mileage can also be caused by worn ball joints and a front end that is badly out of alignment. Not uncommon for a truck with 137,000 miles.

Check the basics, such as:

new fuel filter
new air cleaner
spark plugs
clean the contacts on the inside of the distributor cap.
make sure spark plug wires are clean and not arching
set ignition timing
change the motor oil and the filter (good for 1 to 2 mpg for first 500 miles)

 

I'm curious as to why the "coffee can" would effect mileage. Doesn't the ecm cut off vacuum to the evaporative emissions system shortly after the system is purged at startup?

 

[font size="1" color="#FF0000"]LAST EDITED ON 25-May-01 AT 10:39 AM (EST)[/font][p]The coffee can is a vacuum "RESERVOIR". Some accessories require a semi-constant vacuum supply and this levels out theplaying field between the intake manifold and the accessories.

One side is directly connected to the manifold vacuum (side with check valve) and the other side is connected to the evap system (no check valve)and suppplies other vacuum accesories.

If the can is wasted (split, corroded, or otherwise breached) then you get a constant vacuum leak, like if you took off a vacuum line from the manifold. It'll run but it'll run like #$&^.

I was getting about 10mpg and rough idle on my '87. noticed that the top of the "CAN" was split and was leaking.

Changed out the can with a new one from Dealer ($47.00) and idle smoothed out and gas mileage went to 13-14. NO CHANGE IN DRIVING HABITS.

Larry

 

hey lary, what size engine do you have? I just bought a '90 1/2 ton 4x4 reg. cab long box with the 302 and it is getting 12.7mpg last time I filled it up. (tonight) This is with 30 miles to work on highway and in town use. It has been used more in town than out so it should be over 13 when i get more highway miles instead of intown. I figure it was getting about 10-11 in town before i started work out of town. The truck has a dual exhaust but I don't know what kind because it was there when I bought it. I know fords suck gas like no other truck but is this about right? Im thinking about adding an FIPK and a Superchip. Mostly to increase power but the added gas helps too. Thanks

 

map senson has some to do with timing i know it can make an idle roll but not exactly how much it has to do with timing

 

[font size="1" color="#FF0000"]LAST EDITED ON 26-May-01 AT 03:13 PM (EST)[/font][p]gamehunter:

totally stock '87 f-150, standard cab, long bed, 4.9 L6, T-18b 4spd, 3.55's.

113,800 miles, no leaks, no smoke, ALL GRUNT!!!!

This is my 1st ford in over 15 years. The only one I had with a v-8 was wife's 1st car, a '65 Mustang 289/2V(she was original owner). The motorcraft Carb was a piece of #@&^%*$!! Hard to start in AM, crap for Gas mileage (sub 10). Got an adapter plate and put a Rochester 2-GC with a manual choke and got better than 18 on the highway and 14 in town. Ran cleaner (had it sniffed and passed 1984 standards for FED.) and was easiest thing to start in the morning. 1/2 a pedal, pull choke, let off pedal and crank for about 3 seconds. Never had any problems with that car afterwards.

all the rest have been L6 cars. Love the inline 6. Had 2 '61 Falcons, 1 with a 144, and 1 with a 170, a 66 mustang with a 170, a 78 granada (wife's also) with a 200. Never had a lick of problem with any of them.

And I'll ADMIT to having a 1958 Chevy Biscayne, a 60 Chevy Belair, a 62 Rambler American 400 Station Wagon (reclining front split bench and a drive-in....WHOOO HOOOO) and a 67 C-10 Short Bed PU ALL with INLINE 6's.

Larry

 

Larry;
Is there any chance you put a vacuum guage on your 300 before you changed out the can? Mine's pulling 19" at idle, so I don't think I've got a leak, but I'm curious if you did a before and after.