OBD II CODE P1450: How to fix
#1
OBD II CODE P1450: How to fix
Had to put a new tranny in my 1997 F150 XLT Lariat 4x4 5.4 liter engine about 3 weeks ago and now have gotten the check engine light. Took it to autozone and code 1450 was the only code listed. They said it was was a vacuum problem, but when I checked the code at a web site it is listed as a secondary air injector system circuit shot to B+.
My question is which is correct and how to repair?
Thanks, kjnoldy
1984 F250
1996 Lincoln
2000 Stang
My question is which is correct and how to repair?
Thanks, kjnoldy
1984 F250
1996 Lincoln
2000 Stang
#2
OBD II CODE P1450: How to fix
Hi kjoldy and welcome to FTE
Here is what the Ford manual says about a P1450.....
Continuous Memory Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P0446 or P1450 indicates that Self-Test has detected the Evaporative Emission Control System has excessive fuel tank vacuum. Also, a DTC P0446 indicates a vent control malfunction.
Possible causes:
EVAP canister purge outlet tube (EVAP canister purge valve to EVAP canister) blockages or kinks.
EVAP canister tube (fuel tank to EVAP canister) blockages or kinks.
Fuel vapor elbow on EVAP canister contaminated.
Restricted EVAP canister.
Canister vent (CV) solenoid stuck closed (partially or fully).
Plugged or contaminated CV solenoid filter.
EVAP canister purge valve stuck open.
Fuel filler cap stuck closed (no vacuum relief).
VREF circuit open in fuel tank pressure (FTP) sensor.
Damaged FTP sensor.
The common problems I've seen that cause this code are mud in the CV solenoid and related parts, and wiring to the CV ripped apart. The parts I am talking about are in front of the spare tire, above and behind the rear diff.
Here is what the Ford manual says about a P1450.....
Continuous Memory Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P0446 or P1450 indicates that Self-Test has detected the Evaporative Emission Control System has excessive fuel tank vacuum. Also, a DTC P0446 indicates a vent control malfunction.
Possible causes:
EVAP canister purge outlet tube (EVAP canister purge valve to EVAP canister) blockages or kinks.
EVAP canister tube (fuel tank to EVAP canister) blockages or kinks.
Fuel vapor elbow on EVAP canister contaminated.
Restricted EVAP canister.
Canister vent (CV) solenoid stuck closed (partially or fully).
Plugged or contaminated CV solenoid filter.
EVAP canister purge valve stuck open.
Fuel filler cap stuck closed (no vacuum relief).
VREF circuit open in fuel tank pressure (FTP) sensor.
Damaged FTP sensor.
The common problems I've seen that cause this code are mud in the CV solenoid and related parts, and wiring to the CV ripped apart. The parts I am talking about are in front of the spare tire, above and behind the rear diff.
#4
OBD II CODE P1450: How to fix
Racerguy,
I took removed the cannister rack and reseated cv vent solenoid connection. There was some dirt up there. Blew air through cv vent solenoid, no restrictions. Blew air through cannisters, no restrictions. Blew air through gas tank vent tube, no restrictions.
When I went to blow air through line that "Y"s off into two lines there seems to be some restriction, it seemed to take a little more
force. My gas tank is full so I'm wondering if that had anything to do with it.
When I was reassembling tubing I am not sure if I connected the tubing to the cannister correctly. Does the line that "Y"s off into two lines connect to the CV vent solenoid or the plain elbow?
I erased the code by disconnecting the battery. I then followed the restart procedure. I hope the code does not reoccur.
kjnoldy
I took removed the cannister rack and reseated cv vent solenoid connection. There was some dirt up there. Blew air through cv vent solenoid, no restrictions. Blew air through cannisters, no restrictions. Blew air through gas tank vent tube, no restrictions.
When I went to blow air through line that "Y"s off into two lines there seems to be some restriction, it seemed to take a little more
force. My gas tank is full so I'm wondering if that had anything to do with it.
When I was reassembling tubing I am not sure if I connected the tubing to the cannister correctly. Does the line that "Y"s off into two lines connect to the CV vent solenoid or the plain elbow?
I erased the code by disconnecting the battery. I then followed the restart procedure. I hope the code does not reoccur.
kjnoldy
#5
#6
OBD II CODE P1450: How to fix
Thanks Racerguy, I'll double check it. I drove the truck about 40 miles today. No lights yet, but there is a strange hum that tends to occur after the truck has been driven awhile. Truck is driving smoothly, but I wonder of any of the solenoids or valves are bad.
Last edited by Racerguy; 08-17-2003 at 12:21 AM.
#7
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#8
#10
I'm having some of the same issues.Just changed plugs and all codes cleared but P1450.If the issue is vacuum displacement in the tank,would this cause stumble or negative response during acceleration?At first the plug change increased performance but after 500 miles it was as if plugs were never changed.I removed the fuel cap and still no change(per vacuum problem).
I would be thankful for any help since the dealership has changed and fixed it 5not fixed after $700 and multiple sensor changes).
I would be thankful for any help since the dealership has changed and fixed it 5not fixed after $700 and multiple sensor changes).
#11
I Have A 2000 Ford Expedition 4.6 I Just Replaced The Fuel Pump Screen And Filter. The Truck Ran Awesome For A Week And Now Is Sputters And Dead Peddels And Takes A Few Turns To Start. The Code P1450 Showed Saying Could Not Vent. Will This Code Cause All These Problems Because The Same Thing Was Happening Before And That Is Why I Changed My Fuel Pump. Thanks If Anyone Can Help Due To This Is My Only Mode Of Transportation.
