When you post a question please tell us about your truck so we dont have to guess. We need to know the year of it, 4x2 or 4x4, what size engine, 7700 lb package or not, approx how many miles and anything else that might help

Just a reminder that if you need to edit something in your post, such as a spelling mistake, or if you want to add to it, you have an hour after you submit a post to edit it. Just hit the "edit" button at the bottom of your post.
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Q: I'm getting terrible gas mileage on my truck. What's wrong?

A: These trucks are notorious for poor gas mileage. Unless you’ve noticed a drastic decrease in your normal mileage, your low MPG is probably not related to a mechanical fault. The fuel economy numbers on the window sticker are determined by the EPA based on a standard testing method under optimal conditions. Your normal driving habits and routine probably in no way resemble the EPA’s test.

There is no single magical item that will “fix” your mileage. Most users on this site combine several mechanical enhancements. It’s all about how much money your willing to spend up front to save some over time. Here are the most commonly recommended methods for increasing mileage.

- K&N high flow air filter. This type of air filter permits a higher rate of airflow into your engine, while still providing adequate filtering. The easier it is for your engine to breathe, the less it has to work. Best of all, the filter is re-usable, only needing to be cleaned every 50,000 miles. This means you will never have to buy another filter again. There has been much heated debate on this site regarding K&N’s. In the end, most users find a slight gain in HP and a 1-3 mpg increase.

- High-flow exhaust. Back-pressure in the exhaust system reduced engine performance and hence worse mileage. A performance exhaust permits easier expulsion of exhaust gasses, which makes it easier for the engine to work. Typically users prefer FlowMaster mufflers, but there are many options. In addition to the muffler, the exhaust pipe size and header size have a lot to do with the amount of back pressure on the engine. Check out the Exhaust forum for a discussion of different options.

- Plugs and wires. A quality set of plug wires and spark plugs help to keep your engine producing maximum horse power, which in turn helps your MPG. There are many types of plugs so your choices are endless. You can never go wrong with the manufacturers’ recommendation, but there are performance plugs available if you want to spend the money. Most users recommend some type of double platinum plug, such as the ones made by Motorcraft or Autolite. For tips on replacing your spark plugs see https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=104027

- Electric Cooling Fan. Your stock truck uses a cooling fan driven by your engine. Powering the fan clutch and the fan with all its blades needlessly wastes horse power that could otherwise be used to power your truck. A popular, albeit expensive solution to this is to remove the stock fan and replace it with an electric fan. There are several aftermarket electric cooling fans designed for this purpose.

- Tonneau bed cover. The theory behind this is that your tailgate creates drag at high speeds. The Tonneau cover provides an aerodynamic surface to air to flow across the back of the truck. You won’t find much mileage increase in city driving, but at highway speeds you may pick up 1 or 2 mpg.



Q: My door ajar light and dome light are constantly on, even when the door is closed!

A: This is a common problem in the 97 and later trucks. It has to do with a micro switch in the door latch. It’s this switch that determines when the door is open or closed. If it gets dirty and gummed up, it doesn’t operate properly, never registers the door closing. This is what keeps your dome light, door ajar light, and chime all active. Fortunately, the fix is simple and cheap. Open your door and heavily spray WD-40 into the door latch. Really drench it. Open and shut the door a few times and repeat. This will clean the switch and restore normal operation.


Q: My truck idles roughly or stalls at idle. What could be the problem?

A: A fairly common idle related malfunction in these trucks seems to be the Idle Air Control valve motor. This valve sits on top of the throttle body and holds the butterfly valve open at idle so the engine can breathe. A sluggish or malfunctioning IAC will prevent a constant idle. The problem sometimes only presents its self when the engine in cold. This certainly isn’t the only thing that can cause a rough idle, but If you find yourself having to keep pressure on the gas pedal to keep the engine running, this may be a place to start. Typically, just cleaning doesn’t offer any improvement, if the IAC is faulty, it usually needs to be replaced.
For some pictures of the IAC take a look at Fordman311's gallery at https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...&albumid=14860


Q: What size tires will fit on my truck?

A: Take a look at https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/2...-chart%3F.html


Q: How do I clean my MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor?

A: Thanks to Rockledge in the 3.0L forum here are some instructions for cleaning MAFs. The ones in the 97 and up trucks are accessed a bit differently...you remove the air cleaner housing as if you were replacing the filter and then you can see the MAF inside the big hose that goes to the Throttle Body.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...hreadid=126093


Q: How do I remove my door panels?

A: It depends on the panel style, but most you just pop off the upper trim pieces on either side, and pop out the retainers. If you have power windows pull off the switch plate and disconnect the power leads and set the switches and plate aside. Pull the escutcheon plate around the inner latch handle which just snaps into place. There will be one screw under that latch handle escutcheon plate. Remove that screw. Not all door panels have two upper trim pieces so if yours only has one then remove it and that retainer under it. If you have all the retainers out then simply grasp the bottom of the panel and give it a tug upward. The door panel has a bunch of hooks on the back side and you are simply unhooking them from the panel. The panel should then lift off and you just disconnect the courtesy lamp from the socket if equipped. Reverse order for installation. Some older model panels didnt have the escutcheon plate around the inner latch handle and just have a small trim piece you remove, and then you remove the handle itself with an 8 mm socket tool. Also some have an additional screw just inside the area where you pulled off the switch plate. If you missed a screw you will know as that panel will not budge. Some models may also have a screw hidden behind the lens on the courtesy light. If the lens is removable you will be able to tell by the indention in it made for a small screw driver to pop it out. (Thanks to HomerWinzlow for that answer)


Q: What kind of spark plugs should I use and how do I replace them?

