Thats what came with my 2300 Pinto motor. People tell me thats to much carb for my stock engine, oh, it has a header. Do I need to rejet or change anything else. I want to run the stock cam...thanks

 

You should be ok. You will run on the 1st 2 barrels of the 4 for 99% of the time, which will flow about what the factory carb could. And, when you want to go faster, quickly, you have more capacity available.
tom

 

It will work. I think. I'm pretty sure that I've seem them on motors before. Personally, I wouldn't do it.

I ran a 2000 in a dunebuggy for years. It had a 2bbl Autolite on it. The carb was originally on 390 v8. It was the big one...the throttle plates were the size of half-dollars. IT increased the bottom end and gve me 7,000 rpm. Man, that thing would run.

BTW, totally stock.

I put the same carb on a 1752cc Honda Prelude motor and it had a busted power valve and a boggy bottom end (it could have been the power-valve). But, I then put on an Autolite off'N a 302. It had throttle plates about the size of a quarter. It lugged and screamed both...although it didn't lug as well as the Pinto motor did.

Both motors were stock...except for the smog controls (not needed in the dunes). The Pinto had headers and the Honda had the stock manifold and about 3' of exhaust, w/a home built chamber muffler (the name/type escapes me). I built it myself as I wanted it to be 2" thick (I got tired of having to let off the gas to talk when going down the beach, or up a hill).

In the mini-stock races...the 500 Holley type carbs pretty much rule. You can do better, but a $25 junk yard carb will run w/anything out there.

 

What are you going to do w/the beast?

 

I recently acquired an Offenhauser Dual Port 360 intake manifold I want to use on my 2.3L 1979 Mustang Ghia with the non-OD 4-spd (soon to be T-5, hopefully) transmission.

Do you have any pictures of your setup? I'd like to see how the throttle linkage was changed, if any, and any other tweaks that might need to be done.

I plan on rebuilding my 2.3L soon and want to do the conversion while the engine is out of the car.

 

The 2.3L gets a bad rep as a performance engine but in reality it's used by many oval track racers in Mini Stock class race cars. On a street car such as yours I would go out to a pick-n-pull and look for a Ford Ranger PU from the 90's. What you want is the camshaft and Roller Rocker arms. The cam is better then any of the early cams the 2.3L got when it came with a carb and the roller rockers improve performance and MPG! The cams swap without issues as long as your cam bearings are in good shape. The bearings are not hard to change, I did them myself but the head was off the engine and on my work bench.

If you have a stock exhaust manifold get a better one like a true header!


You can even convert to a Turbo 2.3L engine out of a late 80's T-Bird or Mustang, of Merkur XR4ti. Once installed you can get 220-240 HP using stock parts with simple mods. I know one drag racer that uses the 2.3L Turbo in a Mustang that makes over 500 HP but not much remains original other then the block & crank.

 

One note about the roller cam followers. The valve stem diameter was decreased at some point, and the followers have narrower tips. You have to get followers that match your stem diameter. I've thought about just swapping the cam for a performance boost in my old truck. Less friction, and I think the grind is a bit more aggressive.
tom

 

I knew this but forgot to mention it. The easy was to spot the correct ones is the later "narrow" rockers are made from stamped steel and the early "correct" rockers are cast or made using the powered metal process.

 

Thanks for the info. Does anyone have, or know where I can find, pictures of this type of setup? If examples are out there, I prefer not reinventing the wheel. If throttle cable changes are not needed, I'd like to know that, too.

I'm looking at Schoenfeld for my tube header and was planning on using a Crane Cams 268H grind to match the operating (1500 - 5500 RPM) range of the Offenhauser intake manifold. Boring and stroking to 2.5L - 2.6L is also under consideration.

If you'd like to read up on what has been discussed so far regarding this topic, you can check out my "Horsepower" thread question at FourEyedPride.

 

There is a version of the 2.3L that was stroked to 2.5L! You can just use the short block with what ever head you plan on using.

 

Yep. I found a "calculator" that shows what you wind up with when using bore x stroke numbers. It's fun to play with, just to see what combinations can be made. This is the one I found at Schoenfeld's when I was looking at a header:

Engine Displacement Calculator

IIRC, the stock bore x stroke of the 2.3L (non-turbo) is 3.780" x 3.1300"

To get to 2.5L, I need a bore x stroke of 3.780" x 3.4055"

To get to 2.6L, I need a bore x stroke of 3.810" x 3.4780"

To get to 2.7L, I need a bore x stroke of 3.820" x 3.5940"

Whether the stock 2.3L block is capable of that much stroke is an entirely different topic, but at least I know what numbers I need to reach.

I think 2.6L would probably be my self-imposed maximum with 2.5L being the safest. Anything in-between is entirely real-world streetable and potentially doable if the builder pays attention to detail.