Removing the coffee can?
#1
Removing the coffee can?
What does it do? Why disconnect it?
I traced the vacuum hoses from my "coffee can" last night. One runs into a muliple port connection on the right side of the truck, and the other runs into what looks like an overgrown EGR valve on the left side of the truck, above the fuel/water separator.
Can somebody explain the advantages to me?
I have a Banks Sidewinder on my 6.9...will removing the coffee can have an adverse effect with this set up?
I never heard of this mod before, but I've been seeing it metioned here in a few threads. Any info is much appreciated!
I traced the vacuum hoses from my "coffee can" last night. One runs into a muliple port connection on the right side of the truck, and the other runs into what looks like an overgrown EGR valve on the left side of the truck, above the fuel/water separator.
Can somebody explain the advantages to me?
I have a Banks Sidewinder on my 6.9...will removing the coffee can have an adverse effect with this set up?
I never heard of this mod before, but I've been seeing it metioned here in a few threads. Any info is much appreciated!
#4
#5
#6
#7
Same thing on a diesel.
Vacuum storage to run the cruise control, heater vent control, C 6 automatics and brake booster.
Some use a small ball looking reservoir instead of the coffee can type.
I think you are refering to the soup bowl removal.
A naturally aspirated motor may have an air cleaner top that looks like this.
Ford installed the soup bowl to make the intake quieter, but it hurts performance.
So the thing to do is remove the soup bowl.
Your Banks turbo should have taken care of that already, but I have seen a Banks air cleaner lid that looked almost like the picture.
I would not remove the coffee can, braking may suffer when you have less vacuum in reserve.
Vacuum storage to run the cruise control, heater vent control, C 6 automatics and brake booster.
Some use a small ball looking reservoir instead of the coffee can type.
I think you are refering to the soup bowl removal.
A naturally aspirated motor may have an air cleaner top that looks like this.
Ford installed the soup bowl to make the intake quieter, but it hurts performance.
So the thing to do is remove the soup bowl.
Your Banks turbo should have taken care of that already, but I have seen a Banks air cleaner lid that looked almost like the picture.
I would not remove the coffee can, braking may suffer when you have less vacuum in reserve.
Last edited by Dave Sponaugle; 07-05-2007 at 10:28 PM.
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#9
You can use a 4" grinder with a cut off wheel.
Several people have used a sawz-all with a metal blade.
Some E series motors had a flat top air cleaner lid if you have a salvage yard close by.
How ever you cut it off, you have to be careful you do not cut the top of the lid and cause an air leak that would be bypassing the air filter.
Several people have used a sawz-all with a metal blade.
Some E series motors had a flat top air cleaner lid if you have a salvage yard close by.
How ever you cut it off, you have to be careful you do not cut the top of the lid and cause an air leak that would be bypassing the air filter.
#10
I recommend strongly against removing the coffee can. It's not a performance upgrade, and I agree with the earlier post that speculated a possible confusion with the "soup bowl".
Removing the "coffee can" will do away with your vacuum reserve. If you use your brakes and then find that you need to stop suddenly again right away (as in pulling out of an intersection and then stopping to avoid an accident), you might find that you have a hard pedal and won't be able to stop your truck as quickly. Having a vacuum reserve is crucial to preventing loss of boost to your brakes.
Removing the "coffee can" will do away with your vacuum reserve. If you use your brakes and then find that you need to stop suddenly again right away (as in pulling out of an intersection and then stopping to avoid an accident), you might find that you have a hard pedal and won't be able to stop your truck as quickly. Having a vacuum reserve is crucial to preventing loss of boost to your brakes.
#11
#12
On a gas engine, you will find the vacuum resevoir(coffee can) hooks to the the vacuum tree through a check valve. The HVAC vacuum line also hooks beyond the check valve with a tee connection to the coffee can. This is so when you pull a long hill in a gas engine, and you start losing vacuum, the check valve closes and the resevoir starts supplying the vacuum to the HVAC to keep the air vents from switching back and forth when the vacuum does go low.
I haven't seen a diesel setup yet, but I would imagine if it has a check valve in the line, and is tee'd into the line going to the HVAC, that it has the same purpose-to stablize the vacuum controls in the HVAC system.
I haven't seen a diesel setup yet, but I would imagine if it has a check valve in the line, and is tee'd into the line going to the HVAC, that it has the same purpose-to stablize the vacuum controls in the HVAC system.
#13
Diesel vacuum is supplied by a pump that is belt driven.
Pulling a hill does not affect the level of vacuum.
Try stopping one with no vacuum to run the brake booster.
You may want to install a second coffee can after the first stop without a vacuum assist on the brakes.
Vacuum is a bad thing in a diesel engine intake manifold.
It means the air filter is way to dirty.
Pounds of pressure in the intake manifold is a good thing.
Pulling a hill does not affect the level of vacuum.
Try stopping one with no vacuum to run the brake booster.
You may want to install a second coffee can after the first stop without a vacuum assist on the brakes.
Vacuum is a bad thing in a diesel engine intake manifold.
It means the air filter is way to dirty.
Pounds of pressure in the intake manifold is a good thing.
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