So, the boot on my 98 F150 (5.4 4x4) tore yesterday. I am figuring that it happened due to old age. My concern though is that I may have messed something up when replacing the hub assembly.
Is it possible to have messed something up, stressed the cv joint causing this rupture?

In any case, I had to drive the truck home when this happened, and I am leaning towards just replacing the entire half shaft. (I am a paranoid person, and do not want to risk just replacing the boot)

So, my question to you as stated above, should I be concerned that I overstressed the CV joint, didn't tighten the axle nut enough, or just account for old age on this part. Or possible just damaged it while removing the hub assembly.

Also, side note, while removing the old hub assembly I more than likely hit the edge of the boot near the clamp (where the boot meets with the cv joint) with a hammer.

 

Most likely it is merely age and wear that caused it. I've noticed that majority of people on this forum would advise replacing the complete CV axle. I, for one, was too cheap so I just did the boot. It was pain getting the axle apart...

Sent from Nexus 4. IB AutoGroup

 

Thanks.
Yeah, my thought is just to replace the entire unit. I don't want to run into an issue later on, that and it's only an extra 30 dollars or so to do the whole unit vs just the boots.

What all did you do to get the axle out?
I plan on following this videos directions, seems simple enough and could be theoretically done in an afternoon. Unless you have a simpler solution.

 

I didn't actually watch the video, but I removed the castle but from the center there, and removed the wheel, then the brake caliper and disk. Took out the six bolts that hold the shaft together, drop it down and pull it out. May need to tap the end of the shaft to wiggle it out of the hub. Easy enough.

Sent from Nexus 4. IB AutoGroup

 

Holy cow, that was much easier than expected....
Thanks for the input on this

The image below shows what I was greeted with after repairing the hub assembly, needless to say it needed to go.

Took a total of 45 minutes. Removed tire, axle nut, axle bolts, and the sway link connecting rod. then it was a slight wiggle to get the axle to drop off.

I believe I will be doing this to the drivers side soon..

 

Very beautiful rust prevention! Ha Ha! I never thought of the sway bar. Mine has been removed at some point ...
But it was so easy, now you're gonna become a mechanic, hey?

Sent from Nexus 4. IB AutoGroup

 

I normally never take my vehicles to a mechanic, I like doing all the work myself.
I had an 85 f250 that got me hooked on self-repair vs mechanics, which also led me to this forum.

 

To try and add to the group knowledge and to this discussion from a different viewpoint.

I just swapped both axels 6 months ago with some I ordered from autozone. they were extremely cheap compared to the OEM units but I thought what the heck, I use them for short term till more cash rolls in.

Well while takeing hairpin switch backs that were so tight that the truck could barely navigate them going downhill in 4 low, the passenger cv joint dissasembled itself and popped out of socket on the transmission side. (CV joint dissasembled, not the stub shaft coming out of diff)

I am not sure if the OEM's would have done the same thing, but I highly doubt it. I am now waiting on replacement OEM's to arrive for both sides. after compaing the old axles (which I kept as spares) and the autozone ones it appears that the autozone units are a smidgen shorter when stood on end compressed and measured in comparison to the old stock units.

truck is 2001 5.4 SCREW lifted 4" with a RCD kit that keeps the driveline angels the same as stock after install. I do have an ARB front locker, but it was not engaged when this happend. rear diff has a detroit trutrac torsion style LSD.

we had to cut the axle next to the hub with a sander and cutoff wheels just so I could drive home.

ken

 

It's funny that you brought this up, I noticed the same thing but didn't think anything of it as I was installing.
I'll keep my eye out for any problems, thankfully my truck remains mostly a suburban cruiser for the time being.
How much of a price different for the OEMs, if you don't mind me asking?

 

JMeyer,

Still waiting on a price quote from a stateside dealership, I am stationed overseas in Japan, so shipping can be quite painful.

The replacement boot that I ordered from the ford dealership was $85.00 with shipping which was $5.00 dollars more than I paid for the entire shaft with shipping from autozone, (they offer free shiping for overseas service members via surface mail). It take like 8~10 weeks to arrive, but its free.

If I remember right from last year when I ordered the autozone shafts, I thought the dealership was like $400 or $500 per side + shipping but its been six months or so and I have lost the emails from then, so I am waiting on a price quote.

its funny as I ordered the boot kit from ford and it arrived at the same time as the shafts from auto zone, so I just swapped both shafts and kept the boot to rebuild the original with if needed, thank god, I couldn't live without my truck for 2 months without killing somebody (somewhat jokenly said)

cheers

Ken

 

Sorry to bring up an old thread but I'm searching for options. I just replaced my shocks and noticed my passenger side outer CV boot is torn. Not sure how long. Its not making any noise or anything but can see the dried up grease all over the place which tells me its been a little while. I've replaced CV's and axles before on other cars but never on this truck. Is the best option to replace the entire half shaft axle assemble that includes the CV with new boot, etc. vs just getting a new boot? What else should I replace while I'm in there? Hubs? I do notice a slight squealing when wheels turn driving slowly. I think the wheel bearings could be getting tired.

Any suggestions, tips would be great. Thanks.

 

if its been ripped open long enough to dry the grease its been a while. I would just swap the axles with some oems from the junkyard, just put new boots and grease on them prior to installing them. the cheap ones from autozone orileys etc are a gnats *** too short and the construction internally is different they bind badly when you are in 4wd and get the wrong combination of turn + bump causeing them to break during use. if you are never in 4wd and or are only in snow/sand etc then no problems, but if you are ever in partial traction situations where front graps hard and rear does not you can "pop" the CV apart.

now if you are loaded just buy the news one from ford, guaranteed fitment etc.

 

I second what Kenn said. As I said before, I went with the Autozone replacement, and I regret it now. At first I thought it was just a single persons' issue, but I too had this issue (while towing a trailer, good 300 miles from home) Was backing the trailer into a parking spot, remarkable in itself, (considering I hate backing trailers), heard and felt a pop when I was in a full lock to the left. Sure enough, the CV boot exploded, again, and the damn thing was in multiple pieces (you can probably still find them at the "Worlds Largest Truck Stop" in Iowa) I had to finish the trip without my front axles installed. If you can absolutely avoid it, do not go for the Autozone or Oreilly re-manufactured stuff, go for OEM.

I ended up ordering from the dealer, (yes, I did. My wallet did not enjoy this) only because I don't have a junkyard near me that ever seems to have this generation F150 in its lots. Long story short, Go OEM, leave the Autozone stuff to people like me, who can't seem to follow someone's advice the first time

 

Do not feel bad Josh, I found similiar posts but ignored them over the allure of cheap parts....lesson learned (and I am 48 this march so old dog...new tricks...)
SMH at myself for the lack of foresight.