#12
small suggestion
Hello, I'm no expert here but I experienced tracking down 4 EVAP codes on two identical cars. My reader pulls "make specific" codes so I won't include them.
In the first case I discovered that an air intake check valve lived high in the vapor handling hoses. It was directly behind the fuel filler door and had a downward pointing barb fitting. I blew hard into the intake using a 2 foot piece of garden hose and was able to locate a hiss. The source of the code was a leak. I had to remove a fender liner to get to it. GOT POP RIVETS?
In the second case my tank was overfilled and wouldn't clear. I kept getting codes. Fierce pressure exited my fuel tank so I got the idea to replace the gas cap. I read somewhere that fuel caps are a maintenance replacement item @ 100,000 miles. My cap had 162,000. The lights cleared. As yours did.
Has your code returned?
After all this happened I worked a bit on 4 different pick-up trucks. I gave all the EVAP hoses and electronics an inspection. The hoses and canisters are accessible.
MORAL of the STORY: Take the drawings and familiarize yourself with the hardware under your vehicle. It's easy compared to my cramped car.
Your code might not come back if you've overfilled or if your cap is faulty.
Remember: Bubbling fuel from the fuel delivery nozzle can create back-flow, fill a vent pipe and trigger codes.
If you want to be hep; give it a thoughtful eyeball and learn where things are. It's good to know where vent and purge valves are and where the thermally activated switch is (coolant temperature sensor or fan mounted sensor). Kira
In the first case I discovered that an air intake check valve lived high in the vapor handling hoses. It was directly behind the fuel filler door and had a downward pointing barb fitting. I blew hard into the intake using a 2 foot piece of garden hose and was able to locate a hiss. The source of the code was a leak. I had to remove a fender liner to get to it. GOT POP RIVETS?
In the second case my tank was overfilled and wouldn't clear. I kept getting codes. Fierce pressure exited my fuel tank so I got the idea to replace the gas cap. I read somewhere that fuel caps are a maintenance replacement item @ 100,000 miles. My cap had 162,000. The lights cleared. As yours did.
Has your code returned?
After all this happened I worked a bit on 4 different pick-up trucks. I gave all the EVAP hoses and electronics an inspection. The hoses and canisters are accessible.
MORAL of the STORY: Take the drawings and familiarize yourself with the hardware under your vehicle. It's easy compared to my cramped car.
Your code might not come back if you've overfilled or if your cap is faulty.
Remember: Bubbling fuel from the fuel delivery nozzle can create back-flow, fill a vent pipe and trigger codes.
If you want to be hep; give it a thoughtful eyeball and learn where things are. It's good to know where vent and purge valves are and where the thermally activated switch is (coolant temperature sensor or fan mounted sensor). Kira
#13
Hello, I'm no expert here but I experienced tracking down 4 EVAP codes on two identical cars. My reader pulls "make specific" codes so I won't include them.
In the first case I discovered that an air intake check valve lived high in the vapor handling hoses. It was directly behind the fuel filler door and had a downward pointing barb fitting. I blew hard into the intake using a 2 foot piece of garden hose and was able to locate a hiss. The source of the code was a leak. I had to remove a fender liner to get to it. GOT POP RIVETS?
In the second case my tank was overfilled and wouldn't clear. I kept getting codes. Fierce pressure exited my fuel tank so I got the idea to replace the gas cap. I read somewhere that fuel caps are a maintenance replacement item @ 100,000 miles. My cap had 162,000. The lights cleared. As yours did.
Has your code returned?
After all this happened I worked a bit on 4 different pick-up trucks. I gave all the EVAP hoses and electronics an inspection. The hoses and canisters are accessible.
MORAL of the STORY: Take the drawings and familiarize yourself with the hardware under your vehicle. It's easy compared to my cramped car.
Your code might not come back if you've overfilled or if your cap is faulty.
Remember: Bubbling fuel from the fuel delivery nozzle can create back-flow, fill a vent pipe and trigger codes.
If you want to be hep; give it a thoughtful eyeball and learn where things are. It's good to know where vent and purge valves are and where the thermally activated switch is (coolant temperature sensor or fan mounted sensor). Kira
In the first case I discovered that an air intake check valve lived high in the vapor handling hoses. It was directly behind the fuel filler door and had a downward pointing barb fitting. I blew hard into the intake using a 2 foot piece of garden hose and was able to locate a hiss. The source of the code was a leak. I had to remove a fender liner to get to it. GOT POP RIVETS?
In the second case my tank was overfilled and wouldn't clear. I kept getting codes. Fierce pressure exited my fuel tank so I got the idea to replace the gas cap. I read somewhere that fuel caps are a maintenance replacement item @ 100,000 miles. My cap had 162,000. The lights cleared. As yours did.
Has your code returned?
After all this happened I worked a bit on 4 different pick-up trucks. I gave all the EVAP hoses and electronics an inspection. The hoses and canisters are accessible.
MORAL of the STORY: Take the drawings and familiarize yourself with the hardware under your vehicle. It's easy compared to my cramped car.
Your code might not come back if you've overfilled or if your cap is faulty.
Remember: Bubbling fuel from the fuel delivery nozzle can create back-flow, fill a vent pipe and trigger codes.
If you want to be hep; give it a thoughtful eyeball and learn where things are. It's good to know where vent and purge valves are and where the thermally activated switch is (coolant temperature sensor or fan mounted sensor). Kira
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