I ran into my first problem with the '67 F600. I was driving home from work and the engine (330ci) began sputtering and seemed like it was starving for fuel. I pulled it off the road and it had a lot of problems starting back up. I thought I ran out of gas and my gauge was broken, but I added 2 gallons and had the same problem. I finally got it home by driving while opening and closing the choke. It had a very hard time maintaining idle and would bog down when I tried to accelerate.

It was about 90 degrees outside that day, but the engine seemed to be at normal operating temperature and did not overheat by any means. I considered it was simply vapor lock, but after I let the truck sit for a day it was having the same issues. To hedge my bets I did the clothespin trick on the fuel lines to hopefully prevent vapor lock in the future. The oil gauge has always shown temperature is a little high, but I honestly don't know if its correct or if its showing pressure or temperature...

Anyways, I was planning on troubleshooting the issue in the following order. I want to avoid dumping unneeded money into this so cost is somewhat of a factor. Should I be considering anything else?

1. Clean carburetor
2. Change fuel filter
3. Rebuild carburetor
4. Replace fuel pump
5. Replace accelerator pump on carb
6. Do a full tune-up
7. Replace carburetor
8. Insulate fuel lines

 

Check fuel tank for debris. Check pickup for clogs if you find debris. Blow out fuel lines as part of any repair due to fuel tank debris. Check for water in fuel also. Check fuel pressure. How old is the fuel pump? Check for fuel in oil. Replace fuel pump if pressure is low or fuel in oil. Check float level in carb.

 

The original fuel pump used on these trucks came with a corrugated paper cartridge fuel filter that fits inside a metal canister that threads onto the pump.

Many people are unaware, so they install an inline fuel filter. Meanwhile the fuel pump filter is getting more clogged up every day.

C4AZ-9365-B .. Cartridge Fuel Filter (Motorcraft FG-1A) / Available from Ford and auto parts stores.

Applications: Myriad 1964/78 FoMoCo vehicles.

 

Sounds like an vaccum leak to me. Also I had a 76 for F100 with a 390. I added an eletric fuel pump just to help an issue like this. The MR Gasket purple pump works well for like $40

 

@NumberDummy Thanks for the heads up. I actually read another one of your posts warning folks of this so that filter is the one I am going to change. The next question is, is there another filter in the tank? Thanks!

 

Thanks and I'll add it to the list. Should be relatively easy to troubleshoot.

 

No in-cab tank filter, the fuel pump filter was the only one.

 

Double post.

 

I have that same pump with the screw-on canister filter on the bottom. Question Are there any removal tools that will fit the bottom of the filter? did Ford have a tool number? Can I buy one somewhere?
thank you NumberDummy

 

If I cannot get the canister off of the fuel pump by hand, I use a small strap wrench. You can usually find a cheap plastic one at most hardware stores. It gives you some extra leverage, but take care not to colapse the canister. Then only hand tighten at assembly.

 

They do make a metal strap wrench (like a oil filter strap wrench) made specifically for this size canister.

These canister filters were used on many other makes than Ford, even marine engines used them, Crusader and OMC being the big users, Volvo also used them, although the same filter, the housing was longer and the canister was shorter. AMC, International were also two big automotive users in addition to Ford.

The WIX number is 33271 by the way for the filter. The canisters are readily available on Ebay.

David

 

I have seen the filter wrench's for the marine engines and ones for Volvo, etc. but I wasn't sure if it was the same size (OD) I have the filter 33271 same number for NAPA. Since I just did a fuel tank cleaning job done I think I will just remove the fuel pump and make sure it is pumping and clean out any gunk that could be in the old filter housing.
Thanks for the info gentlemen, much appreciated.

 

I removed the fuel pump to check it out and see if it pumps and to replace the rubber fuel hose and to replace the canister filter. The fuel pump is nice and tight and pumps well but the filter canister is on so tight I couldn't budge it. I sprayed some penetrating oil into the top of the threads and will try again tomorrow.
After I pulled the pump I shined the flashlight in the opening and it was squeaky clean, no sludge or varnish. I also used a screwdriver to check the slack in the timing chain and found it to be loose, like a goose! It has a stock timing chain so I'm not going to do any burnouts or doughnuts any time soon.
So when I do the timing chain I may as well find the right accessory pulley for the crank to run the p/s and a/c. I'll replace the timing chain with a true double roller.

 

So, I replaced the fuel filter and gave the carburetor a nice cleaning (while still attached). I also searched for a vacuum leak by spraying carb cleaner on all the lines, but none could be found.

I put some starting fluid in the bowl, cranked the engine and it started fine. After a minute or so I opened the choke and it immediately died. Closed the choke and it ran fine again, but as soon as I open the choke it dies. My next step is to rebuild the carburetor, but I'm a little confused on what rebuild kit I should buy. From what I can tell I have the 2100 carb, but every kit I see online seems to refer to an automatic choke. Will I be alright buying this and omitting some of the parts? Thanks.

 

The choke will probably need to be partially on for longer than a minute, you have to have some intake manifold heat to open the choke fully.

Warm up the engine, fully open the choke, if it stalls, first thing to do is to reset the idle mixture screws to a known starting point and then go from there.

If you are indeed have plugged internal passages on the carb, then the only way to clean it is to remove and disassemble.

You may want to check with NAPA, your carb may have a governor on it, or it may not. If you get the right kit for your truck, it will be for a manual choke as none of these trucks came with a auto choke, at least in these years.

You should have a phenolic or bakelight spacer under the carb, between the intake and carb, it is probably warped and cracked, these can still be found new old stock. It needs to be there, and a later aluminum one from a 302 will not seal to the intake manifold.

David