F250 set up for towing 3 tonne caravan
#2
Hi Brian B, from the other thread I think you've got the basics covered:
1) 4" turbo back exhaust;
2) Tuner (which one and what tunes are you running?);
3) Intake (K&N do not have a good reputation on F250's);
4) Wicked Wheel (Compressor wheel change).
recommended next mods:
1) Gauges - EGT, boost, trans temp;
2) John Woods valve body (for the trans);
3) AIH delete;
4) EBPV delete & high flow turbo outlet;
5) Overboost Code Regulator;
6) Aramid IC boots.
Anyone else care to chime in?
1) 4" turbo back exhaust;
2) Tuner (which one and what tunes are you running?);
3) Intake (K&N do not have a good reputation on F250's);
4) Wicked Wheel (Compressor wheel change).
recommended next mods:
1) Gauges - EGT, boost, trans temp;
2) John Woods valve body (for the trans);
3) AIH delete;
4) EBPV delete & high flow turbo outlet;
5) Overboost Code Regulator;
6) Aramid IC boots.
Anyone else care to chime in?
#3
Hi Brian B, from the other thread I think you've got the basics covered:
1) 4" turbo back exhaust;
2) Tuner (which one and what tunes are you running?);
3) Intake (K&N do not have a good reputation on F250's);
4) Wicked Wheel (Compressor wheel change).
recommended next mods:
1) Gauges - EGT, boost, trans temp;
2) John Woods valve body (for the trans);
3) AIH delete;
4) EBPV delete & high flow turbo outlet;
5) Overboost Code Regulator;
6) Aramid IC boots.
Anyone else care to chime in?
1) 4" turbo back exhaust;
2) Tuner (which one and what tunes are you running?);
3) Intake (K&N do not have a good reputation on F250's);
4) Wicked Wheel (Compressor wheel change).
recommended next mods:
1) Gauges - EGT, boost, trans temp;
2) John Woods valve body (for the trans);
3) AIH delete;
4) EBPV delete & high flow turbo outlet;
5) Overboost Code Regulator;
6) Aramid IC boots.
Anyone else care to chime in?
he towing setting.
I know the K&N are not great but I am puzzled about what
to use.
I want to fit a snorkel but there is no air box I can find that
allows a snorkel to be attached and keep water out.
How important is the overboost regulator? It sounds like
something that's going to need setting up rather than just
bolting on.
#4
Brain B, you've got some reading to do on the Riff Raff site, all of the above are bolt on.
Some of the air filter options listed on the RR site come with their own airbox and battery tray. These can be connected up to a snorkel (as Brian has done), but note that many of these filters with the air boxes have no top as they're designed to be 'sealed' by the bonnet. However, this 'seal' would not be water-tight enough to wade though bonnet depth water.
The over boost reg merely limits the pressure going into the MAP sensor, the OCR is factory set to 22 psi. Generally if you go over 24psi boost the computer can start de-fuelling and you may get an error code.
Some of the air filter options listed on the RR site come with their own airbox and battery tray. These can be connected up to a snorkel (as Brian has done), but note that many of these filters with the air boxes have no top as they're designed to be 'sealed' by the bonnet. However, this 'seal' would not be water-tight enough to wade though bonnet depth water.
The over boost reg merely limits the pressure going into the MAP sensor, the OCR is factory set to 22 psi. Generally if you go over 24psi boost the computer can start de-fuelling and you may get an error code.
#5
Brain B, you've got some reading to do on the Riff Raff site, all of the above are bolt on.
Some of the air filter options listed on the RR site come with their own airbox and battery tray. These can be connected up to a snorkel (as Brian has done), but note that many of these filters with the air boxes have no top as they're designed to be 'sealed' by the bonnet. However, this 'seal' would not be water-tight enough to wade though bonnet depth water.
The over boost reg merely limits the pressure going into the MAP sensor, the OCR is factory set to 22 psi. Generally if you go over 24psi boost the computer can start de-fuelling and you may get an error code.
Some of the air filter options listed on the RR site come with their own airbox and battery tray. These can be connected up to a snorkel (as Brian has done), but note that many of these filters with the air boxes have no top as they're designed to be 'sealed' by the bonnet. However, this 'seal' would not be water-tight enough to wade though bonnet depth water.
The over boost reg merely limits the pressure going into the MAP sensor, the OCR is factory set to 22 psi. Generally if you go over 24psi boost the computer can start de-fuelling and you may get an error code.
I have been doing the research at Riffraff, lots to get!
It will all happen slowly as financial situation allows.
I already have the bypass oil filter and fuel filter to fit and will be
doing the hutch thing when I get the pipe bending tool and the
rest of the bits of tube, fittings and replacement foot.
The HPX is on its way.
That lot will keep me busy for a while.
I will do more research on the air intake and snorkel thing.