A: Most people on here recommend Motorcraft spark plugs. That is all I will use too. Some people on here have had good luck with other brands and some people have had bad luck. Gimmick type spark plugs seem to usually be a waste of money. Something to remember is that a spark can only jump one gap at a time so having 2, 3, or 4 electrodes doesnt make much sense to me.
Motorcraft plugs can be bought at your local dealer and the prices at the dealer wont always be more than at other places. Ford has been keeping the prices on their common parts in line with the aftermarket in most cases. Apparently most Autozones also carry Motorcraft spark plugs. For tips on replacing your spark plugs see https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=104027


Q: My signal lights dont work correctly...they flash too fast or not at all or one side and not the other etc.

A: For some good info and instructions on replacing the switch see AjRagno's posts at https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...B%25252Bremove or https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...hreadid=193614


Q: Sometimes my odometer goes blank. What can i do about it?

A: Take a look at https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...25252Bblackout


Q: I have an oil leak where the oil filter attaches to the engine. What does it take to fix it?

A: Take a look at https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...48#post1413848


Q: Where can I find aftermarket wheels for my 7 stud F150LD/7700?

A: Try http://www.eaglewheels.com/143.htm
A couple weeks ago I worked on a 7700 with these on it and I thought they looked pretty good.
They also show their 121 and 171 series wheels with the 7 bolt pattern.


Q: How do I replace my power door lock actuator?

A: Take a look at https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...lock+actuator+


Q: What do ECT, PCM, IAC etc stand for?

A: Ford uses lots of acronyms. For definations take a look at https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=103441


Q: How do I replace the ball joints on my 97-03 F-150 or F-250 LD 4X4?

A: See https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/3...f-150-4x4.html

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I noticed your statement"Autolite and Motorcraft spark plugs are not the same. " The people at Carquest told me they are exactly the same and motorcraft is the cheaper made one of the two, BS I said and went to Ford and bought Motorcrafts, they cant be the same as the autolite PN is APP103 double platinums while the Motorcrafts are AGSF22WM single platinums, does not sound the same to me, but maybe with single platinum Motorcrafts they are a little more cheapily made? What do you think?

 

Well I just got an email back from Autolite about spark plugs. Here is what they say...........

As a division of the Honeywell Corporation, Autolite is the manufacturer responsible for the production of all
Motorcraft spark plugs in North America for the Ford Motor Company. Both Autolite and Ford/Motorcraft spark plugs are
built to quality standards using quality components. Autolite manufacture's the Motorcraft plugs based on the specific
design requirements of the Ford Motor Company. Autolite and Motorcraft spark plugs are manufactured side-by-side at our
facility in Northern Ohio.

 

Racerguy, about a sticky regarding check engine codes?and comman issues. i really like the stickies that have been posted so far, great job

 

There is a basic list of what codes mean if you take a look in the tech articles. The link to them is on the right side of the page.
There is a list with more info at http://rockledge.home.comcast.net/Ra...llery/DTCs.pdf

 

Notice the part about "based on the specific design requirements of the Ford Motor Company" That tells me that even though they are made by the same company they are made to Ford Specs and Quaility so hence they are not the same plugs. My company makes different brands of product on the same lines side by side but we produce to the buyers specific requirements so even though they are going down the same line at the same plant there are differances in the product.

 

Exactly

 

Hello, I read your post about the Idle Air Control valve motor. I have a 1997 F150 / 4.6, and it stalls at stoplights, stop signs, parking spaces, etc. Anytime when I slow down while in Drive. At Park, idle seems fine -- about 500-700 RPM. But as soon as I put it in Drive, RPM drops to about 300. Like you said, I have to keep the gas pedal pressed to avoid stalling. So, replacing the IAC... how much do those things generally run? Is it hard to replace? I'm not very mechanically inclined, but if it's easy enough, I will do it myself. Any help is appreciated. Thanks.
-Scott

 

Hi Scott and welcome
The IAC is easy to replace.
It has 1 electrical connector and 2 screws that hold it on.
It is towards the driver's side rear of the engine, under the big plastic throttle body cover.
As for price I'm really not sure. I just replace the parts, the office bills them out.
Let us know how it goes

 

Yay! I replaced the idle air controller valve and it fixed the problem. Now idle never dips below 500 rpm.

50 bucks for the part and 30 minutes of work. Not bad.

Thanks for you help, everyone.

-Boleskine

 

I read somewhere that the "fog light mod" (altering your headlight switch so that you can turn on your fog lamps with only your parking lights on) was here but I don't see it.

here is a LINK to it for those that might be looking.

 

as far as the 7 lug wheels go. just talked to Eagle, they only prode the Series 143 now. the 121 and171 Series have been discontinued, also talked to Boyds wheels they will make them but they are backlogged by 6-12 months

 

Do you know where I can find a sensor location for my truck 98 f-150 4.2L I am trying to find the temp sensor and also someone had shown me a diagram of where the maf and iat should be but it doesn't look like it is in that same place.

 

Temperature sensor is on the intake manifold, near the thermostat.......


The MAF is in the air cleaner housing.......

 

Replaced my IAC valve yesterday. One thing to make sure of is to have an 8mm socket (1/4" drive works best) on hand. I picked up the part and was ready to do the job and could not find my socket. Had to use a open end wrench and with such a tight fit, it was very slow. Still only took me about 40 minutes but, think I could have done it in about 20 with the right tools. Also deceided to unplug the electrical connection after removing the 2 bolts holding the valve to the throttle body as I could not get my hands in to remove connection.
Thanks to this forum I have changed my plugs and now my IAC and figure I have saved quite a bit already. Truck is a 2001 SuperCrew with 5.4 engine 4X4.