I was trying to put new weather stripping in my doors. But I was having some difficulties with the door not closing all the way. I could only get one click on my striker before the door just stops and won't close any further. I then noticed the middle of the seal has a section that was melted/spliced into the middle of the rest of the seal. This middle section is thicker and stiffer rubber than the rest of the seal. At first I thought it was just a defect in the rubber. But I am now begining to think it needs to be timed on the door somehow but I have no idea how or if it is supposed to be timed.

Has anyone else put them on and had trouble? Anyone have any ideas on what I am doing wrong

Thanks!!

 

What do you mean "timed"?

 

I had the same problem with a big name door seal supplier. doors would not close, rubber stuck out on top of doors! Finally ordered a roll of 1/2 inch x 1/2 inch half round door seal rubber from the softseal company. Maybe not perfect, but i'm satisfied.

 

I have heard that people needed to put the LMC seals on the doors and let them compress for weeks/months before they could get the doors to fully close.

 

Well there is a piece on the seal that was purposely spliced into it and is really different from the rest of the seal. So I was wondering if that part of the seal had to go in a certain spot of the door.

I don't want to do that if I don't have to. But it is good to keep in mind if nothing else works.

Wow really, hmm. I guess now is a good of a time as any if I get them in. Because it will sit all winter. That just doesn't seem right to me I guess.

I might have to just spin the seal around the door and see if anything works. I think my problem lies in the front side of the door. Because I can squeeze the top of the door and it moves and then the seal on the back side of the door is barely engaging the cab. But I can put most of my body weight into pushing on the door and it just simply is not going to close anymore than the one click. I realize I am going to have to readjust my stricker but the door should not be sticking out a good 1/4 inch plus from the cab. I will look into it somemore tomorrow I think.

Thanks!

 

Blaine I recently put weatherstripping (from Dennis Carpenters) on my doors and they did need to be clocked or timed. The cross section is not the same all the way around. If i remember correctly the stiffest section was at the front of the door just below the window where it wraps toward the front under the windshield just above the hinges, this shape was molded in.
Does your weatherstrip have the shape of the style lines molded into it?
Also on mine the glue joint was at the front edge of the door.

 

I also used the the Carpenter seals and they fit great. They do have to be oriented correctly. I believe the seam goes on the bottom edge. Sounds like maybe you door hinges may need adjusting. There is quite a bit of adjustment there if needed. Are you cab supports in good shape? If they are starting to droop the door gaps will also be off.

 

Nice to know. Mine do have the style lines molded in them. I know where you are talking when you say the stiffest section was on the pilar under the windshield. But I can't have that section there and the 2 ends of the seal meet up there as well. The largest or stiffest section of my seal is in the very middle.







I noticed is there a left hand and right hand seal? Almost looks like it when looking at the 2 pictures ^^


I believe I ordered mine from LMC but wouldn't doubt that they are Dennis Carpenter seals. I originally assumed the 2 ends of the seal would go on the bottom side of the door so I taped them in as a mock up but the door wouldn't close all the way. That is when I looked a little closer and thought that the thick section maybe had to go somewhere special. Today I seen that the creases and bends in the seal were ment to line up with the bends and curves of the door. I still don't know exactly what orientation it is supposed to go on the door. My door shouldn't need to be adjusted they were professionally aligned. My cab supports should be as good if not better than factory.

Here's a thread on my pickup:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...o-project.html

The bottom of page 1 and page 2 is the most exciting


Thanks again!!

 

So, what else is new?

All the repro weatherstrips (w/strips) are made just like the Ford "service part replacements" (parts sold at the parts counter) w/strips, are fatter than the originals installed at the factory.

The factory installed w/strips were flat so the doors would close properly. These w/strips were not available at the parts counter, only came on new trucks. Were cheaply made crap, didn't last too long.

So, for many years, people have been complaining about the fitment of genuine Ford and the repro's...and this includes all Ford trucks, not just 1957/60's. Whiz over to other FTE forums, the same problemo exists.

1981: I replaced the crappy flat door w/strips on my 1965 F100 with new Ford w/strips. When I opened the paper bags, I found a sheet of paper containing the following FoMoCo instructions:

After gluing the weatherstrip on, use masking tape to retain it in place, especially at the corners. Close the door till it just touches the striker plate (it may be necessary to tape the door in this position).

Remove dome lamp bulb, if applicable.

1957/60 F100/1100 = B9TB-8120530-A (replaced B7C-8120530-A) Right & B9TB-8120531-A (replaced B7C-8120531-A) Left .. Door Weatherstrips.

Carpenter's part number: B7C-8120530-PR (PR: sold as a pair).

 

My seals, I think from Carpenters, had to settle down for a week or so to fit right. But they do.

 

Blaine; I just went out and checked my w/strip The ends meet just below the style line on the back side of the door about where the latch mechanism is (sorry for the misinformation earlier). When I was putting them in I thought there was definitely a right and left seal. I did have to let them settle in with the door closed as far as it would go for a day or two, before final adjustment of the latch/striker plate.
Good luck in your quest.

 

That's ok. After my last post I looked at them again and was kind of thinking with the bends in the one very end of the seal matched up better being on the back side of door. And that is about where the two ends would end up if that thick part is under window. Atleast the two ends meet up on the back side of the door. Because being on the front side it is almost impossible to reach in there as it is without fighting two ends of the seal.

Tomorrow I am planning on tackling this task and getting them both glued in. Hopefully I will have something to update with tomorrow.

Thanks Again Everyone!!

We'll see if I get anywhere tomorrow.

 

Well I got both seals in on Sat. and Sun. I will post some pictures later.

Neither door close all the way. Right now I just set the strikers all the way back that I could and closed the door the one click. I could get the passenger door to close a little more than the drivers but not enough for 2 clicks. I have to put more adhesive in a couple spots. One is the front of the drivers door. I think I might have to get a little hose to get under the seal though. It is to tight to get the tube of adhesive in between the door and fender.

 

Well I got both seals in on Sat. and Sun. I will post some pictures later.

Neither door close all the way. Right now I just set the strikers all the way back that I could and closed the door the one click. I could get the passenger door to close a little more than the drivers but not enough for 2 clicks. I have to put more adhesive in a couple spots. One is the front of the drivers door. I think I might have to get a little hose to get under the seal though. It is to tight to get the tube of adhesive in between the door and fender.

 

Blaine thats good news and deserves repeating!
Seriously I think you will see them relax enough to finally readjust the doors correctly.