A4LD band adjustment
#1
#2
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Willamette Valley, Oregon
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A4LD band adjustment
Band Adjustment
Intermediate Band Adjustment
CAUTION:
Install, but do not tighten, a new locknut (388307-S100) on the adjusting screw (7C492). Apply petroleum jelly to locknut seal.
34. Tighten the adjusting screw (7C492) using the Band Adjustment Torque Wrench Set T71P-77370-A.
NOTE:
The wrench will click at 14 N-m (10 ft-lb).
35. Back off the adjusting screw (7C492) exactly two turns and hold in that position. Tighten the locknut (388307-S100) to 47-61 N-m (35-45 ft-lb) using a 19mm wrench.
Overdrive Band Adjustment
CAUTION:
Install, but do not tighten, a new locknut (388307-S100) on adjustment screw (7C492). Apply petroleum jelly to locknut seal.
36. Tighten the adjusting screw (7C492) using the Band Adjustment Torque Wrench Set T71P-77370-A.
NOTE:
The wrench will click at 14 N-m (10 ft-lb).
37. Back off the adjusting screw (7C492) exactly two turns and hold that position. Tighten locknut (388307-S100) to 47-61 N-m (35-45 ft-lb) using a 19mm wrench.
Intermediate Band Adjustment
CAUTION:
Install, but do not tighten, a new locknut (388307-S100) on the adjusting screw (7C492). Apply petroleum jelly to locknut seal.
34. Tighten the adjusting screw (7C492) using the Band Adjustment Torque Wrench Set T71P-77370-A.
NOTE:
The wrench will click at 14 N-m (10 ft-lb).
35. Back off the adjusting screw (7C492) exactly two turns and hold in that position. Tighten the locknut (388307-S100) to 47-61 N-m (35-45 ft-lb) using a 19mm wrench.
Overdrive Band Adjustment
CAUTION:
Install, but do not tighten, a new locknut (388307-S100) on adjustment screw (7C492). Apply petroleum jelly to locknut seal.
36. Tighten the adjusting screw (7C492) using the Band Adjustment Torque Wrench Set T71P-77370-A.
NOTE:
The wrench will click at 14 N-m (10 ft-lb).
37. Back off the adjusting screw (7C492) exactly two turns and hold that position. Tighten locknut (388307-S100) to 47-61 N-m (35-45 ft-lb) using a 19mm wrench.
#3
#5
A4LD band adjustment
I couldn't help but notice that your sig says you are a Ford Tech. I hope you can offer some suggestions regarding my problem as no one else seems to know.
I'm losing 20 psi of fuel pressure in 1/2 an hour and I'm thinking it's causing my hard start condition. There is a very strong odor of fuel from the air inlet and I think an injector is leaking....which is flooding out one cylinder. It starts right up if it sits overnight but if I leave it for an hour or so after driving it, it takes 5 seconds of cranking to get it to start. Once it does start, the exhaust smells like gas for a couple seconds and runs great after that.
The system passes the static pressure leakage test according to the shop manual, but 20 psi of leakage in 1/2 an hour seems excessive to me. What do you think? Time to replace the injectors?
I really appreciate any suggestions!!
I'm losing 20 psi of fuel pressure in 1/2 an hour and I'm thinking it's causing my hard start condition. There is a very strong odor of fuel from the air inlet and I think an injector is leaking....which is flooding out one cylinder. It starts right up if it sits overnight but if I leave it for an hour or so after driving it, it takes 5 seconds of cranking to get it to start. Once it does start, the exhaust smells like gas for a couple seconds and runs great after that.
The system passes the static pressure leakage test according to the shop manual, but 20 psi of leakage in 1/2 an hour seems excessive to me. What do you think? Time to replace the injectors?
I really appreciate any suggestions!!
#6
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Willamette Valley, Oregon
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3 Posts
A4LD band adjustment
Actually my strong points are the transmissions, services, some wiring, chassis and 4X4. When it comes to tuneup and driveability I ask a buddy of mine that is still working at the Ford dealership. So I will pass the question on to him and it might take over the weekend because i will be outa town but I will try to get an answer back to you soon.
The leak could be a lot of things. My first guess would be the fuel cap seal because they are the first and most used seal. You might also check out your fuel pressure regulator, it almost sounds like to me that you are dealing with a rich condition which could indicate a bad regulator. Have you pulled the plugs and checked their condition? That would tell you if you have a problem in a certain cylinder. Your fuel pump could be leaking the pressure or one of the valves on the tank or the fill and return hoses at the filler neck also. These are just a few things off the bottom of my twisted mind. I will get back to you after the weekend when I hear from my friend.
The leak could be a lot of things. My first guess would be the fuel cap seal because they are the first and most used seal. You might also check out your fuel pressure regulator, it almost sounds like to me that you are dealing with a rich condition which could indicate a bad regulator. Have you pulled the plugs and checked their condition? That would tell you if you have a problem in a certain cylinder. Your fuel pump could be leaking the pressure or one of the valves on the tank or the fill and return hoses at the filler neck also. These are just a few things off the bottom of my twisted mind. I will get back to you after the weekend when I hear from my friend.
#7
A4LD band adjustment
Thanks very much, that would be great.
I've performed every fuel system test there is.....engine off pressure test, engine running pressure test, overpressure test, underpressure test, static leakage test, etc. etc. and I could not come up with a single problem. According to the tests, the regulator and fuel pump are ok and the return line is open. The pressure increased when I disconnected the vacuum source from the regulator and decreased once it was hooked up again, which tells me the regulator is working fine.
