Hey guys, got this idea from my buddy Don, the Oregon CL (thanks, man!). Post up any tips/ tools/ whatever that you use in the shop.

I made a rottiserie for the 67 frame, using 2 engine stands, and made 2 cross pieces out of tubing to attach them. One thing, make sure both engine stands are vertically straight, otherwise it will be tough to turn the frame (learned this firsthand!)

 

Well, since Pat borrowed (read stolen) my idea I guess I'll add a couple of things also (since Pat asked soooo nice.....LOL)

The first is my floordry recycler. It is a 55 gal drum (you could use a 30 gallon if you want) it is on wheels so I can roll it around the shop. It has a removable expanded metal screen recesed in the open top, and hangers for a small brush, dustpan, and broom holders. Works great, and saves a bunch of cash. Here is what it looks like!

 

This is another "thing" Pat wanted me to post. it is a cutting/welding/fabrication table. The top is a piece of 1/2" plate, and a "grid" of iron on the other side. I added 4 "sockets" that accept a large vice that just slips into any one of the sockets. The grid side will have a sheet metal Hopper with a drawer underneath to collect the "slag". It has two 4 way electrical plugs and hangers for tools, clamps etc. It also has 4 oversized wheels, so I can roll it from room to room.

 

Last fall I replaced the suspension bushings and king pins in Frodo, my '69 F250 CS. One puzzler I ran into was how to get the new axle pivot bushings into the old metal shells still in the I-beams.
Here's how I done it: ( excerpted from a post I made elsewhere on the web)

So, I was all set to install the bushings, but how to press them in? Ford makes a special tool for the job, but I'm sure it's hard to find and pretty pricey when you do! So I made something. I cut three pieces of 2" x 3/16 steel bar. One is 1.990" inches long, the other two are 1" long. In the long piece, I drilled a 1/2" hole through the center of the piece. I then welded the other two pieces vertically on each side. This allows me to straddle the metal I-beam bushing shell, but be snug enough so the tool doesn't wander. I had to weld this with flux core wire, as I am out of shielding gas for MIG. (I really don't care for flux core. It makes a lot of smoke, and I can't see what I'm doing as well. Plus trying to get the welding gun in there to do the welds!) Here's what it looks like:



To get the bushings started, I had to use one of the big metal washers for the radius rod bushings. This is because the length of the I-beam bushing and the width of the I-beam end exceeded the length of all the 1/2" bolts I have on hand. I could have run out and gotten some 1/2" all thread, but.... nah! Here's how I got the bushings in:
First, put on a disposable glove of some sort, either latex, vinyl, or rubber. This will keep you much cleaner. Get a glob of grease (Mobil-1 synthetic is even red like the bushings!)


and liberally coat the metal bushing insert.


The insert can be pressed easily into the bushing by hand. You want to do this now, as the bushing will compress during installation into the I-beam, making the insert much more difficult to install later.


Now, slather some grease on the outside of the bushing.


When installing the I-beam bushings, note that the flanged side of the bushing goes against the flanged side of the original bushings metal shell.
Get one of the metal washers that go on the radius rod bushings, a 1/2" bolt and nut, and several washers. Slide a couple washers over the bolt, insert the bolt through the bushing, insert the bushing into the end of the I-beam, place the radius rod washer over the bolt, and screw on the nut. This is what it will look like:


Tighten down the nut and the bolt will draw the bushing into the I-beam. The non flanged side of the bushing will contact the radius rod washer, preventing you from drawing the new bushing all the way into the shell.


Remember that tool I made earlier? Well, now is when I needed it. I removed the bolt and washers, and redid the assembly (minus the radius rod washer) with the tool I made.


This shot shows why I made the center piece the length I did. It was the distance between the outer edges of the old metal shell, plus two time the thickness of the steel bar, plus about .005" for clearance.


Tighten down the nut, drawing the bushing the rest of the way into the I-beam.

 

Anyone doing restorations will probably have to deal with spot weld removal. Some of the places they are located can be tough to get a drill into. The cutters are so short, and it makes it tough to get close enough. So, I went to Lowes, and bought this handy bit extension. The spot weld cutter fits nicely into it, and makes it a breeze to cut out welds in tight spots.

 

Invest in good quality pullers. I recommend everyone to have a harmonic balancer/steering wheel puller. I also recommend Posi-Lock brand pullers. They come in a 2 or 3 jaw configuration and are indestructible! Pricey but well worth it!

That's it for now. I'm tired
-Jake

 

Made a nice dolly, for the cab to ride on.

 

Some good info on penetrants, you guys might be able to use!

Penetrating Oils

Machinist's Workshop magazine recently published some information on various penetrating oils that I found very interesting. Some of you might appreciate this.

The magazine reports they tested penetrates for break out torque on rusted nuts. They are below, as forwarded by an ex-student and professional machinist.

They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrates with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.

*Penetrating oils ........... Average torque load to loosen*

No Oil used ................... 516 pounds

WD-40 ..................... ... 238 pounds

PB Blaster .................... 214 pounds

Liquid Wrench ...............127 pounds

Kano Kroil .................... 106 pounds

ATF*-Acetone mix......... 53 pounds

The ATF-Acetone mix is a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note this "home brew" released bolts better than any commercial product in this one particular test. Our local machinist group mixed up a batch and we all now use it with equally good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is almost as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price.

Steve from Godwin-Singer says that ATF-Acetone mix is best, but you can also use ATF and lacquer thinner in a 50-50 mix.