Thanks for your words of wisdom.
#7
Hutch thing off the shelf:
Driven Diesel Fuel Tank / Pre-Pump Kit
Driven Diesel Fuel Tank / Pre-Pump Kit
DIY is cheaper and I have the required tools and skills.
Thanks for the link.
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#8
Riffraff Diesel: Ford AIS Extended Life Filter Kit
Riffraff Diesel: S&B Cold Air Intake Kit - Dry Flow Element
check with Clay on the AIS if it has the snorkel inlet. But the S&B does and there is a cover for the top..
Also bro. Start saving for a new Trans. Maybe not now, but it will happen.
Riffraff Diesel: S&B Cold Air Intake Kit - Dry Flow Element
check with Clay on the AIS if it has the snorkel inlet. But the S&B does and there is a cover for the top..
Also bro. Start saving for a new Trans. Maybe not now, but it will happen.
#9
Riffraff Diesel: Ford AIS Extended Life Filter Kit
Riffraff Diesel: S&B Cold Air Intake Kit - Dry Flow Element
check with Clay on the AIS if it has the snorkel inlet. But the S&B does and there is a cover for the top..
Also bro. Start saving for a new Trans. Maybe not now, but it will happen.
Riffraff Diesel: S&B Cold Air Intake Kit - Dry Flow Element
check with Clay on the AIS if it has the snorkel inlet. But the S&B does and there is a cover for the top..
Also bro. Start saving for a new Trans. Maybe not now, but it will happen.
I thought the Volant kit looked like the best option.
They all seem to have a second inlet on the air box
that would require sealing up to be watertight.
I am aware of the transmission problems and will be
dealing with that before I go towing the van.
Thanks.
#10
TOWING UPGRADES
You can see from my sig what I've done for heavy duty rough road caravan towing.
The best thing was the extra tranny cooling, John Woods valve body, guages, exhaust & intake. With all that done, the towing performace is made so much better with the 6 Position Power Hungry Performance (PHP) chip set up with 4 x Towing tunes 1 x Daily Driver and 1 x Performance tune.
Like you all done by myself and easy to do.
I'm down in Victor Harbor.
Cheers,
Reg .
#11
G'day Brian,
You can see from my sig what I've done for heavy duty rough road caravan towing.
The best thing was the extra tranny cooling, John Woods valve body, guages, exhaust & intake. With all that done, the towing performace is made so much better with the 6 Position Power Hungry Performance (PHP) chip set up with 4 x Towing tunes 1 x Daily Driver and 1 x Performance tune.
Like you all done by myself and easy to do.
I'm down in Victor Harbor.
Cheers,
Reg .
You can see from my sig what I've done for heavy duty rough road caravan towing.
The best thing was the extra tranny cooling, John Woods valve body, guages, exhaust & intake. With all that done, the towing performace is made so much better with the 6 Position Power Hungry Performance (PHP) chip set up with 4 x Towing tunes 1 x Daily Driver and 1 x Performance tune.
Like you all done by myself and easy to do.
I'm down in Victor Harbor.
Cheers,
Reg .
You have certainly put a lot of work into your truck.
I will gradually be doing similar stuff to mine.
If I am ever heading down Victor way I'll give you a heads up.
Unfortunatley due to liver problems my days are
over but I do enjoy a good espresso.
Keep the shiney side up as they say.
#12
Well it looks like you are on your way Brian. And yes it does cost money but as you said a little at a time. I would do the basics like Reg's set up and that will get you out of trouble. You might of noticed that here on FTE we aint a big fan of the "off the shelf" tuners such as edge and banks. Yes they work but once you compare it against a tuner that is specifically set up for whats on your truck you will understand. It does take a bit more of your time to set up but the benefits are worth it and you will have the piece of mind that your power is derived from other factors than just advancing timing.
oh and btw there aint nothing wrong with the K&N conical filter its the square one you want to avoid.
oh and btw there aint nothing wrong with the K&N conical filter its the square one you want to avoid.
#13
Well it looks like you are on your way Brian. And yes it does cost money but as you said a little at a time. I would do the basics like Reg's set up and that will get you out of trouble. You might of noticed that here on FTE we aint a big fan of the "off the shelf" tuners such as edge and banks. Yes they work but once you compare it against a tuner that is specifically set up for whats on your truck you will understand. It does take a bit more of your time to set up but the benefits are worth it and you will have the piece of mind that your power is derived from other factors than just advancing timing.
oh and btw there aint nothing wrong with the K&N conical filter its the square one you want to avoid.
oh and btw there aint nothing wrong with the K&N conical filter its the square one you want to avoid.
Would I be better off doing the transmission job before getting into the
upgraded tuners?
#14
#15
when I bought it and the previous owner set it to towing option as he
used the truck to tow his van.
I did not think you were pushing anything.