I'm not a mechanic by any stretch of the imagination. I like doing stuff I understand. But things seem odd to me and was wondering if somebody might help.

I just got my 97 f 150 V6 back from having some tires put on and she came with a list of stuff that needs fixing. It does pull to the right and needs to be aligned. They also say the following needs to be fixed. These are quotes off the sheet I got:

"RF Wheel bearing needs adjustment/replace"- don't hear anything but ok.

"Left Front Stabilizer link is broken"- Ok, can't find the part on Napa....

"LF rotor needs replacing"- yes it does.

(this is what I don't get )
"Pitman arm is very loose and could fall out any time(not safe)"- I have the haynes online manual for it and I've looked at it everywhere it's brought up. How does it fall out? If it's loose, just tighten it back up? Confused.

"Both upper ball joints are worn and loose. Recommend replacing upper control arms and camber bolts to align"- Probably true, it rides not rough, but almost like you have a cupped tire. Don't know if that might be the problem.

Any help guys? I know you can't see the truck, but any knowledge would help.

 

I did crawl under there. The pitman arm is pretty rusty. The castle nut doesn't look great. Maybe that's what they meant?

 

You didn't say if you have 2wd or 4wd. If the pitman arm has a ball socket it could come out and you wouldn't have eny steering.

 

"RF Wheel bearing needs adjustment/replace"- don't hear anything but ok. id slap some grease on it

"Left Front Stabilizer link is broken"- Ok, can't find the part on Napa....they could be talking buckles, mine are flipped to give a small lift, i dont 4x4 much so its not a biggy

"LF rotor needs replacing"- yes it does.

(this is what I don't get )
"Pitman arm is very loose and could fall out any time(not safe)"- I have the haynes online manual for it and I've looked at it everywhere it's brought up. How does it fall out? If it's loose, just tighten it back up? Confused.might have a stripped ball/shaft

"Both upper ball joints are worn and loose. Recommend replacing upper control arms and camber bolts to align"- Probably true, it rides not rough, but almost like you have a cupped tire. Don't know if that might be the problem.it could be, its not that bad of a job but do it all at once with tie rods.

Any help guys? I know you can't see the truck, but any knowledge would help.

 

It's 2wd M&D

 

That is a ball and socket on the end with the nut. If it gets worn bad enough it could pop out and you would lose all steering. easy enough to check. grab ahold of the tierood it is conected to and lift up and down. If there is any play replace it.

 

LOL, OMG, I'm home!!!!

 

your truck is 17 years old... All of the items on the list sound like normal maintenance on a truck that age. If the shop was trying to screw you, I could think of a lot more costly items to put on the sheet than the above. Without seeing the truck, I have a tendency to agree with your mechanic.

 

Your running an accident waiting to happen!.
The truck would never pass state inspection anywhere.
The shop was very happy to sell you tires to begin the repairs, now go on with the rest to make the truck safe to drive before you get hurt or hurt others.
The tires won't last very long with the condition of the suspension.
Good luck.

 

Bluegrass, I have no doubt that my truck is in need of some repair. It was the 1,800 dollar price tag I balked at... Especially when the parts total comes to less than $250.

 

I'm sorry, but you never mentioned their repair costing in your original post, so my reply only addressed it as if you did not understand, from the way you posted about the situation.
My crystal ball is broken at this time. Forgive me!
Good luck.

 

1800 to rebuild the frontend and aline isn't out of line. I am shure all of the parts are well over $250. Things like the rotor if you do one you should replace bouth along with pads same with wheel bearings do bouth sides at once. If you can't do some of the work your self. Shop around you might save a buck or two.

 

30+ years wrenching both professionally and as a hobby.... always replace in pairs if the right side is gone, the left is oon to follow, even if one is damaged in an accident you should (generally speaking) change the other side. once upon a time 1800 would buy you a rebuilt engine and tranny labor included, but now days 1800 is chump change in automobile repairs these days.

if you cannot afford to do it all at once, ask the mechanic to stagger the repairs over 2~3 paychecks. You might pay more for labor, but can still get the repairs done.

all of the items listed are items that generally contribute to front end allignemnt and bad tire wear

good luck

 

I'm sorry guys. I just wasn't expecting it. My financial situation is pretty shaky. Didn't mean to sound ungrateful, combative, or anything like that.

I crawled under and shook the hell out of it, reefed up and down; nothing, tight as a drum. Though as I prefaced before, I'm not a mechanic(yet ).

My brother-in-law who works at a repair shop(we don't really get along, long story) looked at stuff and he said it wasn't bad. again, he isn't a professional, but know a lot more than me. I still plan on having it looked at by another shop. However.... I hope all that wasn't done just to make money.

 

I have less than 60k miles on my (early) '97. It is in excellent shape. That said, the '97s, at least the early ones, were assembled with a pitman arm with an inadequately lubricated "sealed" joint. It would eventually make a rubbing/groaning sound that would reverberate through the whole front end when turning left/right. If caught in time (I did), stabbing the boot with a grease needle and pumping some grease in would save it. I still have it, no play in it, nor in any other front-end components. Maybe someday.

The stabilizer bar links are cheap and very easy to replace, no lift needed, just replace with the truck flat on the ground. Check RockAuto, O'Reilly, etc. for the Moog replacement set. The originals had integral plastic spacers, the replacements will be long bolts with plated steel sleeves instead. Replace both sides. I replaced mine a couple years ago, the rubber bushings broke on one side, couldn't help but hear it and feel it without bushings as the shaft dragged up and down through the holes in the sway bar and lower control arm.

I cannot diagnose ball joints over the internet