-I did a dignostics test. the engine cant get enough gas into cylinder one and two

-When the van is in drive but parked it chokes really bad and sometimes shuts off the engine. when in "N" it does not choke as much but still shuts off sometimes. When driving everything is fine. I have changed the fuel filter and added fuel line cleaner to a tank of gas. This worked for a about 2 months but the problem is back. I am located in New Orleans, finding a honest micanic who I can aford is hard. Any help would be nice.


have done:
fuel filter
fuel line cleaner
checked fuses


to do next:
check relays
clean/replace spark plugs
...



sincerely,
Penny

 

Wait, you're saying at curb idle (~650 RPM) in DRIVE but stopped it stalls and generally runs poorly? Yet, when driving down the road (let's say, 1000+ RPM) it runs just fine?

First and foremost, a compression test of the engine is needed for a baseline. Definitely a leak-down test in which regulated air is pushed into the cylinders through the plug holes. I say this because it almost sounds like the fire ring/head gasket between the one and two cylinders is in the process of letting go.

Just out of curiosity, does the exhaust smell sweet or have a repulsive odor to it?

Sweet = Unburnt fuel, caused by low compression/inadequate spark, resulting in a rich condition.

Repulsive = Not enough fuel to burn, caused by unresponsive/clogged injectors/fuel rail resulting in the classic "lean" condition.

 

Yes


Yes

Just checked and YES

 

Yes it's sweet?

 

it smells kind of sweet gasoline smelling

 

Aight, that is unburnt fuel which points to the spark/compression issue.

So yes, pull the number one and two plugs. Inspect them for carbon buildup, corrosion, erosion or just wear. If the plugs come out "clean" -meaning they look fairly new, even if you know they were not changed in a year plus- without much wear on the electrode this indicates that the cylinder is not firing much at all.

There is a way to test the COPs. Take them from the 'dead' cylinders and move them to the other side (five and six) and see if the miss follows them. If it DOES, then the issue is bad COPs. If it DOES NOT after looking at the plugs themselves -and making sure the threads are clean as that is how they ground- then there is either a blockage in the fuel rail, bad injectors or a loss of compression.

 

If you are standing in front of the 5.4L, just left of the alternator. The engine its covered in a thick sandy like oil. Right where the gasket is.

I'll do the trouble shooting and report back.

 

Facing the engine from the grill, I do believe the alternator is on the left yes?

That 'sandy' looking slop is probably seepage from the valve cover gasket. A leak would look fresh and 'wash' the dirt right off.

Huh, when you pull the one-two COPs look at the boot at the bottom. It should be dry. Those coils are VERY sensitive to any liquid and generally get killed when dunked in water/coolant/oil.

Rise and shine Ford engineers! Here's an easy-fix issue: SEAL THE COPs BETTER!

Aight, tangent over.

What can be ruled out straight away:

Timing issues (three and four are firing as they should producing their share of the power)

Bent valves caused by Interference (would not be in just companion cylinders)

Fuel Pump/Delivery system up to the back of the block (All other cylinders run fine)

Most Spark Issues (Engine smooth's out at higher RPM) Yes, I had to think about this one before putting it on the list

When was the last oil change and (if you recall) were there any metal slivers/pieces in it?

 

I mean left of the alternator, on the engine I have the sandy oil build up.



Last one I let walmart do. Now I'm having a really hard time getting the pin on the pan loose to drain the oil. It is about due and I could look but if this van needs to just go away becuase I cant pay $1000 plus for the head gaskets I should probably return the oil and the filter. What do you think?

 

... "go away" as in parted out or sold as is.

 

Sorry for the delay, was working on my project . . .

Anyway, your first problem is trusting Wal-Mart. Them baboons have a thing for silicon on the drain plug and over-torqueing, thus making it damn impossible to get it out again without damaging the pan. Yes, it's quite intentional so they can sell you a new pan and charge you labor for their screw-up. Makes the shade-tree folks look downright honest.

Right, moving on . . .

It's a shame I'm about fifteen hundred miles away as without pictures or a 'hands-on' ability diagnosing accurately is a pain but I'll give it my all.

Give a fuel-system cleaner like Lucas Upper Cylinder Lubricant a go. If it's a partially clogged injector(s), the issue will fix itself or get worse depending on what's actually going on. If you can, pull the plugs and look at the threads for corrosion as that would inhibit the spark via excessive resistance.