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Intake manifold gaskets LEAKING! FML

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Old 01-19-2013, 04:21 PM
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Intake manifold gaskets LEAKING! FML


Alright so I just put new intake manifold gaskets on and GUESSWHAT! I’m leaking radiator fluid. It’s on the front of the manifold where the corkgasket is. Now should I take it all off and use something different or can I torchit down more to cause it to stop? Also my freeze plug is leaking. Can I add a newone with out taking the manifold out?
 
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Old 01-19-2013, 04:57 PM
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add your truck's details to your signature so we know what you're talking about-
 
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Old 01-19-2013, 05:48 PM
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What motor? Did you use sealant too? Did you put the gaskets on dry? Cleaned all the matting surfaces? Torque down in the right sequence?
 
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Old 01-20-2013, 12:27 PM
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Originally Posted by 67-F100
What motor? Did you use sealant too? Did you put the gaskets on dry? Cleaned all the matting surfaces? Torque down in the right sequence?
Its a 390 over 30 8 cly. I used sealent. I'm not sure what you mean if i put the gasket on dry...and i cleand the surdace befor putting it on. and i had the righte torque spec.
 
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Old 01-20-2013, 01:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Heston
Its a 390 over 30 8 cly. I used sealent. I'm not sure what you mean if i put the gasket on dry...and i cleand the surdace befor putting it on. and i had the righte torque spec.
Where all did you use sealant?
And did you use any copper coat?
And I asked if you did the right torque sequence, not spec.

I have good luck with using copper coat on the port gaskets and alittle rtv on the cork gaskets and alittle dab in each corner where the cork touches the port gaskets.

Torque sequence is where it matters if you get a good seal or not.
 
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Old 01-20-2013, 03:53 PM
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Do you have the original cast iron boat anchor manifold? Those things are HEAVY!! You will need to remove it, clean the gasket surfaces, and reinstall the gaskets. When you go to reinstall the manifold, get someone to help you gently set it into place. Even better if you can use an engine hoist to position it. The major cause of leaks is that the manifold shifted during installation. You want to set it into place on the first shot. Use an engine hoist and lower the manifold almost all the way down, then start a couple of bolts to guide it down
 
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Old 01-21-2013, 05:11 PM
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I used the right torque sequence...and i had 2 other people to help me put it in place. so it wouldn't move. thing is where the manifold sits (where the valv cover gasket sits) it has a lip like its not going down all the way.
 
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Old 01-21-2013, 05:31 PM
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He is onto a common problem, how to drop those cast iron manifolds in place. I have found that it is a three-man job. Tie the manifold onto a 2x4 spanning the fenders. Have two mooses lower it and and have the third guy guide everything into place.
 
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Old 01-22-2013, 07:16 AM
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Also, don't try to connect the bypass hose as you install the intake. Cut a little off the pipe out the back of the water pump so you can install the hose later.
It's not too unusual to see a little lip at the mating surface of the head and intake.
 
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Old 01-24-2013, 09:32 AM
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I'm try'un ta cover all the bases here so, .... are you sure it's the manifold that leak'un the fluid?

Could it be the PITA water pump hose? Or the large radiator hose that needs to be alittle tighter? Reson I ask is cause there's not a water jacket port on the front of the block. Maybe one of the Head ports is leaking but, .... do you have fluid in yer oil?

Lee
 
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Old 01-24-2013, 11:31 PM
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Might want to opt out of the corks in front and aft, just use a good bead of the right stuff sealant. Blue sealant around the water jackets on heads/intake. Nothing on the intake ports. Be sure the head gasket, intake gaskets locks align. Place intake on check metal pin in front and install the distributor. Then drop the bolts in and go/ following the sequence, torque steps from Ford. Trim away the intake gasket tabs at front /rear of heads with a utility knife. Install the VCs and you should be ok.
 
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