Well i just ordered my new crank seal, or rear main seal, i suppose same difference. Mine lookes to be leaky from what i can see and i forgot to order it with my clutch kit
So now it's coming seperate. I ordered a Timken sleeve and seal. even though there was a fel- pro which has the V shaped gasket above the rear main AND the rear main seal for cheaper, but the seal and sleeve looked to be seperate.
That and there appears to be on the plate holding that V shaped gasket on, a bolt that has rusted and NO socket or wrench seems to fit :P haha
Anyways, the V part doesn't seem to be leaking so would that be fine just leaving it? theres nowhere i can find just the V shaped gasket from what i see, whats that called anyways?

 

The main trick is getting the old one out and the new one in. It is not all that easy to get the seal lip on the crank and drive on as well.

 

so really you just have to fannagle it out with a flat head? no real other way to do it? and then any tips for driving the new one back in?

 

while i haven't removed the rear main from one of our trucks, a common trick i've used on various applications is to drill a small hole in the side of the seal, in the metal part, then drive a sheet metal screw into that hole, and use the screw as a handle to pull it out with vise grips or a prybar. just be careful to keep your screw away from the surface of the crank.
driving the new one in can be done using a large socket if you can find one big enough to go around the shaft and press on the outer of the seal (good luck with that), or by using a 1/2" drive extension as a drift punch with a small hammer, and work your way around the seal, driving it as straight as you can.
as you probably know, you'll want to lubricate the seal before installing it. i use grease, others use engine oil, but just make sure it has something on there so you don't burn out the seal in the first 5 seconds of running.

 

The socket trick won't work unless you have some massive sockets... the crank on these is quite large at the back. Getting it out isn't nearly as bad as going on. It was tricky enough having the housing removed. I think I gave in and removed the housing as it was not going well otherwise, and I am far from a newbie doing this kind of thing.

 

Ah. crap. Guess i'll give that mystery bolt another go, take the housing off, and hope for the best on it's gasket, maybe but some sealant on before i reinstall the housing? Didn't order the rear main kit with the housing gasket

 

I did mine without touching the housing. I think I used a couple sheet metal screws. If you put 2 opposite from each other and use 2 prybars or the like it shouldn't be too bad to pop it out.

The Ford OEM replacement seal/sleeve kit I ordered when I did the job came with a cheap plastic driver tool. It really didn't work all the well though. Not sure which kit you got, but maybe you'll be lucky. If not, take your time working it in. You may be able to get pipe fitting from a box store thats close enough to the right size to work. Even if its just a section of pipe an inch or so long of the right diameter, and then you put a board across the back and drive it in that way.

 

I had to take the housing off.
Tried some self tapping screws in the sleeve and pulling and prying just the seal but it wouldn't budge, so i unbolted the housing and pryed and it popped off. the housing seal is SHOT though... great. So i'll have to order YET ANOTHER seal and wait on it.

 

A birdy told me that the fly wheel bolts need some sealent onthem as oil can leak down the threds giving the impression that rear main is leaking again...???mabey u herd this story...

 

Sealant on the bolts? like what kind? and nah no oil had run over my flywheel, all around the seal. you mean like loctite?
Also guys ordered JUST the rear main from rockauto hoping i wouldn't have to take the housing off, ended up having to take the housing off of course and the housing gasket is shot, half came off with it and the other half stayed, anyone think the ford dealership would have just the housing gasket? if not i'll have to send my rear main back and order a kit with both...

 

Okay guys So got another question, on the BOTTOM of the crank housing, where it's rounded and meets the oil pan gasket, that would be part of the oil pan gasket according to the dealership. and in their diagram it lists liquid gasket. But theres no way im pulling the engine to put a whole new gasket on the oil pan, what would you guys recommend? clear out all the old gasket from the rounded area and coat it thick with sealant?
What kind? etc? also any sealnt on the flywheel bolts? or loctite? any loctite on the pressure plate?

 

Anyone got any suggestions?

 

Silicone from the factory. Don't skimp on the silicone either, use the gasketing black. I pretty much refuse to use the blue for anything any more, generally worthless. No need to disturb the whole pan, just do that area where the housing meets the pan.You can use some loctites for sealant. If you do use thread locker on the pressure plate bolts, be sure to use a grade that does not require heat to release. The blue usually is the one you want, the red is the heat release type.

 

So just the RTV black in the black tube? and lots of it?
Very informative fellro
Thanks a bunch man!

 

Double post!
Does anyone know if the clutch inspection plate NEEDS a gasket? I mean i wouldn't THINK so, but it had one when i took it off and of course it ripped when i took it off, but it was like a cardboard gasket, paper like. anyone know? Just slap some sealant on it and put her back on?