Hello everyone. Please meet Old George (as named by the older lady I bought him from) if you haven't already. 1949 F1 226 w/ 4-speed.


Many thanks to those that got me though my 12v conversion! This is a father/son(s) project and my plan was to install a disc brake conversion for the front this winter, however the more I think about those old brake lines and the lack of a proportioning valve, and the missing parking brake, I figured I will bump it up on the priority list. My dad is coming out to visit in July and wants to work on him as well so it will be a grandfather/son/grandsons project for a week or so.

My goal is to get a kit that includes everything think I need. I only have basic tools and knowledge so I want little to no fabrication. I can drill and move a zerk or 2 and things like that, but no major fab/guess work. I want a MC that will bolt into the same place under the cab. I have 15" wheels and a later model 9" rear end. I will replace all the lines during the swap. Yes I have done much research and reading but much of it is getting older and thought I see if anyone wants to give me a yay or nay on your own system.

Again, I'd like a complete kit with everything but the main lines (I'm sure I can pick those up at NAPA). I'll get a bender as well and maybe a flaring tool if needed. (any recommendations of those are welcome as well, and the lines you ran, steel/copper/pre-cut/etc/) I'd like good instructions (I know that's a problem with most). I was pretty set on CPP but I've seen a lot of talk about certain parts not being included and having to wait and also certain parts not fitting. I live in Alaska and not very close to many shops/stores. Thankfully NAPA is only about 20 minutes, but anything else is 40 and we still use the Pony Express to get things up here so waiting on a part that was missing may take time and I'd like to wrap it up while my dad is here.

So, which kit did you use, and why would you recommend it or not? Thanks a ton in advance!

 

I built my own, but will give you my observations. I went with the Speedway front disc kit and was happy with it. Install was fairly straightforward and no issues. You should think about swapping out the king pins and bushings if there is any play in them as you will have most of it apart anyway.

I did a dual master cylinder and power brake booster upgrade under the cab, but there was some fab work required as the parts were a generic kit and I had to make my own brackets. Proportioning valve and residual pressure valves were installed too.

The biggest problem was the brake lines. I went to NAPA and was able to get lines that were usable lengths already flared with the correct fittings on all but 3 lines, which I had to flare. After installing everything, when I tried it out, every , and I mean every, joint leaked. After tightening everything several times, I was able to get it sealed up. The three brake lines that I had to cut to fit were the only thing on my build that I did not do myself, short of machine shop work. I could not, for the life of me, get a double flare to work and not leak. I went to a local auto parts store and they flared them for me.

Don't forget to get the new flex line for the 9" that goes from the rigid line on the frame to the axle tube with the Y fitting on it to run the lines to each rear drum. They are only about $20, but I had to order it.

To rebuild the brakes on the 9", you can do everything for about $50 in parts. Just a hint, be sure to adjust the star adjusters in the drums when you are done or you will wonder why you barely have brakes for about 2 weeks.

 

i'll add my 2 cents.. when i built my t bucket i did all my own brake lines too.. got a good double flair kit.. double flair's what a pita.... i conceded and just did a single flair and for 10 yrs NEVER had a problem..

 

Thanks for the input fellas! I'm not sure what the difference is in single/double flare, but I'll look into it. I noticed that the last person to replace the lines just went with longer lengths and put extra bends in them in order to "shorten" them up. I saw the Y block and flexible line as well and I'll be sure to get those too. Are all those Y blocks the same on the 9" I wonder? I'm not 100% what year my rear end is, but likely 60s. I think the breather tube is connected to the Y block as well, but I'll have to take another look. I'll also look at the king pins and bushings. Everything underneath has been well greased/lubed but who knows how long they've been there.

I was taking off a wheel so I could take it to a local shop today (I'm looking to put 8" wheels under the back and want to find matching Ford wheels) so I could compare it and make sure I get the right size/kind. When I took off the one side a bunch of pieces fell out. It turned out to be the star adjuster and spring. I've never adjusted brakes before but I'm guessing you just tighten them until they are not rubbing?

I know there are several posts about wheel size, but do you guys see any reason why a 265 70 15 on an 8" wheel wouldn't fit under the rear? I know the offset will matter as well, but it looks like I have a couple of inches on either side with the current 225 70 15s.

 

I agree with post #2... I used the speedway kit, and a "universal" booster and master cylinder. There was some fabrication involved, but it was fairly simple. Double flaring brake lines is also pretty easy, check YouTube for some videos and google for some articles on how to do it correctly. DO NOT try to rush the flaring process. Do a few practice flares and you will learn the little tricks that you'll hear mentioned on YouTube. Brake lines were the most difficult part of my build, mostly because I thought I knew how to properly flare the lines. Be patient with the process and you'll get good results. Expect to re-flare some of the lines...

