I was in the process of re- doing the brakes on my 68, F-100, 360. I had an interesting problem in the front. When you hit the brakes the right would lock up and not release. You had to relieve the pressure at the wheel cylender to get tit to unlock. After much crawling loosening and cursing, I found it was the brake hose that was clogged with 45 years of gunk. That was enough, the steel lines are good but everything else is being replaced or rebuilt.

I got around to the rear and when I pulled the right drum everything was soaked with oil. The wheel cylinder is tight, no leaks, its definately the axle seal. I searched it up on this site, seems pretty simple, rotate the flange to loosen the bolte, pull the axle replace the seal and the 2 gaskets.

Is there anything else that I should know before I get started on this?

Thanks, Tony

 

I'd replace both sides since they are likely the same age.
Apply a very thin film of RTV around the seal before installing.
Lube the seal prior to inserting the axle.
Use a torque wrench.

 

The fronts are easy. As above.
The rears, not so.
You have leaking axle seals. You will need a slide hammer puller to remove the axles. Rental shop. After that, you will need the puller with a hook to pull out the axle seals. You must be very careful in replacing the seals as they can get warped and bent on the way in. You will be back in again if they are not driven in properly. There is a driver tool to do this. And, if the vehicle is original, it would be a good idea to replace the axle bearings. And check the lube level in the differential as you have a leak.
If I am wrong the guys will correct me.
If you are not familiar with the rear-end problem I would advise you to go to a shop if it a once-in-a-lifetime repair.

Semper Fi

 

2X CougarJohn with one addition. You can use the brake drum as the axle slide hammer. Just put the drum back on backwards. Put the lug nuts on backwards about 6 threads or so. Now slide the drum back and forth just as you would a slide hammer.

 

Every axle I have removed from a 9 inch ford rear end came right out without any type of puller?

Am I lucky?

 

I've just popped the axle seals out using the end of the axle.
When I worked in the dealership, we would replace the axle bearing also. Figuring if the seal leaked enough to soak through the bearing, the grease in the sealed bearing would be "washed" out.

 

I'd also replace the rear wheel cylinders. Looking good from the outside doesn't mean it's not full of crap. And will end up leaking when new lining is installed as it pushes the cups into the crap and will start leaking. Hell new ones at auto zone are only $10 bucks each. I would not waste any time trying to rebuilding them as they mostly are all eaten up inside from moisture settling in bore that won't hone out..Plus the rear rubber flex brake hose as they crack over the yrs..like the fronts do...my 2cents..orich

 

Thanks for the good advice. I'm still playing with the brakes. I rebuilt the fronts and was trying to bleed them but I couldn't free one of the bleeders, I finally got it out but it was trash. So I tried to find another, No luck, no parts house had one in stock, its not a 3/8, its metric, this was about the time when our government decided to go metric and some vehicles came out with metric threads on some parts. A couple said they could order one for about 6 bucks and a rebuilt wheel cylinder is 12. Long story, short, I went back in and installed rebuilts with sae parts. Now the rear end, I'm not sure the seals are shot, the vent hose was plugged, so I filled it up with gear oil and am watching it, If it leaks I'll change both seals

 

Oh yeah the bleeders, I just went through the same thing on my rear cylinders when, I bought new cyls. from auto zone. The new Bleeder were metric wrench nut size only and cylinder threads were standard ase.
Not metric so use my old ones.. worked for me...orich