E4OD Bad Torque Converter Symptoms?
#1
E4OD Bad Torque Converter Symptoms?
I recently replaced the E4OD transmission in my 1992 truck with one from a 1994 with 302 engine. The replaced one was working really good other than few issues with a defective new MLPS sensor that I replaced the transmission was smooth and shifting.
Few days ago I noticed a "whirling" noise, This happens not all the time but it's usually noticeable after a stop and when in first gear and goes away when shifting to second gear. It's not loud but enough for me to notice. Most of the times is after I've been driving for 15 to 30 minutes after the engine/transmission warms up. The fluid level is normal and looks fine as far as color and smell.
Today along with the whirling noise I noticed in a hill stop the transmission was not engaged it did after I give gas but felt kind of "draggy" like I have to put more gas to go on. When arrived at my driveway the reverse engaged but it feels like I'm pulling a heavy trailer.
So far I have CEL neither a blinking overdrive light indicator. Just frustrated to have this new problem to figure. My hope is that this relates to the torque converter that came with the transmission and didn't change.
Few minutes ago I started the truck and it's acting normal and engaging without need for gas to do so.
I'll appreciate any comments to figure this ting out and some way to fix it..Thanks!
Few days ago I noticed a "whirling" noise, This happens not all the time but it's usually noticeable after a stop and when in first gear and goes away when shifting to second gear. It's not loud but enough for me to notice. Most of the times is after I've been driving for 15 to 30 minutes after the engine/transmission warms up. The fluid level is normal and looks fine as far as color and smell.
Today along with the whirling noise I noticed in a hill stop the transmission was not engaged it did after I give gas but felt kind of "draggy" like I have to put more gas to go on. When arrived at my driveway the reverse engaged but it feels like I'm pulling a heavy trailer.
So far I have CEL neither a blinking overdrive light indicator. Just frustrated to have this new problem to figure. My hope is that this relates to the torque converter that came with the transmission and didn't change.
Few minutes ago I started the truck and it's acting normal and engaging without need for gas to do so.
I'll appreciate any comments to figure this ting out and some way to fix it..Thanks!
#2
#4
#5
Retrieved Codes KOEO
I did the KOEO test and this are the codes I'm getting:
116 Engine Coolant (ECT) sensor out of range - ECT
636 Transmission Oil Temperature (TOT) sensor out of range - Transmissions
114 IAT sensor out of range - IAT
628 Excessive converter clutch slippage - Transmissions
Code 628 is what I'm suspecting the cause of the problem but having trouble trying to figure. Does this code mean the converter is bad?
Thanks For Your help....
116 Engine Coolant (ECT) sensor out of range - ECT
636 Transmission Oil Temperature (TOT) sensor out of range - Transmissions
114 IAT sensor out of range - IAT
628 Excessive converter clutch slippage - Transmissions
Code 628 is what I'm suspecting the cause of the problem but having trouble trying to figure. Does this code mean the converter is bad?
Thanks For Your help....
#6
Most of those codes are indicating that you didn't warm the truck up operating temperature before pulling the codes..
I suggest you warm it up and try again..
Since E4OD's are completely computer controlled, you will need to attend to ANY codes present, even the most simple DTC code can make the system go into limp mode... Then the strange things start to happen.....
I suggest you warm it up and try again..
Since E4OD's are completely computer controlled, you will need to attend to ANY codes present, even the most simple DTC code can make the system go into limp mode... Then the strange things start to happen.....
#7
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#8
KOEO Fresh Codes, Warmed up this time
The only code present is 628 "Excessive converter clutch slippage - Transmissions"
The other codes I got the first time are all gone. They came in a first wave of codes. Now I had a 111, thereafter the only one was the 628
Now trying to figure this out....Thanks for the help
The other codes I got the first time are all gone. They came in a first wave of codes. Now I had a 111, thereafter the only one was the 628
Now trying to figure this out....Thanks for the help
#9
#12
ATF Level Normal
Warmed up engine, drove a little checked the fluid level on transmission and it's normal, within the crosshatched area. When shift on reverse feels a bit hard than used to. Guess the next will be to find a torque converter.
I'm wondering if would make sense to use the torque converter that I have from the old failed transmission. It's not the original. This torque converter it's painted in blue with a sticker "2001" I'm guessing that's when the previous owner replaced the original converter. Looks a lot like the ones Napa sells.
The one on the truck now should be the original from the 1994 truck it came from with about 118K miles.
The failed transmission had quite a bit of shavings/dust and clutch pieces and don't know if those contaminants could've affected the torque converter.
Any toughs will be appreciated
Thanks for reading!
I'm wondering if would make sense to use the torque converter that I have from the old failed transmission. It's not the original. This torque converter it's painted in blue with a sticker "2001" I'm guessing that's when the previous owner replaced the original converter. Looks a lot like the ones Napa sells.
The one on the truck now should be the original from the 1994 truck it came from with about 118K miles.
The failed transmission had quite a bit of shavings/dust and clutch pieces and don't know if those contaminants could've affected the torque converter.
Any toughs will be appreciated
Thanks for reading!
#13
Junk that old converter, or give it up for a core charge on a new or rebuilt one.
Did you flush the cooler lines before installing the new transmission?
Ford recommends that the actual cooler(s) themselves be replaced, which for the radiator cooler means replacing the radiator. I know some folks try to flush them but you have to be absolutely certain to get all the old junk out. If it were me, before I even connected the cooler lines to the new trans I would have flushed the lines out, bypassed the radiator cooler, and installed a new heavy duty cooler behind the grill.
#14
Did you flush the cooler lines before installing the new transmission?
Ford recommends that the actual cooler(s) themselves be replaced, which for the radiator cooler means replacing the radiator. I know some folks try to flush them but you have to be absolutely certain to get all the old junk out. If it were me, before I even connected the cooler lines to the new trans I would have flushed the lines out, bypassed the radiator cooler, and installed a new heavy duty cooler behind the grill.
Ford recommends that the actual cooler(s) themselves be replaced, which for the radiator cooler means replacing the radiator. I know some folks try to flush them but you have to be absolutely certain to get all the old junk out. If it were me, before I even connected the cooler lines to the new trans I would have flushed the lines out, bypassed the radiator cooler, and installed a new heavy duty cooler behind the grill.
I'll junk the old torque or use it for the core on the new one.
I'm wondering if you guys could point me where to look for the new torque converter. I really don't need a high performance part but something decent. Checked Napa online and they want $299 for one.
This will take me some time (budget) but will get it fixed sometime...Even though had several issues with this truck I like it very much and plan to keep it for a long time.
Thanks Again.....