So I bought the above truck. Love everything, except one item. Have to start it by jumpering the relay under the hood. After checking a few things (for example, key turns off truck just fine, turns everything on EXCEPT the engine) decided to try checking (jumpering)the clutch safety switch.

Thats the issue. Can't seem to locate the thing. I have ran my hand up the clutch arm didnt notice anything. My guess is the it can be jumpered anywhere along the circuit, the two easiest places being the switch itself the other being where it connects into the main wiring harness. Cant find the switch, and when I look under the hood on the drivers side I see 6! separate connectors going into the main wiring harness, 2 black, 4 other colors.

So, if anyone could lend a hand that would be appreciated, keep in mind a complete noob, so "under the dash" probably wont help, but "remove panel x, at the far back right side, red and blue wires" would be. Also if anyone can tell me the correct connector under the hood, could probably jumper there.

Noob to engines, noob to diesels, but been driving sticks for 20+ years, fully aware of why the switch is there and the implications of jumpering it.

Happy Independence Day!

-J

 

Right above the accelerator pedal. The linkage to the clutch master cylinder is there, the switch is on the pushrod. The 2 red wires with the blue tracer are the ones you need to connect to bypass it.

 

11A152 shown in pic at left center, clutch pedal is 7519 // 1984/86 switch is one type, 1987 switch is 1987 only.

1C3Z-11A152-AA (replaced E8TZ-11A152-A & F57Z-11A152-A) .. M/T Starter Safety Switch (Motorcraft SW-5993).

1988/96 F150/350 & Bronco / 1997/2010 F250/350 // 1988/90 Bronco II / 1988/97 Aerostar/Ranger / 1988/2001 Econoline / 1991/97 Explorer.

 

The setup I d\described is on my 92, I thought the 87-91's were the same but I may be wrong.

 

Absolutely perfect instructions, thank you both!

-J

 

Might want to check the clutch cylinder & pushrod connection. Thought the switch was going bad on mine and went to jumper it. Got under dash and found the problem was the linkage was just barely hanging together, had enough slop it wouldn't activate switch. Shop put in a new locking plastic piece but because the hole in the clutch rod was out of round it didn't last long. Currently have a cotter key in the groove at the end of the pushrod, working do far.

 

welcome to FTE.
your starting problem could also be a broken ignition actuator.
common problem with these older trucks.
easy test for a broken actuator is to feel up on top of the steering column for a thin rod. turn the key and you feel the rod move. if it moves through it's full range it is the clutch switch or fender mount starter relay.
if the rod stops moving just before you hit the start position, the actuator is bad.
another way to tell the actuator is bad is to feel for spring tension in the key when you get to start. if you feel no resistance and the key does not pop back a bit when you release it from start, the actuator is bad.

 

I had my 89 F250 7.3 in a repair shop and the guy there told me it would not start and I needed a new starter. Turned out the starter was fine, he just wasn't pushing the clutch pedal quite far enough. On my truck, if the pedal is even a quarter inch from the bottom, the puppy won't start. Has to be ALL the way depressed to the floor.

So, maybe the first thing to try is: scootch your seat ahead a couple notches so you can push the clutch pedal with better leverage.

 

....and make sure your floormat isn't blocking the pedal.

 

Using the above instructions, located the push rod going into the master cylinder, no clutch safety switch (assume that means no cruise control too)...

There were a number wires from the missing switch spliced together. So I will assume (watch it come back to bite me in the ****) they are spliced correctly. The pushrod doesnt have any slop in it (looks fairly new, in fact most of the ignition system looks new, except for the ignition switch! (new batteries, new fender relay, new short circuit protector, new pushrod)).

Gonna look at tjc's recommendation next, broken ignition actuator. If that doesn't work out, going to grab a voltmeter and try and trace it. Like to do it myself but ace in the hole is my neighbor (retired air force, retired doe machinists, swear he could build a car from just sand, iron ore and a rubber tree).

Thanks for the patience everyone...

-J

 

That actuator (FORD part number E9TZ-3E715-B) is a very common problem on the 91 & older trucks. Not an expensive part, but a bugger to change, so I'm told.

 

the first time i did one i did it according to the book and removed the column. took close to 5 hours.
i have since done at least 50 actuators over the years and can now do one in truck in less than 2 hours.

 

Here is the write I found. Any hints/shortcuts you have (be weekend job for me)?

Originally Posted by jas88 View Post
This is my personal write-up from the last time I did mine:

Steps for Replacing Steering Column Actuator 1987-91

1) Remove steering wheel.
2) Remove the turn signal lever.
3) Remove two-piece plastic column cover that hides column where it meets dash.
4) Drop column down and remove ignition switch. Put column back up but do not tighten bolts.
5) Remove ignition lock cylinder.
6) Remove lock cylinder gear (snap ring pliers required). It is down in the hole that you took the lock cylinder out of.
7) Disconnect turn signal switch harness and then pull turn signal switch out and let it hang by wires.
8) Remove ignition lock cylinder collar (slide it over the turn signal switch).
9) Press actuator and rod towards dash so you can remove the actuator gear (the thing with the gear teeth on it that is linked to the actuator and rod).
10) Remove the snap ring on steering shaft.
11) Remove the little round metal bar (multiple bends in it) and two clips that operates the tilt. PAY ATTENTION HERE - there is a little spring like out of pen that is behind it with a metal cap on it. Remove that so you don’t lose it.
12) Drive the pin out of the tilt lock lever on the underside of the column. There is a spring underneath it with a plastic pad so pull those out too so you don’t lose them.
13) Thread a bolt or screw into the inside threaded pins that hold the tilt together and pull them out. You should put the tilt all the way up before you do this so you unload the spring.
14) Slide the tilt collar towards you on the shaft enough to get the actuator and rod out.
15) Pull the actuator and rod out. Put in vise and drive the little pin out to separate rod and actuator. Reassemble with new actuator. TIP – use a pair of pliers to press the pin back in so you don’t have to hit on it with a hammer.
16) Put a light coat of grease on the slides where the actuator goes and put the assembled actuator and rod back into column.
17) Put a light coat of grease on the swivel where the tilt collar goes and press the pins back in. TIP – You will be fighting the spring to do this so it helps to stick a screw in one side to hold it in place, then line up the other side and put a pin in. Once you have the pin in on one side, replace the screw on the first side with the other pin.
18) Reassemble starting with step #12 and go in reverse. TIP – Put a light coating of grease in the lock cylinder collar where the actuator gear and cylinder gear go.

 

that looks about rite.
but i don't do steps 4,5, or 6.
(remove the ignition switch, take out the key cylinder, or cylinder gear)