 

On the rear brakes, I adjust them until you can just hear it drag when spinning it and leave it there.

On the wheels and tires, I am running 15x7 rims now (had 15x8 before but prefer the style of these if not the width). I am running 255/60 on the front and 275/60 on the rear with plenty of clearance. Backspace is neutral (3.5" centered). Springs are stock - probably sagging but not drop springs.

 

I'll look harder at the Speedway kit and be sure to checkout You Tube for some pointers. I guess the internet is good for something!

Nice looking rig dmack! I believe I remember you saying it was a pile of parts just a couple of years ago? That body work looks great. Are those new fenders or did you just beat them into submission? The wheels/tires are nice as well, and someday I might get something a little different, but we'll see. Thanks again guys and keep it coming, I'll have to order soon to get everything here in time......

 

Thanks. It was a pile of parts two and a half years ago. Got it done and been driving it daily for the last 6 months. Most of the parts were in the cab and box when I got it. This pic is the day I got it home, all $450 worth of it. For reference, I have around $6500 total into it by now (all those $20-40 purchases add up quickly).



All the fenders are original. Lots of hammering a welding involved. One rear fender needed four patches. Never tried body or paint before this, so I was happy with the results. Not perfect, but I can say that I did it all myself. I was lucky that the 289/C4 that were in it and sitting uncovered outside for several years only needed minor work and seem to function fine.

Lots of backyard engineering and figuring out to get it done, but that is half the fun.

Keep at it and you will be driving it in no time.

As for the tires and wheels, I realize that being in AK limits you more than most of us, but keep in mind that if you keep with the factory 5x5.5" bolt pattern, most pre-mid 2000's F150, Dodge 1/2 ton, and Jeep CJ wheels use the same bolt pattern. Not as common as Chevy, but there are a lot of used rims out there for a good price generally.

 

Dave,
You are killing me with that $6500 number! I thought I was cheap but not in your league! Good luck on the brakes Sere! It may take you a couple of passes at it - go slow & check everything before you go roaring out there.

Our's locked up about a 1/4 mile from the house on our maiden voyage. It took us a while to find that that pushrod from the pedal to the master cylinder was about 1/8 inch too long & residual pressure built up in the system & locked it up.

Looking good in Alaska!

Ben in Austin
1950 F1

 

Where abouts are you in Alaska if ya don't mind sharing?

 

Well done dmack! I'll be over that budget for sure, but it's not easy finding these old trucks up here, right Y Block? I'm up near Fairbanks by the way,no doubt a long way from you. Most folks don't understand the size of the greatest state in the Union. About 2 1/2 times the size of Texas Ben, don't be upset.....
I like the way the 255s look on the 7" rims. I couldn't find a Ford 8" that matches my 7's and that would except the original size/style hubcaps, so I'll be sticking with the 7's. I did score some used beauty rings though.
I'll probably be making a separate post out of this, but I thought I'd see if you guys could take a look at the rear end and help me out. I need to start ordering parts for the brakes as I plan on redoing everything from front to back. I took some pictures of what I'm seeing and was wondering if you guys can tell me what the parts might be called. I also need to get my E-brake hooked up. I have the original in from the front to the junction point, but that's it. It has a 9" under the rear and I have no clue how I would hook up the parking brake even if I did have the cables in hand. Any advice/info would be appreciated. Here's what I have:

 

Here's some shots of the rear end. Anyone know what year it might be? No tag on it, but there are a few numbers that don't make sense for a date stamp. 7A5 is what it says.....

 

Here's my junction for the E brake. Anyone know if those little brackets next to the junction is what the rear cables go through. or better yet,anyone hooked up the E brake on a similar 9"? Thanks fellas!

 

Looks like you have the pivot so you should be able to find some regular Ford 9" e brake cables and hook them to it. Here is a pic of the brake components :

https://www.google.com/search?q=ford...ml%3B500%3B475

The part called the actuating arm at the 4 o'clock position is what the cable hooks to.

You can get all of the brake parts at NAPA. Shoes, hardware kit, and cylinders should be around $50 CONUS (not sure about AK, but it is still reasonable to get all the parts).

Not sure how to tell what it is out of without a tag, but they are fairly consistent in components. I think some may have had wider shoes as an option, but not sure.

 

Thanks dmack. I still don't see where the cable even goes into the drum assembly, but I'll figure it out.
As for the disc conversion kit, I'm leaning towards CPP just because they're kits are so complete and the MC includes the bracket needed. I just don't have anything to fab a bracket with. I wish Speedway had the whole kit and caboodle, but I didn't see the MC for a 49. Anyone else want to chime in? Thanks again, and I'll post some sort of tutorial of how it goes.