1. I will be replacing my spark plugs and suppressor ends on the 2007 e-250 with the 4.6.
Anything I need to look out for?

2.i have intermittent air coming from my vents under a load then it comes back when I let off the gas and coast or level off with lighter throttle.
Seems like a vacuum leak somewhere and I also have a check engine light, something for a key issue but no running complaints at all.

Will check on the code another time when I have time to borrow a tester again.

 

What's your experience or skill level with installing spark plugs in aluminum heads? Do you a good torque wrench that accurately reads in the 15-25 ft/lbs range (or its equivalent in inch/pounds?

The intermittent air flow is directly related to a vacuum leak within the airflow control system. This may be related to the DTC but without knowing that code its tough to really say.

 

Yes, I'm a Mercedes tech and I have all the tools I need just looking for any pointers on the plugs.
Not sure if I have the nightmarish three valve deals that I need to soak with carb cleaner in the plug holes.

That darn code if I remember correctly had something to do with key transponder or something.
I erased the code but it came right back.....yeah I know its pointless to speculate without knowing the right code.
I'm gonna grab my buddy's scan tool tonight and check it out.

 

Okay so you're well versed in plugs in aluminum heads etc--here's my all time favorite thread about the Ford Modular Motor plug changes: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ed-torque.html I follow recommendation #2 pretty much to the letter.

Your E-Series motor will be 2V because they never ever received the 3V motors.

FWIW on the issue of brand and whether (or not) to use anti-seize........

Most often in the Modular Motor forums issues with new plugs misfiring or early failing tend to fall upon a brand other than MotorCraft. While I agree the ECM in theory shouldn't care what brand it controls anecdotal experiences strongly suggest the brand does make a difference. Perhaps the only real discussion is WHY this is so? I have no clue and never use anything but MotorCraft.

I strongly suggest using nickel-based anti-seize and increasing the torque to 21-22 ft/lbs. Ford once sold this under their own part number then changed their own spec saying the platinum plated threads essentially replaced it. Along with changing plugs at 50K (despite claims they'll go 100K) and proper use of anti-seize this is a relatively easy process.

Ahhh also--you probably already know this---check the boots and COP connectors too. A dab of dielectric grease is very useful in both places.

HTH

 

Thanks

Yep, I m a firm believer in brand quality which is why I bought motorcraft plugs and new suppressor ends.

I'll check out that link and read up......much obliged.

 

Good man!

Let us know about your heating/cooling issues---might have some insight there too!

 

Thanks for the advice.

Knocked the plugs out this afternoon.
Took me two hours but definitely needed to take my time considering how dry those plug threads in the heads felt....wow!

I'm gonna pick up my buddy's scan tool today and see what that darn code is.

I did not find any obvious vacuum leaks but I Did hear the engine sucking air when I flogged the gas pedal with the engine shroud off.
This may be normal intake whoosh noise but I'm not an expert on Fords obviously.

 

You can buy an OBD2 scanner off ebay for just a few bucks and then download an app for your phone and tablet.

 

I've got an OBD II scanner but it does not work on my van for some reason.

I used my buddies AUTEL.

Got these codes last night:
Maybe someone can shine some light on these.

B-1352 ignition key in circuit fault status-20.

P-1740 torque converter clutch system stuck off status FF- above maximum threshold.

P-1744 torque converter clutch system performance or mechanically stuck off.

The only transmission issue I have is that sometimes it will slip when up or downshifting.
Transmission fluid is fine and I flushed it and changed the filter at 60-k miles.

it currently has 107-k miles.

Still no idea what is going on with my vents not blowing air under load....seems like vacuum loss somewhere.

 

You almost definitely have a vacuum loss to the heat/cool/defrost system. Most often it's a failed reservoir specific to the climate control system. There are several work arounds for this as finding and replacing the factory installed part is nearly impossible.

No time at the moment to link you to several good known fixes for this but will do so within 24 hours---work calls at the moment.