Once I get it started, it runs great. I recently changed the plugs, wires, cap, and rotor as well as the timing chain and gears. The plugs were clean as they should be and they showed no signs of a rich condition.
The fuel smell from the air inlet that appears as the fuel pressure leaks down (engine off) is what makes me think it's the injectors....but they are a spendy replacement so I want to be sure before I pony up the dough.
Thanks for all your help.
I've performed every fuel system test there is.....engine off pressure test, engine running pressure test, overpressure test, underpressure test, static leakage test, etc. etc. and I could not come up with a single problem. According to the tests, the regulator and fuel pump are ok and the return line is open. The pressure increased when I disconnected the vacuum source from the regulator and decreased once it was hooked up again, which tells me the regulator is working fine.
Once I get it started, it runs great. I recently changed the plugs, wires, cap, and rotor as well as the timing chain and gears. The plugs were clean as they should be and they showed no signs of a rich condition.
The fuel smell from the air inlet that appears as the fuel pressure leaks down (engine off) is what makes me think it's the injectors....but they are a spendy replacement so I want to be sure before I pony up the dough.
Thanks for all your help.
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#8
does anybody which screw is for the intermediate band, and which one is for the overdrive band? i am having 2nd gear problems, but every other gear works great... i ran it with low fluid and got off of the expressway and tranny would not shift out of 1st gear, unless i let got up to about 25-30 mph then let the revs drop, and it would shift right into 3rd. any suggestions? shifts great from 3rd to overdrive. thanks.
#10
Originally Posted by BeenerSteener
does anybody which screw is for the intermediate band, and which one is for the overdrive band? i am having 2nd gear problems, but every other gear works great... i ran it with low fluid and got off of the expressway and tranny would not shift out of 1st gear, unless i let got up to about 25-30 mph then let the revs drop, and it would shift right into 3rd. any suggestions? shifts great from 3rd to overdrive. thanks.
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#11
Torque
Band Adjustment
Intermediate Band Adjustment
CAUTION:
Install, but do not tighten, a new locknut (388307-S100) on the adjusting screw (7C492). Apply petroleum jelly to locknut seal.
34. Tighten the adjusting screw (7C492) using the Band Adjustment Torque Wrench Set T71P-77370-A.
NOTE:
The wrench will click at 14 N-m (10 ft-lb).
35. Back off the adjusting screw (7C492) exactly two turns and hold in that position. Tighten the locknut (388307-S100) to 47-61 N-m (35-45 ft-lb) using a 19mm wrench.
Overdrive Band Adjustment
CAUTION:
Install, but do not tighten, a new locknut (388307-S100) on adjustment screw (7C492). Apply petroleum jelly to locknut seal.
36. Tighten the adjusting screw (7C492) using the Band Adjustment Torque Wrench Set T71P-77370-A.
NOTE:
The wrench will click at 14 N-m (10 ft-lb).
37. Back off the adjusting screw (7C492) exactly two turns and hold that position. Tighten locknut (388307-S100) to 47-61 N-m (35-45 ft-lb) using a 19mm wrench.
Intermediate Band Adjustment
CAUTION:
Install, but do not tighten, a new locknut (388307-S100) on the adjusting screw (7C492). Apply petroleum jelly to locknut seal.
34. Tighten the adjusting screw (7C492) using the Band Adjustment Torque Wrench Set T71P-77370-A.
NOTE:
The wrench will click at 14 N-m (10 ft-lb).
35. Back off the adjusting screw (7C492) exactly two turns and hold in that position. Tighten the locknut (388307-S100) to 47-61 N-m (35-45 ft-lb) using a 19mm wrench.
Overdrive Band Adjustment
CAUTION:
Install, but do not tighten, a new locknut (388307-S100) on adjustment screw (7C492). Apply petroleum jelly to locknut seal.
36. Tighten the adjusting screw (7C492) using the Band Adjustment Torque Wrench Set T71P-77370-A.
NOTE:
The wrench will click at 14 N-m (10 ft-lb).
37. Back off the adjusting screw (7C492) exactly two turns and hold that position. Tighten locknut (388307-S100) to 47-61 N-m (35-45 ft-lb) using a 19mm wrench.
Would it be a first torque and then a final torque?
Example: 47-61 N-m. First 47 N-m and depojs 61 N-m?
The Ford service manual also always shows two numbers.
#12
#13
'88 Ranger 4x4
Are the band adjustments on the outside of the case? If so, where? I ask because I have an '88 Ranger with an A4LD 4X4 that has a slow 2-3 shift. It will eventually go, but it is taking longer and longer to complete. The warm/hot fluid level looks good. I can only guess a band adjustment, or rebuild will be the answer. Sadly, most folks around here(OKC metro) want $3000+ to rebuild it. It's in a pickup I paid $1000 for. Not wanting to do that.
Is there a better option other than the A4LD that will work with my 2.9 V6? I really want a 5 speed, but don't know all I need to know to pull it off. I have the pedal hangers off my '83, can find a transmission, I'm sure, but think the computer needs changed for a manual transmission type.
I will anxiously await your reply.
Is there a better option other than the A4LD that will work with my 2.9 V6? I really want a 5 speed, but don't know all I need to know to pull it off. I have the pedal hangers off my '83, can find a transmission, I'm sure, but think the computer needs changed for a manual transmission type.
I will anxiously await your reply.
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adam_harding1234
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05-24-2007 09:09 PM
RangerRage
1983 - 2012 Ranger & B-Series
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02-03-2000 04:49 PM
a4ld, adjust, adjusting, adjustment, band, bands, gas, line, pressure, shifts, specs, t71p77370a, tests, torque, transmission