What year models are best for running B100
#1
What year models are best for running B100
Looking to buy an older truck that I have the option of running B100 or possibly WVO if I want to without having to worry about clogged injectors and such. From what I have read on here people are saying Pre 95'. I was looking at 99-05 but I saw that the 6.0 would have problems with with B100. Would the 99-03 7.3 have the same problems? Just trying to figure out what would work best. I am not interested in winning any races as far as power goes and i don't care about body style. It's a ford they all look good, Just trying to figure out where I need to focus my search here. Thanks guys.
#2
I have run B-100 in my 7.3 IDI 1994 & 7.3 2002 Powerstroke for years (6-7) and had no problem. You just need to keep a spare fuel filter around as 100% will clean you fuel system and push any garbage in the fuel system righe to the filter in short order when you first start using 100%.
On my 2007 6.0 have had no issues for nearly 50K mikes of burning 100% bio, But I have do not use it during cold weather IE; 40 deg or less.
And here is the reason the stuff I brew at home in colder temps will have what I call fat drop out at colder temps and plug the primary fuel filter mounted on the frame rail. My old 7.3 PS had only one fuel filter in the valley of the moter with an electric heating element and never had a problem down to about 25deg. but I did not push it any colder than that before i switched back to petro diesel.
Some other guys have had some good luck running high blends of bio in post 2007 6.4 motors. They might jump in here.
So if you are not making your own Bio, most of the stuff you can buy is pretty good quality you should not have any issues 2007 and older
Good luck!!
On my 2007 6.0 have had no issues for nearly 50K mikes of burning 100% bio, But I have do not use it during cold weather IE; 40 deg or less.
And here is the reason the stuff I brew at home in colder temps will have what I call fat drop out at colder temps and plug the primary fuel filter mounted on the frame rail. My old 7.3 PS had only one fuel filter in the valley of the moter with an electric heating element and never had a problem down to about 25deg. but I did not push it any colder than that before i switched back to petro diesel.
Some other guys have had some good luck running high blends of bio in post 2007 6.4 motors. They might jump in here.
So if you are not making your own Bio, most of the stuff you can buy is pretty good quality you should not have any issues 2007 and older
Good luck!!
#3
#5
#7
I would stay away from it. I know regular diesel is added to thin it out, but I haven't heard anything incredibly positive about it. The viscosity is a problem, but I think that polymerization of the injectors can be a bigger issue. Why not run biodiesel and not have to worry about modifying your truck or car?
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#10
+1 I have been running B100 in my late '99 7.3PSD for 2 years now from Glover Oil right here in town!
From what they tell me its made from Beef Tallow from "out west"
From what they tell me its made from Beef Tallow from "out west"
#11
There is no problem running B100 in any PSD. The fuel system can handle it just fine. Cold weather operation depends on the feedstock the B100 was made from and the gel point can vary from <30*F to >80*F. (commercial B100 is often ~40*) I would keep a sample of recent purchase in a water bottle and place outside as it starts to get cold - and start adding D2 as needed to keep it from gelling.
Many report initially changing filters, etc due to 'cleaning out the fuel system' - but none of the vehicles I have put B100 in had that problem. I recommend ANYBODY who wants to run 'alternative fuel' in a PSD install a fuel pressure gauge post-filter anyway - then you'll KNOW if/when a filter is plugging up!
Also, ALL PSD's should do the 'in-tank' mods that delete the factory in-tank mixing chamber and non-serviceable filter. Just use something like a WIX 33972 before the pump (don't use anything 'finer' than 50 mic here - 150 mic is ideal).
WMO? Bad idea. There are a few claims of 'success' running blends of WMO, RUG, Kero, etc - but they are far and few between (and their success is often reported through rose-colored glasses ). The fact is, WMO blends will produce copious amounts of toxic smoke from the tailpipe and eventually coke up the combustion chamber. Lots of engines have ended up in the scrap metal bin as a result of this 'experiment' - but very few people come back on the 'net and say they failed.... I always say 'Choose wisely - or please post pics of the carnage'.
Many report initially changing filters, etc due to 'cleaning out the fuel system' - but none of the vehicles I have put B100 in had that problem. I recommend ANYBODY who wants to run 'alternative fuel' in a PSD install a fuel pressure gauge post-filter anyway - then you'll KNOW if/when a filter is plugging up!
Also, ALL PSD's should do the 'in-tank' mods that delete the factory in-tank mixing chamber and non-serviceable filter. Just use something like a WIX 33972 before the pump (don't use anything 'finer' than 50 mic here - 150 mic is ideal).
WMO? Bad idea. There are a few claims of 'success' running blends of WMO, RUG, Kero, etc - but they are far and few between (and their success is often reported through rose-colored glasses ). The fact is, WMO blends will produce copious amounts of toxic smoke from the tailpipe and eventually coke up the combustion chamber. Lots of engines have ended up in the scrap metal bin as a result of this 'experiment' - but very few people come back on the 'net and say they failed.... I always say 'Choose wisely - or please post pics of the carnage'.
#12
#13
I run virgin 0/20 full syn moter oil blended with #2 at 50/50, over 5,000 miles with no smoke, or starting problems, just up graded to zd9 glows, removed champion's, no coke on glows, if I mix 70/30 she starts hard.. but if I add 3 or 4 % RUG starts fine. stock filter and lift pump.
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