Help,98 mazda B2500 (really a ranger), if you try to start the truck without the clutch in dashboard instrument lights come on but won't start, so one has to depress the clutch, well rescently mine acts like I don't have the clutch depressed (although I do). lights come on, but nno start. I don't hear any clicking noise, I know theres a safety relay on the clutch rod down by the pedal. I've tried bypassing but haven't any luck. any help would be great. thanks

 

I have a 2001 Ranger with a 2.3 liter. I was driving it, pulling away from a stop and it quit just like it had a sudden lack of fuel. It would then crank but still acted like there was no fuel getting to it. There was plenty of gas in the tank. I parked it and tried to start it 20 minutes later and it then would no longer crank. Acts like the clutch is not depressed when I go to crank it, when it really is. I troubleshooted the circuit with the starting diagram and all the electrical values going into the starter relay are right on. I can feel the relay switch and I have tried other relays in it's place... no 12 volts output is ever given to the output wire that goes to the solenoid. Last night I tried jumping the solenoid with the key in the start position and clutch depressed.. starter cranked, but no start.

I'm lost in this problem, I've installed a new starter. The old one had a 140 amperage draw which was high for a I4. It has a new Battery and I've been charging it. I'm taking the truck in today, we'll see what ford finds out.

I'd love to hear any help or insite on this, thanks.

 

I pulled this link from the electrical forum:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=237671
I expect that this may not be the correct answer, but it will eliminate any possible faults in this part of the starting circuit.
AL.

 

I just got my truck back.. It ends up that the reason it would no longer crank was because the truck was in an anti theft mode. My 2001 ranger has the newer style key which has a chip in it and sends a code to the ignition. My truck went into anti theft mode because the ignition wasn't getting the right feedback from the key. My keys weren't working any longer (who knows exactly why). They recoded my keys and that fixed the problem.

This problem stumped me.. the code reader I used (from auto zone) hadn't picked up that anti theft mode code.

This cost me a two hundread doller tow and a shop fee of over $150. Hopefully this post will help someone properly diagnose this sooner and save some time and money in the process.

PS-- Thank you Dealford for your timely response.. I had used a copy of the electrical diagram from a Ford shop manual which helped me. I'll keep that link for the future.