I have a Y block partially apart. Distributer, oil pump, oil pan, intake, exhaust manifolds, valley pan, and rockers are off the engine. Heads are still attached to block. When I blow compressed air into the oil passages on the heads, should it blow freely and un restricted? One side seems to blow with less resistance than the other. Eventually, this engine will be torn down for rebuild, but for now I just want to get it running. I do not know if the rockers were getting oil before I tore it down. I did squirt a little Kroil Oil (penetrating oil) on the side with the most resistance to air pressure, but I have not seen any sign of the oil passing thru the engine. I assumed it would drip out the bottom if the passage was clear?

Would using a high power water pressure washer be an option or a bad idea?

 

Well heck, since ya got er that far down now, as a practical matter I'd put on a pot of coffee and yank those heads just to be sure, lol.

Easy to say, but that's what it sounds like. Air pressure sounds like it should work too. I would not want to run water through oil passages? Now, if you could somehow run pressurized OIL, like a kind of brake bleeder on steroids, that would be a plan. Maybe a pressure bleeder filled with kero, MMO, type F, and flush later. There's some kind of dogleg between the cam bearings in the block and heads or somesuch. So long as they are open and good quality oil installed and/or at least changed out semi periodically the oiling issues won't factor. Peace of mind is good, here.

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I hear what your saying Tedster9. Im only a few bolts away from getting to the restriction. That assuming that I can get to the restriction with the heads off. I may try putting it all back together and turning the oil pump with a drill to see if I get good oil coming out those supply holes in the head for the rocker shafts.

Eventually I would like to upgrade heads so just wasting head gaskets to remove them and put them back.

Thanks for getting back to me.

 

Yeah, there's gotta be a simple way to back flush oil or solvent through the oil passage, that would be a good plan if ya don't want to remove cylinder heads. Hand pump, anything should work.

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As long as the cam shaft is still in the engine, you're not going to blow anything out. Any crud is going to collect at the cam bearing.

 

In that case, running a qt of marvel's or something like that a few engine hours before an oil change might be an idea, to keep things free flowing. With a good detergent type oil, it seems like the Y block oiling system is OK.

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I decided to fill the rocker oiler on the other side of the engine to see if I would get oil running out the bottom any faster than the first side I tried. No difference, both sides back up to overflow then slowly the level goes down so I can add more oil. Not much dripping out the bottom of the engine. All I can say is the oil is going somewhere and never seems to stay at the top of the hole too long on either side.

 

early y blocks did not have constant oil to the rockers. rotate the engine while putting air to it and see if there is a difference.

 

Thanks C-7, I actually thought that might be an option but never tried it. I will get to it.

 

That's so friggin brilliant!

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You nailed it C7. I put a rubber tip nozzle on the air gun and put the air to the supply hole on the head. Obviously, still not a great flow. As I turned the crank, it came to a spot and blew without resistance. As I continued turning the crank, the side that was opened closed back up and shortly after I came to a spot where the other side opened up. Both sides blew freely when the engine was at the right position.

Im hoping this means my oil passages to the rockers are clear. I still want to do the manual counter clockwise turn of the oil pump drive shaft with a drill, but question: While turning the oil pump with a drill, do I still have to rotate the crank to get oil to the rockers?

Thanks for the tip, it made my day to hear that air open wide up.

 

Sounds like you are good to go, good troubleshooting tip!!

It must have been a concern at the time because of the outside oilers folks would install? This adds a level of concern, maybe. Guess you took care of that! Was it the non-detergent oils back then??

What oil weight do you run? 10W-30 is the manual rec for some engines tho it sounds like a lotta guys are running 15-40 in the Y blocks with good results. Measuring oil pressure would help here too.

Lately everyone is spooled up about zinc and EP additives that may or may not be included in the latest oils and possible damage to cams or flat tappet solid lifter engines. So... that's something else to be worried about if you want! Use a good quality, heavy duty oil and filter and the Y blocks seem to oil OK.

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I think you will have to turn the engine, the early cams had crossed drilled oil passage in the cam journal that have to line up with the oil passage in the bearing and block, just like you did when using air. Late models had a grove that went around the cam journal rather then holes and oiled all the. time.

 

Jim, that makes sense. If I dont see oil you can rest assured I will be pullin on my crank.