I pulled the 361 out of my 73 F600 and after looking forever have a replacement engine to go in. Both times I removed the engine I had a lot of issues getting the engine and transmission to separate. I think what was happening was as I angle the motor up to clear the front cross member it bound up thru the clutch off the transmission.

Going back together is going to an even bigger challenge so I was wondering if I would be time ahead to pull the transmission and try and install them as a unit. Normally I would just do that but the way the transmission bolts to it's mount it almost looks to me like it cannot be angled up from the bottom. It would have to go in over the transmission mounts which would cause other issues with the firewall.

Anyone have any old timer good tips for the installation? Any help is greatly appreciated.

 

Not sure about your truck, but it sounds to me like if you pulled the tranny and then the bellhousing from the engine, then you could lift the engine without the input shaft and retainer causing you any more troubles.

 

This may not be proper but sometimes there is enough give in the transmission mount to place a floor jack under the bellhousing or the front of the tranny case and jck it up enough to meet the angle of the engine as it goes in. This would only work with clearance under the cab and a flexible transmission mount of course but it has help me in the past.

As to your engine search, have you considered a 390 out of a car? Maybe the different mounting hardware from the 361 could be swapped to the 390 block and you would have a fresh motor with a little more pep? Ive never been able to grab an FT motor for myself to see, but ive heard something like this could be done.

Edit:I just remembered the bellhousing has the rear motor mounts so disregard that part about jacking the transmission.

 

As for the car motor, his front mount is off his iron front cover, and as you note, the rear mounts are on the bell. There are a number of issues with swapping a car motor into a truck like this, mounts is one, manifolds are different, accessory drives are not the same either. Plus that more pep is going to find the next weakest link in the power chain--drive shaft, rear axle, brakes.....

 

Yeah, im familiar with upgrading a part only to break another, its just an option. Other than the crank snout size I was under the impression all those dodads on the FT would bolt right to and FE block? Anything is better than a crummy motor.

 

You could swap the front cover, but you need a bushing to fill the gap caused by the smaller crank snout. Not sure you can bolt the same pulley to the FE crank that was used on the FT. Doubt it.

Looks like the OP did find a motor, just wants to get it in without breaking things, doing it 4 times or killing himself.

 

Ok, thats what i thought. And I know how that can go, could he possibly just unbolt the front transmission mounts and jack it up a tad. That seems like the easiest solution to his issue.

 

Yea, to get it angled up to match the angle of the motor. One of these could become a friend:

Arcan Engine Load Leveler — 2 Way, 1500-Lb. Capacity, Model# CL1250 | Hoisting Accessories| Northern Tool + Equipment

 

Well I cannot imagine even thinking about pulling the engine without first dropping out the transmission. That is the only way that I have ever done this. Then the bell housing comes out still attached to the engine. Same going back in, the motor and bell housing combo go in, then the tranny is slipped up into place.

At least that is how I have done it for the last 35+ years or so.

David

 

When working on a truck that has bell housing style motor mounts I remove the engine by separating the engine from the bell. Let the bell and trans in the truck and support as needed, usually a ratchet strap under the trans. This is the easiest way I have found to R@R an engine.


Have A Great Day ------- Hotwrench

 

This is what I was afraid I was going to need to do, thank you for everyone that gave advice.