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2001 F-150 Ignition cylinder and Steering Wheel lock dilemma!!

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Old 06-27-2013, 10:22 AM
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2001 F-150 Ignition cylinder and Steering Wheel lock dilemma!!

Hello, everyone. I'm a new member, and I am desperate for some feedback of ANY kind. I just bought a 2001 F-150 XLT and I've had it about 2 days. When I put the key in the ignition, the key won't turn forward to engage. There is no steering wheel lock issue, because it's not functioning. The key is a transponder key, and is the ONLY key (a total of 1) that the seller had. There is no key fob. I managed, after about 10 minutes of fighting, jiggling, and cursing to get the key to move forward, so the truck's ignition cylinder is currently in the engaged position. Lucky for me, the key slips right out. So far, my only option that I've come to understand is to pop the cylinder out (I can do this because the cylinder is in the engaged position and I have the key), go buy a new cylinder, have a locksmith re-pin the lock to my original key, and re-install. As far as I know, this should eliminate the PATS issue as it would be the same key for the ignition AND the door locks (no key fob). I'm hoping this is a cut-and-dry issue, but I'm not sure...anyone know if I will experience ANY problems with the PATS or the fact that the steering wheel lock seems to be either broken or damaged beyond the capacity to engage? I've heard horror stories of the steering wheel locking mechanism being in pieces inside the column making it hard to impossible to replace the cylinder. Any help or opinion would be appreciated! Thanks, everyone. I'm happy to be here!!!
 
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Old 11-23-2013, 05:47 PM
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Sounds like the key is pretty worn out here. One option is to hit up your ford dealer, take the registration so they can see the VIN, they can make 2 new keys for your rig.
The new keys will need to be programmed to your truck.
Hope this helps.
 
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Old 11-23-2013, 09:34 PM
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when you turn the key, it pushes a rod down the steering shaft to unlock and turn on the ignition switch.... are you sure the key/ tumbler is the problem and not the rod / mechanism / switch ?
 
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